Thread: Woodcut end grain hollowing tool

Two things spring to mind:
1/ Is the cutting edge sharp? If not or in doubt get a diamond paddle and sharpen it. Do not sharpen on a bench grinder
2/ Is the regulator/governor/depth of cut gauge open enough? Perhaps you need to open it up a bit and then test. Testing it is best done an open bowl. Rotate the tool A/C wise so that the brass governor is initially rubbing on the wood and then rotate the tool C/wise until it starts to cut. If it is grabby then close the gap a bit.

+1 to Brendan's post. If it's a forerunner of the Proforme. Pic below.

If that's so, also hard use can bend the cap and partially close the gap with the cutter. If the cap is brass as on the Proforme it can be removed and gently straightened in a vice, and the bottom edge facing the cutter side carefully filed flat if necessary.

But usually dust=blunt or not enough gap (and some woods -> dust regardless).

The Shepid loop cutter does need some fettling with a diamond file when you get them.

You can see the markings on the cutter that need to be cleaned up to give a cleaner cutting edge.

As the others have said once cleaned up setting the overhead gauge is the next part that is critical and this is a lot of trial and error, but opening it a little bit at a time to find what works best for you.

Practice on green timber till you find the flow.

OK, thanks for the info.
The replacement cutter I just stuck in and got stuck into the job.
Not sharp from manufacture?? I'll give it a touch up with my diamond paddle.
Also I'll try the gap adjustment too.
And I'll check the guide for flatness.

I'll let you know how I go.

Thanks for the input. I had used this successfully some years ago, but just can't get it working. Maybe I'm too impatient.

Lyle.

You're entitled to be impatient ;-)

Also play around with tool presentation as suggested. These designs usually have a sweet spot.

I'm not getting the long curlies I used to. But that was in green timber. I'm using dry camphour laurel into end grain.
I haven't found that sweet spot yet. I'll keep trying.
Lyle.

End-grain won't give you long curlies with dry timber. If your end-grain shavings show tight corrugations and are short in length you're on the money. Fluffy shavings means open the gap a bit unless it's a finishing cut.

Gap setting is particular; a tiny change has a big effect.

Ahhhh.... I understand the corrugations. I get them every now and then.
I must concentrate now to look for them and remember what the tool was doing at that point. Then repeat!
Thanks mate.

Goodo.

And wot Brendan said. If you think of this tool as a bowl gouge but with the bevel on top ... start your cut with the tip dropped a bit and rotated a bit anticlockwise. Contact with the cap and then raise and rotate the tip clockwise til you feel the cut start to happen.

And one thing will throw all this out. That's if your cuts have produced a spiral or out of true surface. Happens quickly enough cos the cap (or bevel, your guiding surface) follows and then exaggerates prior deviations. If that's happened you have to take the cap out of the game for the moment. At a minimum, start back closer to the rim or the centre, maybe open the gap a bit, contact with the cutting edge only and re-establish a true line just by your muscle strength and fine coordination. Make sense?

Thanks Ern.
I have an early mark from work this arvo, so I might be able to get into the shed and give it another try.
Lyle.

I also find that you have to rotate the tool to the left a little bit until it starts to cut . It can be a little frustrating if you haven't used it for a while .

Agree with Rodent. A bit of anticlockwise on the shaft gives you more of a shearing cut; cuts cleaner and the edge lasts a bit longer.

End grain is hard on these kind of edges and a regular lick with a diamond paddle keeps it keen. But you get to a point where the rounded over edge needs more than a lick.