Thread: Cupboard Door Hinge question

Yes Phil, you can drill out the holes and glue in some dowel then re-drill for the screws. I prefer to try and use dowel that is the same timber as the carcase if possible. After you have cut the dowels you will need a sharp chisel to clean up the ends. I doubt wether epoxy would work as a filling medium.

Cheers

Thanks Sqizzy, but this is Chipboard, no carcase. Will chipboard hold a dowell with sufficient strength?

Phill.

Originally Posted by ptrott

Thanks Sqizzy, but this is Chipboard, no carcase. Will chipboard hold a dowell with sufficient strength?

Phill.

Well thats a bugger, throw it out on the kerb....

I'f its not too visible you can just move the hinge. Is it rebated??

Another way (in timber dunno bout chipboard) is to cut out the damaged section completly and dowel in a new piece to take the hinge.

The problem with dowels in the chipboard is the dowel will be stronger and harder than the surround. You have got nothing to lose by giving it a go. Just make sure the holes drilled out for the dowell are not too small as the chipboard will split around the dowel. A firm (tap in) fit is what you want. Use the grooved type dowel and PVA glue. Allow to dry for 24 hours (at least) and use a sharp/new very small drill for the pilot holes as it will tend to run off into the chipboard given half a chance.

Whilst you are dowelling firmly clamp pieces of hardwood either side of the chipboard to support the area.

Good luck

Phill I had the same thing a few years back .I cleaned out the hole & re filled it with 'u need it to fix it', re drilled & fitted hinge lasted ok till kitchen replaced. Cant recall seeing that product for awhile but have not really looked, it sets like a rock.

Neal

Squizzy, it is one of those hinges where you use a special drill bits about 30 plus mm in diam. and the hinge sits in the hole on the door. That bit is OK as it is in MDF and has some plastic plugs that I have not come across before fixed into the MDF somehow for the screws to go into. The other bit of the hinge goes onto the cupboard wall which is chipboard. As it is not on the edge and is on the flat surface the dowel should work OK but I would like to get the job done with only one more visit to the premises, so Neals idea of Knead it might be a better idea provided that it will not split when screwed into. It is an epoxy so I'm not sure how wood screws will go into it without splitting it. Epoxy is not usually very elastic /soft, and it will only be a small plug of epoxy. How big a hole did you drill Neal to fil with epoxy?

Phill.

Dip a couple of matches in glue and poke them into the old screw holes.
The screws will hold ok. Use plenty of glue (even pva will do the job well)

Phil sounds like the same setup of hinge , the screws where short but probably about 10~12 gauge I just cleaned hole out of loose chipboard filled with kneadit & redrilled so only the screw threads where cutting to help avoid splitting.But even matches etc glued in as per Echnidna would be ok.I feel the main thing is the pilot hole needs to be big enough to stop the chipboard blowing out ( try a few different sizes in scrap first) when the screw body goes in .

After you get it plugged and rescrewed, remove the screws one at a time and put some pva in the hole and put the screws back in immediately.
It will form a toughened zone around the threads and may prevent furure failure.
As pva doesnt glue steel the screws will still be removable for servicing etc.

Thanks Gents. That is a good tip about the glue Bob. I did the job today with dowelling in the freshly drilled holes and it worked a treat.
Thanks again.
Phill.