Thread: walker-turner lathe

Originally Posted by Kristy Ingram

With the tailstock, is the groove in the shaft supposed to be on the offside? There is a screw in the working side that prevents it from turning the other way. What is this for?. The bolt on the offside, is this a tensioning bolt or something?

At a guess, I'd say that screw was placed there aftermarket by some previous owner. Without actually looking at another Walker-Turner lathe, I can't say for sure.

Forgive me if I'm being overly simplistic, but you did say you're a total newb, so I'll be as clear as possible... When mounting a piece between centres, the tailstock is set up like this:

• nut on the base of the tailstock is loosened
• the tailstock assembly slid up along the bed until the centre touches the wood
• the nut retightened
• the locking lever loosened
• the handwheel adjusted so the centre applies firm pressure to the wood
• the locking lever retightened

Ideally, before using for the first time, the tailstock should be removed completely so you have access to the full length of the bed to scrape off any gunk/lumps built up on it and then give it a good squirt of WD-40 or similar and a light wet sand with some wet'n'dry sandpaper. The nut/bolt and the bottom of the tailstock could probably do with a good clean, too.

This is just so the tailstock slides up/down the bed fairly freely when being moved as you're usually holding the wood blank in place with one hand while moving the tailstock up with t'other. No sense making it harder than needs be. (Says this lazy auld sod. )

I ran the motor today and it doesn't make any bad noises. The headstock makes a little but that may be from lack of lubrication, or the belt being a bit knackered.

That's good news. FWIW, the little "pots" on either side of the top of the head are oilers. They may need stripping down and cleaning too, they tend to clog up with sawdust getting in there. Even if the bearings are on their way out, it will be worthwhile replacing 'em. Unlike some new lathes which are more or less "Bic disposables." Sometimes age is an advantage.

The toolrest had swung around to that side when the kids played with it, but now I know what it's for!!

If you have a look at the top of the tool-rest it may give you an idea as to how well the lathe has been treated in the past. If it's full of dings and gouges, then whoever used it last was a rough nut. They're usually a sign that someone didn't know the "correct" way to use his tools and has had a lot of serious catches, banging the tool into the tool-rest. Because the tool needs to be slid left or right on the toolrest (it should always be resting on it while working) such dings tend to snag the tool... a quick flatten with a file makes a world of difference.

If the toolrest is in pretty good nick, then for all it may look rough now, it was well cared for back when it was last in regular use.

I bought this at our local second hand shop with the tools pictured. There is also another tool zippy tied to the frame near the motor for some reason, maybe to lift the motor when changing the belt??

Quite possibly. I've done similar at times. Or it could be for some obscure reason no-one here could guess in a million years. Every turner has their quirks...

I bought it for my husband who has looked at it about 4 times and really wanted it. I'm going to try and get it all together by the end of June.
How do I tell what size it is, as I see each lathe has an inches measurement with the model number. What do I have to measure to make sure I get the right size drive and tail spur??

Anyone have any idea what it might be worth?? I paid $90 for the lot.

I'd happily pay $90- for just the tools. I've spotted one or two in their that I suspect are good quality carbon steel and well worth that!

As for size, I ignore model no's. Sorry. There are two main measurements relevant to lathes. Well... three, actually. But from the looks of that you can fit any size motor (HP-wise) that you want!

"Swing-over bed," which simply means how wide a blank can be mounted on the lathe. Different manufacturers measure this differently; some measure from the centre axis of the headstock to the bed (ie. the radius of the blank) and give that as the swing-over bed, while others measure the diameter of the blank and report that as the figure. So, one manufacturer may say it's a 6" swing, while another claims it's 12", yet they're talking about the same physical size.

"Bed length." Again, there're two ways of measuring this. The total length of the bed from the base of the headstock to the end of the bed and the same measurement less the width of the tailstock. ie. the length of the longest piece of wood that can actually fit!

In both cases, one's how big a piece of wood actually fits and t'other is a mfr's exaggeration.

And all of this is irrelevant to the type of drive/tail spur you want. Just measure the diameter of the hole... if it's around 17-19mm then it's a #2 morse taper. #1 MT's are a lot smaller and #3's are a lot bigger. I'd say #2's are the de facto standard for lathes that size.

All in all, I think that you've made a good buy and your hubby should be a happy chappy. There are little things that an experienced turner would worry about (eg. do the centres "kiss" when the tailstock is brought right up to the headstock?) but frankly, they have less to do with how well a lathe will turn in general than how well the professional can "push the envelope" on it.

We can all be tool snobs.

Skew, you took the time and patience to summarise very clearly the content of lesson 1 of the beginner turners course I am taking. I am very impressed by your commitment and generosity. It's people like you making forums worth joining. Congratulations!

Sorry to interrupt your information flow Kristy, but Skew has provided a crash course in lathe basics here worth applauding. I have read his various advice and comments with great interest since joining this great forum.

I bought a new Leady lathe from Bruce Leadbetter on Friday and he gave me (also a newby to turning) a quick crash course while I was there. Whilst this was very beneficial I am also soaking up every little bit of beginner's info that I can. So, much appreciated SC.

By the way, I'll tell you what my user name means if you tell me about yours.

Also, just as a matter of interest and as already noted in another post, Bruce sold me a great set of 7x very long & very heavy HSS lathe chisels - all about 600mm long. I also have a full set of English Record and Marples chisels, but these make them look like kids' toys.

I had recently bought an older ex-school Woodfast on the original cabinet-stand, and have almost finished a quick rebuild of it - new bearings, belt & tidy up etc. I'm so impressed with the Leady I'm going to sell the Woodfast - there always seems to be a market for them.

I've been corrected on the guide screw in the tailstock... apparently there are quite a few lathes that are built that way for ease of construction.

Sorry for that bit of misinformation.

My name? Well... you know the Skew Chisel? Let's just say that even when you know how to use one, you'll still have the odd accidental catch. Especially when showing off to a newb about just "how safe and easy to use they are once you have practice."

I must thank you also for taking the time to explain everything. Up til now I had no particular interest in woodworking whatsoever, I only bought the lathe for my hubby!! But after reading all the info given and what I've read elsewhere I think I may get more use out of it than he will!! If nothing else I might impress him with my newly gained knowledge. I know Peter has some large logs of Swamp Mahogany he's been dying to turn into something. I hope I can bring it to a decent enough working condition before the end of June. The physical part doesn't worry me, and with advise from people like you the knowledge shouldn't be too much drama either. Keeping it hidden from him will be the big one!

Regards

Kristy

I dunno how the small screw would facilitate construction, especially since it has a locking lever on the back. I suspect it's a DIY modification. The only reason I can think of for doing this is that the normal locking lever (the thing on the opposite side of the tailstock) is defective. The locking lever isn't a very high-tech device, and a replacement may be available in Oz. In USA, I've dealt with an OEM supplier called Reid Supply Company (www.reidsupply.com), but shipping & handling for a small order can be a bear; and international orders have a minimum of US$25, with an additional $25 for orders under US$500. Alternatively, any defect in the locking lever may be repairable.

The tailstock seems to have cross-slide capability. That would be for some types of eccentric turning. Quite a ways down the road for you or your hubby, I'd guess. (And for me , too) To place it in the proper location, slide the tailstock all the way to the headstock and align it with the centre of the headstock.

Many motor arrangements like this use the weight of the motor to maintain tension on the belt. Not my favourite way of doing things, as belt vibration can assert itself under certain conditions. I'd add a bracket to lock the motor position if vibration seems to be an issue.

Here are some dimensions for Morse taper sockets (MT#, hole diameter at large end):
MT0 0.3561" (9.04mm)
MT1 0.475" (12.07mm)
MT2 0.700" (17.78mm)
MT3 0.938" (23.83mm)
The actual socket diameter may vary slightly from these dimensions because it's a taper fit, but easy enough to distinguish one from the other.

AU$90 for the whole lot? Almost robbery. Good score, ma'am.

Joe

Originally Posted by Kristy Ingram

I must thank you also for taking the time to explain everything. Up til now I had no particular interest in woodworking whatsoever, I only bought the lathe for my hubby!! But after reading all the info given and what I've read elsewhere I think I may get more use out of it than he will!! If nothing else I might impress him with my newly gained knowledge.

I'll warn you now... there are two types of people: once that first piece comes off, you can either shrug, put it down and walk away saying "well, that killed some time"... or you're hooked for life. Even if, a few weeks later, you look back on that first piece and think "Ugh! I didn't really make that 'orrible thing, did I?"

We've a few lady turners who are regulars on this board and their work is up there with the rest of the blokes. Good turning's a matter of finesse, not bludgeoning with a hammer.

I know Peter has some large logs of Swamp Mahogany he's been dying to turn into something.

[sigh] Pity you're so far away, else I'd offer my services in getting it running and giving hubby a crash course.

For a small fee involving swamp mahogany.

I hope I can bring it to a decent enough working condition before the end of June. The physical part doesn't worry me, and with advise from people like you the knowledge shouldn't be too much drama either. Keeping it hidden from him will be the big one!

It shouldn't be too hard, it looks to be complete enough and in good condition, a good scrub and bit of TLC will bring her back to lovely condition. Good luck on keeping it a surprise!




Before you get your hands too dirty, could I recommend that the first thing you do is clean up the oilers and remove the belt? While the oilers are off, it won't hurt to give a squirt or three of WD-40 (or similar) into the holes the oilers screw into and turn the headstock shaft by hand a few times, just to make sure there's no "grinding." It'd also be a good idea to grab the faceplate and see if you can move the shaft side-ways, up'n'down or in'n'out at all. Then do the same test with the pulley at the other end.

Finally, replace the oilers and top 'em up with a light machine oil at first, then give her another few turns by hand to lube the bearings before replacing the belt. By the time you've cleaned the rest of her up, the light oil should've penetrated right through the bearings and they'll be ready to roll. (No pun intended. Or was it? The mind can be a tricksy thing at times... )

If there's the "grinding" I mentioned or side-slop in either end of the shaft, well... it's not a good thing as it could mean the bearings are on their last legs. Nothing to worry about, but it's best to know now so you can be prepared to either replace 'em later or upgrade to another lathe. With luck, any grinding may be just lack of oil and will go away after oiling, or even better you'll discover nothing is wrong and know the bearings are perfectly OK.

Originally Posted by joe greiner

I dunno how the small screw would facilitate construction, especially since it has a locking lever on the back. I suspect it's a DIY modification. The only reason I can think of for doing this is that the normal locking lever (the thing on the opposite side of the tailstock) is defective.

Joe

Joe.
Using the same slot for both the guide and lock is to facilitate construction. Older lathes, in particular metal turning, always had a guide for the quill and an independant lock possibly to avoid the quill rotating while drilling.

Originally Posted by

Joe.
Using the same slot for both the guide and lock is to facilitate construction. Older lathes, in particular metal turning, always had a guide for the quill and an independant lock possibly to avoid the quill rotating while drilling.

Ah so. Then the lock lever on the W-T probably doesn't have a little nub to engage a far-side slot, just binds against the shaft. And the screw merely restricts rotation of the shaft.

Thanks, .

Joe

Yep.

Decided to draw a diagram so I could show the measurements properly. I took the belt off and locked the pulley with the locking pin. The shaft moves in and out about 1mm, and the faceplate turns about 21/4 inches. I guess this can't be good but hopefully just the bearing?????

That makes sense to me as when you wind the bolt in and out(or the locking lever?) it doesn't wind anything in and out inside the shaft cavity. Only when you tighten it up a bit does it stop the shaft from sliding in and out.

Kristy

This is called a "gap-bed lathe." The "swing" is defined, however, by the distance to the main part of the bed; now usually doubled by most manufacturers (i.e. maximum diameter) as Skew mentioned earlier.

It looks like it might be a #1 Morse taper according to your measurements; and could make sense for the apparent size.

The end play in the shaft may be correctable by collars secured with setscrews (aka grub screws). I have an antique Delta that works that way.

I don't understand what you mean by "faceplate turns about 2 1/4 inches." Can you clarify?

Locking pin: If there are multiple holes in the pulley, the shaft can be indexed at regular intervals for a variety of decorative effects.

Did you find anything of value at the owwm link I cited earlier? Granted it'd be daunting to explore all of the info, but you might find a manual or catalog data for this particular machine.

Joe

Originally Posted by Kristy Ingram

Only when you tighten it up a bit does it stop the shaft from sliding in and out.

That's exactly what it's supposed to do.

The morse taper is only held in by pressure from the wood (that's why it's tapered) and to remove it you slide a metal rod through from the hand-wheel end to tap it out.

Assuming the headstock end is also a morse taper, the drive-spur is removed in the same way.