Thread: timber louvres

It will depend on what tools you have.

If you have a table saw then a jig could easily be made to cut the slots.

A jig could also be made for a router.

You could use a handsaw and chisel out the waste, if you don't access to a table saw or router.

The jigs for the power tools will take a little time to set up but will be accurate and fast once the jig is made.

The hand saw method might seem tedious and time consuming but in reality could be done in a morning. Again, a jig might help make it easier and more accurate depending on your experience.

hi

not really enough info here - can the blades extend further than the stiles or do they have to be contained within them? Also, the distances youre referring to are quite large. I believe, being in a hot and humid area as you are, the timber will buckle due to only (if I am reading it correctly) being supported at the ends. this of course, depends a lot on the species and dimensions. Finally, why 60 degrees? It seems extreme, but I am sure you have your reasons and I would be keen to hear them.

Finally.....(sorry about this).....100mm slats - is that the final width AT 60 deg. or is that the width when flat?

Have fun!

Originally Posted by Wood Borer

The hand saw method might seem tedious and time consuming but in reality could be done in a morning. Again, a jig might help make it easier and more accurate depending on your experience.

A cheap circular saw and a decent jig would also take a morning, though I feel would be less tedious (but then I hate repetition)

I tend to agree with you steriph1 about the big span, it's a bit of an ask for timber. 100mm blades, 100mm gaps, 2.4 and 1.8 span ???? Maybe some centre spaces would help but sure is a lot of work and maintainance involved. Perhaps an alternative such as powder coat aluminum but I don't know the price difference