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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    287

    Default Wood Lathe restoration

    Hi guys, i picked this lathe up a few weeks ago. It has been sitting in an old Fullas shed for years slowly rusting away, thankfully it's only surface rust and it's quite solid underneath. Apart from starting to buff it up with a wire brush attachment on my power drill and a sander I haven't accomplished a whole lot.
    I'm not 100% sure on how far I should go, do I need to completely dismantle it in order to paint it properly? Can I just use a rust primer? What top coat paint do I use?
    There also seems to be a few bit's missing, can anyone tell me whats missing and the best way of replacing them? Thanks very much for any input.








    All the locking Mechanism is missing, do I need proper Asmac parts or can I improvise?


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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    BELL POST HILL, 3215
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    2,332

    Default The Lathe.

    Hi Kiwi75,
    I woodn't have much faith in the wire brush, but, what I wood use is, say 150 Grit Paper, & some Kerosene, should the trick, & of course a lot of Elbow Grease.
    Know nothing about Painting, although the Lathe looks a bit like an Older Woodfast.
    Measure inside the bed, between the Rails, Work out the Thread on the Spindle, & that will give you a start.
    Have Fun.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Flinders Shellharbour
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    5,693

    Default

    How far you go depends on how thorough you want to be.
    As to paint you could use a undercoat, if so get one with rust inhibitor in it. I would probably just go for top coat with the rust inhibitor. As Issatree mentioned you probably need to get more of the rust off before the top coat. Depending on where you live in NZ you might have an on going issue with rust due to the salt in the air . if your on the coast I would give it 2-3 coats and let them dry thoroughly before applying the next coat.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
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    Default

    Cheers Bro, I'm in Kerikeri so yip, pretty humid rust growing weather up here. I think I'll ask about a top coat with a rust inhibitor at my local paint supplier. thanks mate.

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Banora point,NSW.
    Posts
    172

    Default Lathe

    I had an identical looking lathe until last year, sold under the Axminster PowerTools label (uk), bought it about mid nineties. The castings had been made abroad (Taiwan,china?) and it was outfitted in the uk, there will be many identical looking lathes around from that era.
    the spindle thread on mine was 1"x12 and mt2 in headstock and tail stock.

    Cam

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    287

    Default

    Cool thanks for the info. So what's the procedure with the 150grit and Kerosene? Just sand it then rub it down with the kerosene and a rag?

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    BELL POST HILL, 3215
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    Posts
    2,332

    Default The Kero.

    Hi Again,
    Sorry, as I did not explain myself.
    The 150 & Kero are for the Bed of The Lathe, but making sure you do underneath The Bed as well, & I suppose in some places it could be used as well.
    Bottoms of the Banjo & the Tailstock, Tool Rests, Turning Tools etc. then wipe down with a rag.

    When I bought My " Tough " Lathe, every night I wood lather it with a 3 of kero & 1 of e/oil, & it was all gone next day, & I did this for quite a long time.
    So being Cast Iron it just soaked it up. I think it made for a better Lathe, but that is only my opinion.
    Regards,
    issatree.
    Have Lathe, Wood Travel.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Pluto
    Posts
    72

    Default

    If you have an angle grinder try a medium duty cup brush (aobut $5). The stiffness of the cup bristles and the speed of the grinder will polish it up like a new dime in short order.
    You should have a "rust converter" available at any automotive store (here Pepboys, AutoZone, Napa, etc). It is used for auto restoration and almost all carry it under various names (RustMort, Osphos, etc). It chemically changes rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate and most do not require removal (other than 0000 steel wool) prior to painting/priming. It will get down into any pits or hidden areas and convert/kill the rust. About $14 a pint here but that would be enough for a half dozen projects the size of the lathe.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Flinders Shellharbour
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    Default damp

    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi75 View Post
    Cheers Bro, I'm in Kerikeri so yip, pretty humid rust growing weather up here. I think I'll ask about a top coat with a rust inhibitor at my local paint supplier. thanks mate.
    Kerikeri, definitely three coats and will most likely be battling surface rust on all the unpainted areas as a matter of course, you might want to try a rust preventative in between uses if you dont get to use the lathe often. Mr Dad used to use a solvent based [ any solvent will do ie meths, petrol etc ] recipe with 10% lanolin but probably you can get away with WD40 or similar.
    Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso


  11. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    13,315

    Default

    The lathe I restored I pretty much took the whole thing apart. I tried quite a few things to remove the rust and what worked the best for me was an item called Strip it disk(post 57) that attaches to an angle grinder.

    https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...=134509&page=4

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    287

    Default

    Thanks for the cool thread to read Cristos, very informative. I bought a bottle of Rust converter and some etching primer today, so I'll have a few pics to share by the end of the week hopefully.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Australian (in exile) - UK
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    468

    Default

    If you are brave enough to do a full strip down nothing (for me) beats 8 parts water 1 part stock feed molasses for de rusting. It's cheap and very effective, if a bit messy. it takes up to a week to cure heavily rusted parts but much less for light rust.

    Ive used it fre everything from small hardware to engine blocks and once did a ute chassis in the stuff in a tank made of timber and plastic sheet.

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
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    5,713

    Default

    Im in for the ride here to follow your progress. I have a few lathes to restore myself.


    Dave the turning cowboy

    turning wood into art

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Albury Well Just Outside
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveTTC View Post
    Im in for the ride here to follow your progress. I have a few lathes to restore myself......
    Where's your work in progress thread?

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Horsham Victoria
    Posts
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    Default

    As soon as ì start working on even just one of them

    Have one of the twins for next 12 months. Will be an interesting year


    Dave TTC
    Turning Wood Into Art

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