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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
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    8

    Default Appropriate cover for self-leveling compound

    I have a 6900mm X 6200mm double-garage basement workshop built in Besser blocks with a 3200mm high structural slab ceiling and concrete slab floor. Beyond that thereís a staircase at the back to our villa Unit home above, about 4500mm elevation from garage floor to top step.

    In the garage proper I have a workbench, drill press, and lots of storage including 2400m X 2400m peg board, 5000mm X 2400mm X 570mm industrial shelving, lumber shelf of 5200 X 350mm, metal chemical cupboard, and 2 X storage cupboards. Outside of that I have a 4200mm X 1500mm X 1000mm loft added on the garage above the entrance. For that reason Iíve never used properly the potential storage under the stairs. Iíve just used it as dumping ground for garden materials etc.

    Anyway, the day has come that Iíve used all that space as weíre painting and have a roomís worth of furniture extra to store temporarily. I cleared out under the stairs and immediately got the project bug. The space is L-shaped and roughly 2100mm X 2100 X 800mm wide.

    Two thirds of the floor in this area (1.9m2 of 3.1m2) was left unfinished by the builder - itís rough and slopes away to the back wall to a level about 10mm below the floor. This seems ideal to use self-leveling compound on. I can scribe the levels on board and thus cut level formwork. However self leveling compound needs to be under floor covering. Why is this? Is a flake epoxy finish as you would use in a garage adequate cover for self-leveling compound?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    2,726

    Default

    Just did a manky garage floor with this: https://www.bunnings.com.au/lanko-5k...eller_p0760338

    It was gravel, terrible concrete and clay underneath. A right mess. The crap was removed and set with cement, then this poured over the top for a fine finish.

    On top is battens and yellow tongue.

    But if it's just for storage and understair, why bother with a super dooper finish? Bog it up!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    But if it's just for storage and understair, why bother with a super dooper finish? Bog it up!
    Lanko is the sort of thing, but I was looking at Ardit or Sikafloor. The epoxy finish was because I wanted a consistent look across the whole workshop. However, if foot traffic damage is the weakness with these self-levelling compounds then I was concerned that epoxy would be too light a protection. Certainly itís a long way from yellow tongue in that regard. However if the issue is light exposure then epoxy might be perfect cover. Anybody know why self-leveling compound must be covered, and what constitutes acceptable cover?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    59
    Posts
    499

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ruadh View Post
    Lanko is the sort of thing, but I was looking at Ardit or Sikafloor. The epoxy finish was because I wanted a consistent look across the whole workshop. However, if foot traffic damage is the weakness with these self-levelling compounds then I was concerned that epoxy would be too light a protection. Certainly it’s a long way from yellow tongue in that regard. However if the issue is light exposure then epoxy might be perfect cover. Anybody know why self-leveling compound must be covered, and what constitutes acceptable cover?
    Where are you getting the self leveling coating must be covered? Traditionally it is used as a prep coat for floor coverings but I wasn’t aware it must be covered, have seen it and used it to repair factory floors over the years without an issue.
    Just a side point, the existing slab may not have a membrane under it so be mindful of any finish coatings / coverings you use that may be effected by rising moisture

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    Where are you getting the self leveling coating must be covered? ...
    Just a side point, the existing slab may not have a membrane under it so be mindful of any finish coatings / coverings you use that may be effected by rising moisture

    • Can only be used on concrete floors. Not suitable for driveways or areas subject to vehicular traffic. Must be covered by tiles, carpet or vinyl.

    Thatís from Dunlopís Ardit instructions.

    On the side point, Iíll certainly test for moisture emissions before I commit to installing epoxy.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Beardy View Post
    Where are you getting the self leveling coating must be covered? ...
    Just a side point, the existing slab may not have a membrane under it so be mindful of any finish coatings / coverings you use that may be effected by rising moisture
    From Dunlopís Ardit instructions:

    So, I looked up the equivalent instructions for your suggestion of Lanko and I think I found
    my answer.

    Lanko 173 Floor Leveller is not a wearing surface and must be protected with a compatible topping, floor covering
    or coating.
    Davco Floor level Lanko 173 .

    That is, it is the ability to stand foot traffic or other wear that is the deficiency with self-leveling compounds. In which case epoxy might be okay, particularly since the Larko instructions allow coatings which the Ardit instructions do not.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    2,726

    Default

    That floor is dry as a bone. Dig it out a bit and just fill it with concrete mix. Level it with the floor and paint it.

    Easy peasy.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Dig it out a bit and just fill it with concrete mix. Level it with the floor ...
    Yes, but this sounds like more work than just sealing and self-leveling.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default Floor levelled

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    That floor is dry as a bone. Dig it out a bit and just fill it with concrete mix. Level it with the floor and paint it.

    Easy peasy.

    So, I went ahead finally, laying out 19mm width wood formwork, scribed and cut to a level with the highpoint across the the uneven floor cross section. The formwork was set for the north and on each line edged at the perimeter drain on three sides and on a diagonal. (c. 0mm to 30mm high). On the south end, there the existing uneven surface went right to the besser brick walls, so I just taped along the level and poured to it. At the exit (where two parts of East side formwork and the diagonal converge at the high point) there was a small gap with a drop (0mm to 4mm to 0mm) across maybe 15mm and I just made a rough form with wood scraps to bridge the gap. This edge, despite it's minimal dimensions, failed during the pour. I had to top this up as the mix escaped and so you can see a tiny circle of uneven concrete (100cm diameter) which I'll fix manually.
    IMG_5729.jpg
    IMG_5731.jpg

    And then poured and set:
    IMG_5894.jpgIMG_5900.jpg

    The result is fully level though the formwork is a bit high in places by a mm or two (poor carpentry) and I'll cut it down. I'm putting in ss grates 25mm X 100mm above the perimeter drain, with a 16 gauge ss angle (25mm by 25mm). The angle will seal the edge of the vinyl floor that I'm laying.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Eastwood, NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    That concrete leak in the pour was 100mm in diameter, not 100cm!

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