Thread: customising platpax cabinets

It depends on what tools you have.

The hardest part is probably to get the new cuts exactly square to the front and back of the boards.

You need to cut the back, the top rail and the base down, as these are the boards that fit between the gables.

You will also find out that the base has 4 x 4 10mm holes drilled closed to the edges to locate the mounting blocks for the adjustable feet.

5mm is not enough to move directly in from thse holes and redrill, so you will also need to off set the location of these blocks - which for only one cabinet should not pose a major problem, although make sure it doessn't end up interfering with your kickboard placement.

I don't know how you are going to adjust one or both of your doors though - assuming you are getting two pack or thermolaminate there is no atractive way of taking off 5mm (or 2 x 2.5) and refinishing the edge.

Cheers,

You will also find out that the base has 4 x 4 10mm holes drilled closed to the edges to locate the mounting blocks for the adjustable feet.

5mm is not enough to move directly in from thse holes and redrill, so you will also need to off set the location of these blocks - which for only one cabinet should not pose a major problem, although make sure it doessn't end up interfering with your kickboard placement.

i am led to believe that the feet are simply screwed onto the base ,so there will be no holes drilled ,if there is simply knock off the lugs on the plate and screw it on where required ,as stated there is no neat and easy way to finish a flatpax door ,have you included fills into the design ? ,if not then i would suggest you look at this option to overcome your dilemma

Thanks for the advice.
I can see the problem in reducing the size of a door. Maybe I should get a quote to get some custom made flatpack cupboards. Especially after reading past threads about problems with vinal peeling off. Living in Darwin, it is very humid.