Fitting a lock to double entrance doors

**Ben (TM)** · 17th August 2006, 12:40 PM

Greetings learned forum members.

Looking for some advice on how I should go about fitting a lock to a set of double entrance doors on "the project".

I have bought a Gainsborough trilock 3 in 1 lockset, deadbolt and passage set (see pic). This lock, like most, needs to be mounted on a flush door edge and jamb. Problem is with these old doors, at the point at where the doors come together is like a half lap joint (see doors diagram).

Originally, the door just had a lock cylinder with a back mounted latch, with the catch back mounted on the opposing door. I guess I could have replicated this with something like a Lockwood 001 Deadlatch but the problem with these is that they are either open (doors swinging around) or locked. I want the convenience of a knob/handle that allows the doors to be closed, but not necessarily locked, which is why i bought the Gainsborough.

I made a bit of a mess of the packaging when I opened the lockset, so not much chance of taking it back now, so I'd like to make it work if I can (it cost $140!).

So I have two ideas - and I'd like some opinions on which way you guys would go (or any other way that I haven't thought of).

Solution 1:
Completely remove the rebated edges on both doors. This will leave a gap of about 30mm in between the doors. To fix this, I would add a strip of hardwood to the edge of Door 1, then mount the lockset

Solution 2:
Build up the rebated section of door 1. Cut the mirrored leading edge out of door 2 allowing the strike plate to be mounted on a flat, solid section of door (I figure that this is the most likely point of failure in a forced entry situation).

See diagrams for details

The other option would be to revert to the Lockwood dead latch and waste the $140 (maybe try selling it on ebay or something I guess) and install a completely separate passage type set (although I am going to have the same problems with this as I doubt I will be able to find a passage set with a back mount)

Obviously, the more secure option (which ever that may be in people's minds ) is the most preferred!

BTW - doors are red pine, door 2 (strike plate door) will be secured top and bottom with Lockwood 680 patio bolts.

Cheers

Ben

**Ben (TM)** · 17th August 2006, 01:10 PM

Giving it some more thought - solution 1 is a dumb idea. The rebate actually increases the security as you would have to break one or both of the rebates off to force the door inward (assuming that the floor bolts did't pop first) - so in my mind, solution 2 is the better option. What I might do on door one instead of just packing out one side of the rebate, so cut the whole rebate down for the area requred and fix a hardwood 'packing plate' the same depth as the door. Then rebate the mirror image area on door 2.

**silentC** · 17th August 2006, 01:48 PM

instead of just packing out one side of the rebate, so cut the whole rebate down for the area requred and fix a hardwood 'packing plate' the same depth as the door

I wouldn't do that. I would leave the rebate that is visible from outside intact and pack the inside of that one so that you don't see a break in the line of the door from outside. That would be the strike side I guess (doors open inwards of course?). I would check out the rebate to take the latch. Make sure you measure the offset for the holes from the rebate

**holzman** · 17th August 2006, 01:55 PM

mate! get yourself a rebate kit....... http://www.gainsboroughhardware.com....id=3_20_46_342

**Ben (TM)** · 17th August 2006, 03:21 PM

Originally Posted by holzman

mate! get yourself a rebate kit....... http://www.gainsboroughhardware.com....id=3_20_46_342

Noooo. Can't be as easy as that can it? Surely...

I just phoned them, and that is exactly what I am after! Yippeeeee - thanks a million holzman. Greenie for you

**silentC** · 17th August 2006, 03:26 PM

It's basically what you were planning to do anyway. There's a spacer to go under the latch and the strike plate is bent up so it give the side of the latch something to hit against rather than the timber of the door.

**Ben (TM)** · 17th August 2006, 03:34 PM

Yeah - pretty much. For $13.35 at The Door Store in Moorabin I'm much happier using the correct hardware than trying to make a mess myself!

**Shaun04** · 17th August 2006, 05:21 PM

Oh no, i hate those Gainsborough ones, i did 2 of them a couple of weeks back, so fiddly.

**silentC** · 17th August 2006, 05:36 PM

If you think it's fiddly to install them, try teaching your kids (and the missus) how to use them!

**Ben (TM)** · 17th August 2006, 06:20 PM

Originally Posted by Shaun04

Oh no, i hate those Gainsborough ones, i did 2 of them a couple of weeks back, so fiddly.

What's the issue?

**Ben (TM)** · 17th August 2006, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by silentC

If you think it's fiddly to install them, try teaching your kids (and the missus) how to use them!

Uh? Looks simple enough on the packet! Turn knob, push door open!

**Shaun04** · 18th August 2006, 06:47 AM

Originally Posted by Ben (TM)

What's the issue?

Its not that fiddly, its just the lock mechanism getting it all lined up and then screwing it together, lets just say its not as easy as other ones.

**silentC** · 18th August 2006, 09:39 AM

Looks simple enough on the packet!

That's how they rope you in

You'll see!

Actually, it was me that had all the trouble, they picked it up quick

**Ben (TM)** · 18th August 2006, 09:50 AM

LOL - sounds like a good IQ test! I let you know how I get on Monday

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