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Thread: How do you "yelllow" pine?
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15th April 2016, 09:12 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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How do you "yelllow" pine?
I have done a search for "aging pine" and "yellowing pine", but did not find much out.
I was asked to repair a mug holder, as one of the branches had been broken off. So I tried my hand at spindle work, and came up with an acceptable replacement, knowing that the nice white pine would stand out like the proverbial dogs alls.
I will probably use WOP to finish it with, because that is all I have - that will put a bit of colour in the pine, but not enough.
I am thinking that 20 odd years of exposure to light will do the trick, but I would like something somewhat more speedier than that. I will put it in the sun for a few days and see what happens.
I know that an exact match will be impossible, but close enough will be good enough. Any suggestions?
Thanks in anticipation,
Alister.
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15th April 2016 09:12 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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15th April 2016, 09:35 PM #2
There are several ways to yellow pine, putting it in a container and expose it to ammonia fumes, or use tea as a stain, even just staining it with a dye stain or pigment stain.
Exposure to a UV light source is another.
Looking at that colour it doesn't look like the colour that pine naturally ages to, looks too orange, but that could be the photo or my monitor too.
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15th April 2016, 09:40 PM #3
I take it that the colour is definitely NOT a stain?
Give it a week in direct sunlight, standing upright so the colour is even but watch out for the first sign of greying/silvering. To finish it off you'll need to coat it with several coats of stained varnish, Baltic pine will probably be a good match. However I have found that if you FIRST coat it in a matt CLEAR VARNISH, the stain will coat much more evenly. Every coat of stained varnish will add a slightly darker layer.
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16th April 2016, 08:29 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thank you Big Shed and Chief Tiff.
I will investigate the original finish a bit further today when I clean it up - might as well refinish the lot while I am at it.
Because I don't like to stain, and never do, it never occurred to me that it might be stained! Nice even colour anyway. It is neither yellow nor orange - I need a colour sheet to match it.
Thanks,
Alister.
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16th April 2016, 09:23 AM #5
It looks a bit "maple" to me !
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkGlenn Visca
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16th April 2016, 11:24 AM #6SENIOR MEMBER
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Further investigation showed that the colour is most likely in the finish - the "poly" has gone yellow. I sanded some of it off and there was no sign of stain and the pine underneath looks near enough to the new piece.
If I want to do the job properly, I will have to strip the piece and refinish. "Five" minute jobs don't always take just five minutes, do they?
Thanks for the help guys and making me think about it a bit more.
Alister.
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16th April 2016, 12:39 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Have you tried using some metho on the finished pieces to see if the finish is orange shellac?
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16th April 2016, 03:43 PM #8
rather than mucking about trying to match a 20 year old finish and colour -- including sanding and refinishing the piece -- would it not be easier (and quicker) to just make a whole new mug holder?
regards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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16th April 2016, 08:34 PM #9
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16th April 2016, 09:35 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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Kuffy: No, I have not tried that, but I have tried Citrustrip and that had very little effect on the finish. It appears to be a thick coat and is very resistant to being removed.
Ian: What a good question! I do not really want to do that because I would rather do the challenge and renovate this one, even if the hours and elbow grease expended will be greater. (The point of the exercise is to fix this one, not to make him a new one. Blinkered thinking, I know, but I can be a bit stubborn if I need to be.) Also, I bear in mind the meme that goes something like this "Why buy it for $9, when I can make it myself with $90 of craft supplies?" Hence why make a new one when I can fix this one with a lot more time and effort?
smiife: I might do the DO. On the other hand I might do my dough on some more expensive stripper.
Further up, I used poly in inverted commas because I did not really know if it is finished with poly. Dunno what it is, but it would make good case hardening! Shows brush marks and has a run (drip) in one place.
On another note, I had a good run with the still today, getting 2 litres of essential oil from a batch of sugar and yeast - new to me recipe.
Thanks for the suggestions,
Alister.
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16th April 2016, 10:17 PM #11
The quick way....
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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17th April 2016, 08:07 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
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How droll, Cliff! Perhaps the owner would not notice?
Alister.
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17th April 2016, 10:58 PM #13
It was a joke Joyce, I wasn't serious.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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18th April 2016, 03:19 PM #14
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18th April 2016, 09:23 PM #15SENIOR MEMBER
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Cliff, I knew you were jesting, but my reply did not come over too well. Perils of the internet.
Would you believe that I both overthought and underthought this problem. Overthinking because I considered the white of the pine to be a big problem and was looking for a "big" answer. Underthinking because I did not think of the bleeding obvious - do a test piece and see how it works out! So I have hit a sample of the pine with DO, with WOP gloss and WOP over DO. All of which have put some colour into the pine. It may be a bit lighter, but may do the job, and hopefully will darken with age.
Christos, the hardness of the finish has caused me to put the strip on pause until I see how the test colour works out. Maybe a paint shop can supply a stronger stripper, so I will probably take the piece in for some advice. Just gotta find somebody that gives advice, rather than sells the product with the profit.
Cheers,
Alister.
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