Thread: Beading removal

If painted or stained, use a utility knife to score the junction between the glazing bead and frame also at junction of glass but be very careful that the blade doesn't run off line. Then starting in the middle of the longest bead, gently prize the up adjacent to the fixing brads (should be able to see indents where the putty has shrunk at brad head) and work your way back to the mitres. Remove longest beads first the short ones.
You can also use a multi tool to cut the brads after lifting the bead about 1mm adjacent to each brad.

Originally Posted by rwbuild

If painted or stained, use a utility knife to score the junction between the glazing bead and frame also at junction of glass but be very careful that the blade doesn't run off line. Then starting in the middle of the longest bead, gently prize the up adjacent to the fixing brads (should be able to see indents where the putty has shrunk at brad head) and work your way back to the mitres. Remove longest beads first the short ones.
You can also use a multi tool to cut the brads after lifting the bead about 1mm adjacent to each brad.

Rays
Description is perfect.
But if I can add, I use two thin cheap spatulas then use a old chisel in between them to open the gap a bit.
This spreads the load and docent brusie any timber.


Cheers Matt

Thanks. The trouble is these beads are not just thick, but short [something like 350 x 275 mm ], therefore virtually no flex. The mitres make it impossible to lift the first one, so it has to come out 'sideways '. I guess I'm trying to find a way to pull the brads first, then lever the bead out. Glass is to be binned so can be sacrificed if necessary. [No putty involved]

Just use a multi tool then, you will only destroy the bead trying to get the brads out first.
On second thoughts, if it is obvious where the brads are, use a nail (point blunted) the same gauge as the head of the brads and simply punch them into the frame.