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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Default Help me Double entry doors dont align

    G,day. I have just replaced my Entry door with double doors put in new Jamb Hung the doors but they arn,t Inline at the bottom, Right hand door Juts out about 10 mm. How do you get that part of Instalation Sqare:confused: I assume the door jamb is out of wack.:confused:

    Thanks 2 Bob

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  3. #2
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    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Maybe you could move the bottom hinge of the door the sticks out back a bit. :confused:
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  4. #3
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    Mar 2005
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Bob
    G,day. I have just replaced my Entry door with double doors put in new Jamb Hung the doors but they arn,t Inline at the bottom, Right hand door Juts out about 10 mm. How do you get that part of Instalation Sqare:confused: I assume the door jamb is out of wack.:confused:

    Thanks 2 Bob
    Sounds like it. Its nearly always the jamb unless your door is warped which isnt that common unless it was stored badly.

    without seeing the result it is hard to say exactly what to do.

    But it sounds like you could should move the base of the jamb in the opposite direction to where the door is sticking out. Double doors take a bit a patience, but a good long level will be your friend.

  5. #4
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    May 2003
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    Kuranda, paradise, North Qld
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    2Bob,
    get a hold of a long level, check it for plumb on a wall. (To do this, hold it against the wall and adjust till plumb then use it to draw a plumb line on the wall. Flip the level over, not end for end, just face to face and check that it still shows plumb when you lay it on the previously drawn line). Check that your jambs are plumb in both planes, they're probably not. If they're not you'll have to remove and refit them. If they are than take the doors down and check that they're not twisted by sighting along the face.

    Mick
    "If you need a machine today and don't buy it,

    tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."

    - Henry Ford 1938

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Hastings,Victoria
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    Default Thank you

    Thanks for the replys I am going to take advice and apply it the affending trouble some doors .



    Cheers...2 Bob

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    brisbane
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    253

    Default

    It's a bit hard to tell exactly where the problem is with out seeing it but if the jambs are plumb and you have to resort to adjusting the hinges then split the difference ie 5mm in on one hinge and 5mm out on the other hinge

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Victoria
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    I reckon yr wall maybe mis-aligned or the doors are warped...

    I do a little part time work on period homes. Just for a bit of fun.....So this is what i do when i know the walls are out.

    Like Midge says use a Long level and check everything then check again. I have a 2m and that shows up everything...good and bad.

    Assumes the walls are out by 10mm I have had worse.

    1. I use an oversize jamb.
    2. Fit the doors properly to the jamb ....fit the locks hinges whatever. I aim for a 1.5mm gap all round. The lightly nail some strips across the jamb to hold it all together. I place temp packers in to maintain this gap.
    3. Stand the whole assembly up and slide it into the gap.
    4. use a level to ensure it is spot on in all areas Vertical and horizontals.
    at this point if you have to pack the Vert jamb to get it flush then do so.
    If you need to pack it and it sits there spot on. take it back out and take the thickness off the bottom of the oppsong Vert jamb to get it to sit properly at the bottom.
    5. I only ever screw the jambs to the existing studs. The screws go behind the door stops so you can't see them later. This alos ensure you can get the jamb perfectly vertical. if the packer needs to be a little thicker or thinner its an easy job to add or reduce them.
    6. As i said the jamb is oversize. In your case i would make it about 25mm wider than the existing wall.
    7. What yoiu are aiming to do when you fit the jamb now that its over size is to get to perfectly vertical and rounghly centralised. jamb will be sticking out all over the place either side of the wall but don't worry about it.
    8. Once it is screwed in place i thne fit all the architraves. There will be gaps anywhere from zero to maybe 10mm behind the architrave.
    9. On period homes these Archtraves maybe 125mm wide and all molded.
    10. I machine some generally WRC 35 x 10 and the full length of the architrave. I then place the flat strip against the wall and scribe and plane till it fits spot on againt the wall. With old plaster this can take a little time.
    Once it is fitting perecftly against wall and against the side of the architrave. I then run my pencil down the edge of the archtrave. I then cut it about 5mm higher then the archtirave plane it to the line then use fine brads and nail it to the side of the archtrave all round. I have it higher than the existing as it looks like its part of the Architrave and not some tac on
    The end result is a perfectly hung door and a perfectly fitting architrave that is reality is out to buggery. Took me awhile to come up with this process. Its works really well and is quicker than trying to work out what is wrong what is right with the walls.
    Sinjin

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    2,035

    Default

    The simplest way with no tools to check if the jambs are parallel (or out) is to stand back on one side and line up by sight the front edge of the jamb closest to you with the back edge of the jamb furtherest away. Then adjust accordingly.

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