Thread: WIP: deep hollowing

F&E, I turn away the 'too proud' epoxy and turquoise, with Oland type cutters. I purchase those that have 5% and 10% carbon added. It cuts the turquoise/epoxy without need of often sharpening. My other HSS cutters dulled after about 5 seconds of cutting.

Well, I'm gonna go for the rustic look. With all that branchwood exposed I've decided it would look silly to finesse the filling.

Will just epoxy the branch/knots to hold the b*ggers in place while I do my worst.

But thanks to all for bending your mind to the problem.

btw, I hate turquoise tinted epoxy with a vengeance ... though thanks Al for the spelling ;-} ... (and do you post on AAW? I guess there could well be more than one woodturner Al in Texas but just wondered).

Originally Posted by rsser

Lose the micrometer?

. There was a bit of in my ssentence too, you know?

Originally Posted by OGYT

F&E, I turn away the 'too proud' epoxy and turquoise, with Oland type cutters. I purchase those that have 5% and 10% carbon added. It cuts the turquoise/epoxy without need of often sharpening. My other HSS cutters dulled after about 5 seconds of cutting.

Thanks. Sharper is the answer, then.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Since Joe and Hughie mentioned it a few months ago, I got addicted to epoxy caffeine... A drawback I found is that, being harder than the wood, turning it even is difficult, if you are really finicky you notice that it stays a few microns proud. Any suggestions?

I haven't noticed this problem. I mix my epoxy-and-coffee mortar heavy on the coffee, at least as much dry coffee grounds by volume as the already-mixed epoxy. The softer coffee probably degrades the strength to near that of the wood. Turquoise or metal filings/powder would be another story, of course.

Joe

It's me on AAW, Ern.

looking good Ern

Ern,

I go past your street each Wednesday morning
on my way to my woodturning club activities.
If you think your wood is likely to break up please
avoid any turning on that day in case I get a
broken windscreen when passing.
In case of damage I will give you an "International
Roast" to add to the coffee you have used.

Allan

________________________________________

I once stole a calendar - and got 12 months.

LOL.

Have put some coffee tinted epoxy in a couple of the holes; more tomorrow. Will see how they hold during hollowing. I think (hope) they'll give notice before vacating.

Which club btw?

Fascinating thread Ern. Watching with rapt attention - so much to learn - so little time..... Many thanks for sharing.

wayne

Pleasure Wayne.

And btw, happy May Day to all the comrades ;-}

Well the filling is taking two layers. The coffee grounds thicken the epoxy nicely (and improve the smell out of sight) so it's not running away down the second branch voids.

Should be hard and ready to go tomorrow. I need to round over the shoulder a little and take some fine cuts down the length to get rid of the chip-outs.

I must've been asleep at the wheel as the tenon is only marginally larger than the Powergrips fully tightened so in idle moments I've been pondering 'what if?'.

Axe wedges in the tenon? Will prob only widen the bottom.
Alum flashing for packing? May lead to slippage.

What does the brains trust think?

Originally Posted by rsser

........I must've been asleep at the wheel as the tenon is only marginally larger than the Powergrips fully tightened so in idle moments I've been pondering 'what if?'.

Axe wedges in the tenon? Will prob only widen the bottom.
Alum flashing for packing? May lead to slippage.

What does the brains trust think?

Ern
If the tenon is 4 inches for powergrips and the block is a waste block can you screw on a face plate ring and hold it that way??

The screw holes should disapear with the waste block.

Hi David,

Yeah, I could, but screws in softish end grain are a risk IMHO.

Yup, that is the main idea of power grips or shark jaws..... to get a good grip of a lot of firmly attached timber.