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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Melbourne , Aus
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    Default Framing around doors

    Hi guys,
    First of all, great forum, thanks for having something like this on here.
    I just registered after stumbling upon this place looking for a couple of answers on the web.
    I'm doing a bit of a project on my own which includes framing a few walls and door and window openings.Just wandering what size opening is required for a standard size single door. So what I would like to know is after the frame is put in place, what should the distance be from inside to inside of the studs on each side of door opening.I was thinking 900 mm.Will that allow for the jambs and a couple of mm on each side of door panel once installed?
    Thanks very much
    cheers

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
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    Pambula
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    Default

    Depends on the thickness of your jamb material. For a standard 810 door, I would aim for 815mm between jambs, so add the thickness of your jambs plus say 5 or 10 mm to allow you to pack them plumb (just incase your framing is a bit off).

    For example, I used 19mm jambs in my place, so the stud opening was about 860mm. If you make it too wide, you need a heap of packing and you may have problems fixing your architraves.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    431

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by silentC
    Depends on the thickness of your jamb material. For a standard 810 door, I would aim for 815mm between jambs, so add the thickness of your jambs plus say 5 or 10 mm to allow you to pack them plumb (just incase your framing is a bit off).

    For example, I used 19mm jambs in my place, so the stud opening was about 860mm. If you make it too wide, you need a heap of packing and you may have problems fixing your architraves.
    silentC,

    810mm isn't a standard width. 820mm is.

    Common standard widths are

    420, 520, 620, 720, 770, 820, 870mm.

    There are other widths but are rare.

    Cheers,
    I wanted to become a brickie but my old man said "No son, learn a trade."

  5. #4
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    Default

    Oops.

    Mondayitis.

    Add 10mm to my example....
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne , Aus
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    Default

    Wow, what a quick response.Thanks guys.
    SilentC, thanks very much.See, the packing bit escaped me somehow so thanks very much for pointing it out.I will then see what thickness jamb material there is and follow that.
    Now these doors will be a bit heavier than normal,so should I use thicker jamb material, or are the studs the ones that actually are the load bearers and jamb thickness isn't so important??
    Thanks very much guys
    cheers

  7. #6
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    Default

    Well, the thickness of the jamb material probably isn't too critical if you support it well at the hinge points. Some people like to put the hinge side hard up against the stud and screw right through the jamb into the stud. For heavy doors, you'll probably want to put three hinges, so if you work out where they are going to go, then make sure you either go hard up against the stud, or put some good solid fixings where the hinges will be, you'll be OK. Just make sure you don't put any nails where your hinge mortices will be.
    "I don't practice what I preach because I'm not the kind of person I'm preaching to."

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne , Aus
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    Default

    SilentC, thank you very much.The idea of screwing the hinges right through into the studs seems a very sturdy option.
    Amazing what one can learn on a forum in a couple hours time
    thanks heaps
    cheers

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