Thread: Where do I start - Kitchen Reno

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

The project manager (SWMBO) would prefer a larger tile, her reasoning is that there would be less grout to clean. Who am I to argue
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John

Your kitchen has some very strong horizontal lines, emphasised by the coloured horizontal stripe.

Me. I'd try for two rows of tiles below the stripe and one above -- but that infers you can get glazed tiles of the required size.
I wouldn't use polished stone as it's, IMO, too hard to keep clean. SWMBO is forever spraying the stone bench tops here with a surface cleaner.

IMO, the stripe really lifts the look of your original kitchen.

We've got acrylic (not fitted by me - here when we turned up). It's great. I don't think I'd go back to tiles given the choice. Looks good, easy to clean, and it's hard wearing (no scratches on ours)

IMG_1425.jpg

Carries on around the other side of the window and stops the coffee machine splattering the walls, but you get the idea

Day 3.
Old kitchen all gone and ready to start installing the new kitchen tomorrow.
Found out today that because I have a gas cooktop only glass or tiles are permitted for use as splashback material.

Kitchen Project 27.jpg


Kitchen Project 28.jpg

Wiring has been rerouted through the studs, much better.
Kitchen Project 29.jpg

Originally Posted by Bernmc

We've got acrylic (not fitted by me - here when we turned up). It's great. I don't think I'd go back to tiles given the choice. Looks good, easy to clean, and it's hard wearing (no scratches on ours)

IMG_1425.jpg

Carries on around the other side of the window and stops the coffee machine splattering the walls, but you get the idea

Interesting to see you have a gas cooktop, I have been told that you can't use acrylic splashbacks behind a gas cooktop.


Splashbacks and gas

Most installation requirements relating to splashbacks have to do with gas. When you consider that many splashbacks will be built behind ovens and other cooking implements, this is an important factor so you don’t burst a gas pipe or blow yourself up.
Combustible splashbacks installed behind open-flame gas cooktops are carefully regulated in order to prevent them from catching or spreading fire. These regulations are specifically contained within the requiremens for the installation of gas appliances. Combustible materials generally include things like acrylic splashbacks, timber splashbacks and similarly susceptible materials. Many builders and designers believe (understandably) that glass and stainless steel are non-combustible materials; however both conduct heat fairly well, and if they're too close to a gas burner they can easily transfer heat to the unprotected substrate material or timber framing behind them - which as you can imagine may easily end in disaster. A clearance between the nearest gas burner to any combustible splashback of 200mm or more means the installation will be fine. Any less than 200mm and you will need your builder to do a little bit of work to make it safe. If you have a stainless steel or glass splashback, you'll need to install a fire resistant board up to the same distance (200mm from the nearest gas burner) behind the glass or stainless steel splashback that complies with the requirements of AS 5601/AG 601 Gas Installations, Appendix C substrate. There are exceptions to this rule - if clear documentation can be supplied that demonstrates that the fixing method will ensure that the temperature of the combustible surface won't exceed 65º Celsius above ambient temperature during normal operation, then a fire resistant board isn't necessary.

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

Splashbacks and gas

Most installation requirements relating to splashbacks have to do with gas. When you consider that many splashbacks will be built behind ovens and other cooking implements, this is an important factor so you don’t burst a gas pipe or blow yourself up.
Combustible splashbacks installed behind open-flame gas cooktops are carefully regulated in order to prevent them from catching or spreading fire. These regulations are specifically contained within the requiremens for the installation of gas appliances. Combustible materials generally include things like acrylic splashbacks, timber splashbacks and similarly susceptible materials. Many builders and designers believe (understandably) that glass and stainless steel are non-combustible materials; however both conduct heat fairly well, and if they're too close to a gas burner they can easily transfer heat to the unprotected substrate material or timber framing behind them - which as you can imagine may easily end in disaster. A clearance between the nearest gas burner to any combustible splashback of 200mm or more means the installation will be fine. Any less than 200mm and you will need your builder to do a little bit of work to make it safe. If you have a stainless steel or glass splashback, you'll need to install a fire resistant board up to the same distance (200mm from the nearest gas burner) behind the glass or stainless steel splashback that complies with the requirements of AS 5601/AG 601 Gas Installations, Appendix C substrate. There are exceptions to this rule - if clear documentation can be supplied that demonstrates that the fixing method will ensure that the temperature of the combustible surface won't exceed 65º Celsius above ambient temperature during normal operation, then a fire resistant board isn't necessary.

so the issue is about achieving 200 mm clearance from the closest gas burner. Perhaps Bernmc has the required 200 mm clearance, meaning his "potentially" combustible splash back is OK?

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

Day 3.
Old kitchen all gone and ready to start installing the new kitchen tomorrow.

Kitchen Project 28.jpg

Wiring has been rerouted through the studs, much better.

two, possibly three, potential "gotcha" issues I can see.

1. does the new cabinetry exactly match the colour of the pelmet you have left in the ceiling? Me thinks it's unlikely.

2. do the new overhead cupboards exactly meet with the pelmet? IMO this is critical to the amount of work required on the ceiling.

3. when do you intend repairing / re-sheeting the walls. Kitchens I've seen installed were into spaces where the walls were fully intact. Fixing the walls will require disconnecting the power to the ensuite.

Another thought for this stage: Do you want more, relocated or different lumieres or electrical outlets? Under cabinet lights?

One thing I always do at this stage John is replace all the plasterboard, do all the patching, it’s easier now rather than bending over the cabinets. And go around afterwards and seal up everywhere with no more gaps. This gives the cockroaches and other critters less places to come through the walls and in under and inside the cabinets. Pay particular attention to holes through the bottom plate, where wires or gas lines come through, this is a common spot for pest egress.

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

Interesting to see you have a gas cooktop, I have been told that you can't use acrylic splashbacks behind a gas cooktop.

Aint nuttin' compliant about this house. Built, reno'd and re-reno'd since the sixties, there's a hodgepodge of construction and standards. And non-standards.

Originally Posted by ian

two, possibly three, potential "gotcha" issues I can see.

1. does the new cabinetry exactly match the colour of the pelmet you have left in the ceiling? Me thinks it's unlikely.

2. do the new overhead cupboards exactly meet with the pelmet? IMO this is critical to the amount of work required on the ceiling.

3. when do you intend repairing / re-sheeting the walls. Kitchens I've seen installed were into spaces where the walls were fully intact. Fixing the walls will require disconnecting the power to the ensuite.

1. & 2. The pelmet and cornice work is going to be replaced.
3. Not sure what you mean by having to disconnect power to the ensuite. The power will be isolated at the mains while electrical work is being carried out.

Originally Posted by rob streeper

Another thought for this stage: Do you want more, relocated or different lumieres or electrical outlets? Under cabinet lights?

There are sufficient power outlets already installed. Lighting is all good.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

One thing I always do at this stage John is replace all the plasterboard, do all the patching, it’s easier now rather than bending over the cabinets. And go around afterwards and seal up everywhere with no more gaps. This gives the cockroaches and other critters less places to come through the walls and in under and inside the cabinets. Pay particular attention to holes through the bottom plate, where wires or gas lines come through, this is a common spot for pest egress.

I was going to plaster the walls after the cabinets were installed, but you have given me food for thought. I'll reassess my plan of attack after the kitchen arrives this morning.

Thank you all for the input so far, it has been greatly appreciated.
In past kitchen reno's I have always struggled with connecting the sink to the waste pipe. For some reason there never seems to be exactly the right combo of PVC fittings available. This time I think that I will purchase the fittings and locate the sink to suit. I can always buy a couple of different combo's and return what I don't use.

I believe that I will have to cut off the waste pipe below the sleeve to facilitate fitting the cupboard, then fit another sleeve and extend the waste pipe again.
Kitchen Project 30.jpg

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

3. Not sure what you mean by having to disconnect power to the ensuite. The power will be isolated at the mains while electrical work is being carried out.

isolating the power at the mains is what I meant

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

I was going to plaster the walls after the cabinets were installed, but you have given me food for thought. I'll reassess my plan of attack after the kitchen arrives this morning.

RB is on the money.
Do the plaster work before the cabinets are installed, while access is easy.

Originally Posted by riverbuilder

One thing I always do at this stage John is replace all the plasterboard, do all the patching, it’s easier now rather than bending over the cabinets. And go around afterwards and seal up everywhere with no more gaps. This gives the cockroaches and other critters less places to come through the walls and in under and inside the cabinets. Pay particular attention to holes through the bottom plate, where wires or gas lines come through, this is a common spot for pest egress.

Call me paranoid/over cautious, but I just spent a small fortune getting other dodgy wiring that was done by the previous owner fixed. If we were ever to have a fire in the house the insurance company would use any non compliant issues to reject a claim, I don't want to give them any ammo.

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

Call me paranoid/over cautious, but I just spent a small fortune getting other dodgy wiring that was done by the previous owner fixed. If we were ever to have a fire in the house the insurance company would use any non compliant issues to reject a claim, I don't want to give them any ammo.

I fail to see how closing pest entry points will give your insurance company any reason to reject a claim. If anything it’s lessening the likelihood of rodents getting in and chewing the cables, a major cause of electrical problems and cause of fires. Do what you like.