Thread: Fix a fence

You can get fence brackets - a U shaped bracket, open at the top which allows for a butt join between post and rail. There is another fitting available which is more solid looking - has a rectangular opening for the rail. This one seems aimed at the DIY picket fencers.

This might overcome your rot problem - which I presume is in the rail/post joint.

You can nail if you drill first. Old hardwood just gets harder.

What are the posts like? If the rails are rotten, wooden posts will probably be rotten too.

Like Wombat said, bunnings etc carry a range of brackets etc - in the same place that they have stirrups and triplegrips for decks, etc. That will allow you to replace the rails without housing them into the posts. If posts already hvae housings and are in good nick, simply replace the rail with a new one of similar design.

Nailing a fence, especially a rickety old thing, is like nailing sheyet to a wall. Really hard. Screws would work, especially if you hvae someone on the other side of the fence providing pressure to push against.

If you have a lot to do, consider hiring a nail gun - as well as being great fun, they will make th job much easier. Any hire company can advise the best type of gun etc.

Trav

It might also pay to fix the underlying problem of pressure on the palings. Not only will it be likely to happen again but damp soil, rocks and grass will accelerate rotting of your fence.

Thanks very much Fellas

I've been sick so haven't been able to do much lately. Now I'm on the mend and will get back into it.

Unfortunately the fence is on a poorly built retaining wall between the neighbour and me, which means that it will be a patch-up job, but the tips will be a big help.

Jon

I have used short railing sections screwed to the posts in my fence. I set the level for the bottom rail, and secure a short piece of railing vertical along the post. The bottom rail sits on this and is secured by screws to the post. Next comes another piece of railing up the post, rail on top and so on. The vertical railing secured to the posts supports the horizontal rail and allows secure fixing. I did this as the front fence is Treated Pine and I did not want to 1. cut mortices and expose the core of the post to weather, and 2. did not want to use metal brackets.
It looks a bit different, but it works well. If using treated pine, use creosote or paint the end several times. There doesn't seem to be as much "treatment" all the way through. I don't really know, so I sealed the heck out of it.

If using TP, get the correct self drilling screw for the job, I put two screws into each paling, into each rail, I was told cupping couldbe a problem and this would stop it. I did not have any problems with splitting.
I don't like TP, but for fencing (away from the veggie garden) it seems ok on the ethical front.
I'd also 'reduce the pressure', or its going to cause the same problem again a bit down the track.
Hope this assists.

1. About 1978. Our house was the first house in this area of a Sydney suburb, (built by Eddie Long of Long Homes for his daughter).
2. About 1979. Hardwood boundary fence was erected around the property.
2a. About 1989. We bought the property.
3. About 1999. The boundary fence needed replacing.
4. About 1999. All adjoining owners agreed to 6 foot lap and cap paling fence.
5. Erectors said Western fence needed longer posts to be concreted in for that fence because those neighbours had built the level of soil up by 30 cm.
6. The Western neighbours (neighbours on the Western side of us), agreed to this with cost halved for each of them and us.
7. They said for us to arrange retaining wall for the 30 cm gap below the fence palings and they will pay for the cost.
8. Since then, the western neighbours have raised the level by further 20 cm against the fence.
9. The length of affected area is 20 metres.
10. January 2006 Western neighbours have now sold with settlement next week.
11. Council said they should not have built soil level up against the fence.
12. Following issue of letter to respond by today, they called today saying
13. They said for us to arrange retaining wall for the 30 cm gap below the fence palings but never said they will pay for the cost.
14. Western neighbours now say they never said they would pay for the retaining wall.
15. They have rejected two quotes for block wall.
16. They are only prepared to pay half the bost of a treated pine retaining wall on our property against the fence.
17. We said that is unfair because most is in our front yard and we want something attractive to match the colour of our brick home.
18. They said no, they will only contribute half of the cost to erect trated pine ratining wall to cost $1,760.
19. What are our options because we do not think we should have to pay anything, (agreed verbally by council), because our Western neighbours were the ones building up the soil level against the fence.
20. The Council said the Western Neighbours are the ones that should be erecting the rataining wall on their side of the fence, after clearing the soil they have placed against the fence.
21. We are in a situation where the 6' high fence has already been built, with longer posts concreted in and a gap where the retaining wall is missing.
22. The Council allows
a) fences to 6'
b) retaining walls to 60 cm.
23. Thank you for reading this.
Regards,

Hi Gard,

just go with the treated pine retaining wall, plant some nice plants in front, grab a bear and steak sandwich, a nice chair, a garden hose and hose your new plants.

You probably lose on principal, but karma will come your way.

Life is too short to get caught up in these types of neighbourhood disputes.

cheers

dazzler