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Thread: Wipe On Poly

  1. #1
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    Default Wipe On Poly

    Hi All,
    I think I may have had a reasonable buy at the Markets this morning.
    Minwax Wipe on Poly 473Ml. - 1 Pint, Clear Gloss.

    My question is, when I open the container, what kind of Shelf Life does this have.

    Also bought Minwax Tung Oil Finish, & the same question applies.

    Had a look on Google, but no satisfaction there.

    Dated 24 - 9 - 2000, but of course it is unopened, but has a Plastic Lid.
    Shake it & it seems very Watery, so doesn't seem to have deteriorated in any way.

    Have heard of putting the Contents into a Wine Bladder, where you can squeeze the Air out

    All comments wood be appreciated.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by issatree View Post
    Hi All,
    I think I may have had a reasonable buy at the Markets this morning.
    Minwax Wipe on Poly 473Ml. - 1 Pint, Clear Gloss.

    My question is, when I open the container, what kind of Shelf Life does this have.

    Also bought Minwax Tung Oil Finish, & the same question applies.

    Had a look on Google, but no satisfaction there.

    Dated 24 - 9 - 2000, but of course it is unopened, but has a Plastic Lid.
    Shake it & it seems very Watery, so doesn't seem to have deteriorated in any way.

    Have heard of putting the Contents into a Wine Bladder, where you can squeeze the Air out

    All comments wood be appreciated.
    Hi Issatree,
    I have a quart can I have had for 2 years or more
    and It has been opened, I think it is still ok.
    I could, nt find a use by date but It has a web site
    For info www.woodfinish.com.au
    Hope this is of some help, oh by the way it says
    DO NOT USE IF PREGNENT!!!
    Cheers smiife

  4. #3
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    Default

    I have a tin that has been open for a number of years and is still fine. I haven't used much of it. It's the oxygen that does the damage and like a lot of these things there seems to be a critical point where if you use another 10 ml it goes to jelly really quickly. I should just use it up.
    "We must never become callous. When we experience the conflicts ever more deeply we are living in truth. The quiet conscience is an invention of the devil." - Albert Schweizer

    My blog. http://theupanddownblog.blogspot.com

  5. #4
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    Default

    Did you get it for free? Then a very good win. I am not sure on the shelf life of the product but have been using one for a couple of years now. Same result as the first time I opened the can.

  6. #5
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    Default

    What does the damage more is letting pieces of "set" WOP drop into the container. It seems to start the reaction to set the rest.

    I have been using Minwax WOP in Gloss & Satin for at least ten years with pretty good results but I have had quite a few tins go off - particularly with the screw on tin lids. I believe that was because more "set" material was able to fall into the tin plus the threads bind after a while making the seal less air tight, no matter how meticuluous I was at keeping the threads clean etc.

    Minwax WOP does yellow considerable with age - so light colours don't look so good ten years on.

  7. #6
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    Default WOP.

    Hi to you all,
    The Stall holders had quite an amount of this for Sale. Satin, Gloss & a few others, & the same for the Tung Oil.
    As I said, I Googled it, & on some other Forum, they said it was $US 17.
    I Hummed & Harred, & then realising the Date, the Lady said " You have 2 for $5 " at which I took.
    Well I am now rather encouraged to have a go with them both.
    Our Wood Club Members helped out as well with Instructions too.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  8. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    What does the damage more is letting pieces of "set" WOP drop into the container. It seems to start the reaction to set the rest.

    I have been using Minwax WOP in Gloss & Satin for at least ten years with pretty good results but I have had quite a few tins go off - particularly with the screw on tin lids. I believe that was because more "set" material was able to fall into the tin plus the threads bind after a while making the seal less air tight, no matter how meticuluous I was at keeping the threads clean etc.

    Minwax WOP does yellow considerable with age - so light colours don't look so good ten years on.
    I also suspect when the volume drops the air gets in and starts a reaction too.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hughie View Post
    I also suspect when the volume drops the air gets in and starts a reaction too.
    Hughie Ive had near full tins go off - but they had the old screw on tin lid.

  10. #9
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    Default Another Way ?.

    Hi All,
    Thanks for your input.
    Seem like it maybe an Idea to do the Wine Bladder thing.
    My Mate wood use them when he used Danish Oil, but that was many years ago now.
    Don't drink, so will have to ask around, he he he.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  11. #10
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    I have had Tung oil finish get jellylike and added mineral spirits, shook up and used. It hardened OK on the bowls. I have even used lumpy Tung oil applied with a rag with good results. The liquid gets rubbed in lumps stay on rag.

    I have had poly get a skin on top, poked a hole with a screw driver added mineral spirits and used, also with good results.

    I have used regular poly floor finish applied with a rag with bowl the turning on the lathe with good results. Partly used cans, free.

    There are cans of gas with a nozzle that can be sprayed into partly used cans of paint to drive out oxygen. They are advertised and sold for this purpose. The stuff used to blow off electronic equipment would work, as would propane. The propane is flammable. Propane is used as a propellant in some spray paints in the US.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

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