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Thread: wow now that a warp
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9th January 2014, 09:26 AM #16
It hasn't really been drying very long if you only turned it on the 20th dec. I'd give it a bit longer. Maybe the wood sealer on the outside has made the drying uneven. Just packing in a box with shavings around to slow the drying might be better. Is it hollowed at all or just the outside shape?
That said I love warped things. Might have to get me some of this wood.anne-maria.
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9th January 2014, 12:38 PM #17Jim
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I wouldn't want to encourage you TL but it did put me in mind of a politician making a decision.
Cheers,
Jim
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9th January 2014, 01:07 PM #18anne-maria.
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9th January 2014, 01:10 PM #19
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16th January 2014, 08:03 PM #20Jim
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The shed's been off limits for the last few days because of the heat. Son rang up today reminding me he'd left some blanks of walnut for turning into bun feet and were they still ok. They were but I wonder how many rough turned blanks have gone their own way over the last week.
Cheers,
Jim
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16th January 2014, 10:06 PM #21GOLD MEMBER
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16th January 2014, 11:42 PM #22Retired
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I had a big hunk of oak let out a terrific crack today...18" log 1300mm long, bam, right up the centre.
Perhaps the wood is fig? I had a large fig do this to me, but in the end it twisted itself to pieces.
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17th January 2014, 07:01 AM #23Senior Member
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Well, that is normal warping for Pacific Madrone. It is the same color, but don't imagine there is much of that down there. The way it went side ways indicates that it may be from the buttress part on the bottom of the tree where it flares out for support. I have had several similar pieces that melted sideways like that. I do try to sand and finish them before they dry because I prefer the 3 dimensional texture rather than trying to sand it out. The more warped my pieces are, the better they sell.
robo hippy
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17th January 2014, 08:41 AM #24Retired
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17th January 2014, 11:00 AM #25GOLD MEMBER
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mat au,
I like the shape and the figure of the timber. you could leave it as is, or put it between centers and run at slow speed to sand and finish. If you have hollowed it, make a cone drive or tail center, which ever works better.
The inside can be sanded by chucking a dowel in the lathe and taping sandpaper to it so that it wraps around several times. Run at slow speed and ease the piece on and rotate against the revolving sand paper. You could also chuck the dowel in a variable speed drill if your lathe does not come down to a comfortable speed.
In either case I would sand the bottom flat or a bit concave so it would sit without wobbling. Use a belt sander or stick a piece of sand paper down on something flat and rub the bottom of the piece over it, round & round, back & forth, while rotating the piece every few strokes.
To get a concave bottom I put several layers of 150mm long 50mm wide masking tape on a flat surface, crossing over at 90 degrees and 45 degrees so that I get a slight hump. I center a big piece of sand paper over the hump and tape down around the outside. I rub the middle of the bottom of a piece around and around on the top of the hump.
The flat surface can be the top of a table saw, piece of plywood or medium density fiberboard, or a piece of granite kitchen counter that was cut out for the sink. I found it in a skip, at a construction site.
I'm looking forward to seeing how you finish the piece.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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