Thread: Turned York Gum Burl

Willy,

are you sure 10 coats is enough. What grit do you sand with between coats?

cheers

Mick

PS: I like the bowl

Originally Posted by mick59wests

Willy,

are you sure 10 coats is enough. What grit do you sand with between coats?

cheers

Mick

PS: I like the bowl

Sorry mate, no sanding between coats. All my stuff gets at least 10 coats, provides a nice sheen, is very hard wearing and I have seen some of articles years later and they still look good

Willy

Originally Posted by Willy Nelson

Sorry mate, no sanding between coats. All my stuff gets at least 10 coats, provides a nice sheen, is very hard wearing and I have seen some of articles years later and they still look good

Willy

Willy,

thanks - sounds like something for me that is worth 'having a go'

cheers

Mick

My initial thoughts were how many coats of danish oil as to get it shinny you do need quite a few. When I use danish oil I normally stop somewhere about 3-4 coats for a matt finish but this really brings out the shine.

This is wot Willy does.
After sanding, I blast with compressed air to get of the dust off, especially with burls with open grain, gum veins etc. I then immediately seal it with 3-4 coats of Sanding sealer and then take it inside the house for the DO treatment.

I normally dip some some 0000 steel wool in the DO and work it into the timber, I immediately buff off with a soft rag and leave for 24 hours before repeating the process. Fresh air and a reasonable temperature is also required.
Cheers
Willy

Originally Posted by Willy Nelson

Sorry mate, no sanding between coats. All my stuff gets at least 10 coats, provides a nice sheen, is very hard wearing and I have seen some of articles years later and they still look good

Willy

That's why I don't use danish oil. Way too much work involved. Instead I use Minwax Antique oil, apply 3 coats over two days with a rag and then polish on a buffing machine and it's done.


Peter.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

That's why I don't use danish oil. Way too much work involved. Instead I use Minwax Antique oil, apply 3 coats over two days with a rag and then polish on a buffing machine and it's done.


Peter.

Peter
I have used the WOP before, but never happy with the smoothness of the finish. I know my routine is laborious, but it ALWAYs attracts very positive comments from those who feel how smooth it is compared to other people's finish. A lot of people in my club, including a couple of full time turners are using the process I use.
I will use the WOP for things like cheese knives etc
Thanks
Willy

Willy,

What I use is not the WOP , which is fine for finishing pens as it's a lacquer, but their Antique Oil which is similar to DO but easier and quicker to apply.

I bought mine from Carroll's but it does not appear on their website. When I was experimenting with trying out various finishes I found that the Antique Oil uses about a third of the DO coats to get an equivalent shine and the can lasts a lot longer.


Peter.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

Willy,

What I use is not the WOP , which is fine for finishing pens as it's a lacquer, but their Antique Oil which is similar to DO but easier and quicker to apply.

I bought mine from Carroll's but it does not appear on their website. When I was experimenting with trying out various finishes I found that the Antique Oil uses about a third of the DO coats to get an equivalent shine and the can lasts a lot longer.


Peter.

sounds like another thing to try
cheers
Mick

noice

love york gum burl

Hi willy,
Very nice bowl willy, well done!
Not too sure about the foot looks a bit large
compared with the nice flow of the inside
Just my thoughts for what they are worth!

Originally Posted by smiife

Hi willy,
Very nice bowl willy, well done!
Not too sure about the foot looks a bit large
compared with the nice flow of the inside
Just my thoughts for what they are worth!

Mate, now that you mention it, I agree

Willy