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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by makka619 View Post
    Ah, how exactly are you being rude? I am taking this as a question.

    I have about 10 listings under Carpenters. I said that some have said they 'don't do it'; I didn't say that they don't have the ability to do it. Some work on large contract job sites. Others specialise in particular areas, such as cabinets. The rest I haven't being able to get through to.


    I didn't go into detail about why they can't/won't/don't do it, because I didn't think it was relevant. All I wanted to know is if there are any other areas I should look for in the phone book to find someone who does this.
    Not meaning to be rude at all makka, sorry you took it that way. It's just that I've always made up my own skirting boards and architraves for every home I've built. It gives the client a choice to have something different.

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  3. #17
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    Aug 2004
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    Perth WA
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    Try "Home Maintence and Repairs" in the Yellow Pages

  4. #18
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    Oct 2006
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    australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by attie View Post
    Not meaning to be rude at all makka, sorry you took it that way. It's just that I've always made up my own skirting boards and architraves for every home I've built. It gives the client a choice to have something different.


    Ah, I was just stating that your post was NOT rude. I didn't find it rude, there was nothing personal in it as far as I remember.

    "How exactly are you being rude?" was meant that I was confused as to why you would think I would find it rude...........

  5. #19
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    Oct 2006
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    australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod1949 View Post
    Try "Home Maintence and Repairs" in the Yellow Pages
    Rod, Thankyou!!!!

    That is exactly what I was looking for. Although I did already find it a while ago.

    LOL

  6. #20
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    Apr 2005
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by attie View Post
    I've always made up my own skirting boards and architraves for every home I've built. It gives the client a choice to have something different.
    It doesn't take that long if you're getting your square dressed cheaper, but is it that much cheaper or are you just giving the client more options?
    I made my own profile similar to a colonial mould with my power saw ages ago. That was before I had a router, and I had the material out of a demolition I did anyway so it cost me nothing but a bit of juice to run the saw and planer.

    Of course if you're starting with a tree from your backyard and a chainsaw mill then you'd save heaps.


  7. #21
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    Oct 2006
    Location
    australia
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    So, I gave up finding someone to do it for me, and took all ya'lls advice to do it myself.

    Bought the skirting boards today...

    Got 27m (5 lengths). Plus the guy threw in an extra one

    MDF primed and ready to paint, cut and install.

    Just need to find an appropriate cutting tool and I am on my way.


    Quote Originally Posted by Trav View Post
    I just replaced all the skirting baords in my house. I ended up buying pre-primed MDF skirts from bunnings. Installing is pretty easy - but can be a little fiddly as you try and get the right length and tight mitres on outside corners.

    Big hint would be to paint them before installing. Cut, then dry fit, then paint then install. I wish I painted before I installed, but my wife assured me that we would be hiring painters. Now it appears that I am the hired painter...

    Trav


    Any tips for cutting nice fitting corners?


  8. #22
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    Sep 2002
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    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by makka619 View Post
    ...Any tips for cutting nice fitting corners?

    Makita SCMS or a Jet Supersaw. (both still on my wish list )
    Cliff.
    If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Cabramatta West NSW
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    8

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    Use a fine tooth blade when makeing cuts. This will give you a better finish
    YOU ARE WHAT YOU MAKE OF YOURSELF
    BE PROUD AND
    LIVE LIFE TO THE MAX
    PEPSIMAX7UP

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    Quote Originally Posted by makka619 View Post
    So, I gave up finding someone to do it for me, and took all ya'lls advice to do it myself.

    Bought the skirting boards today...

    Got 27m (5 lengths). Plus the guy threw in an extra one

    MDF primed and ready to paint, cut and install.

    Just need to find an appropriate cutting tool and I am on my way.






    Any tips for cutting nice fitting corners?


    Makka619,

    If the skirting has a shape to it, ie colonial etc, then you scribe the joints you DON'T mitre them. This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting and on the line created by this cut you use a coping saw and follow the profile created slightly under cutting in the process, this will produce a very neat tight joint.

    The first board to be installed is the one you see as you first enter the room. The board has just square cut ends. Then you scribe the adjacent boards into this one and so on.

    Hope this helps. I'm sure someone will come up with a sketch or picture.

  11. #25
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    Oct 2006
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    australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod1949 View Post
    Makka619,

    If the skirting has a shape to it, ie colonial etc, then you scribe the joints you DON'T mitre them. This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting and on the line created by this cut you use a coping saw and follow the profile created slightly under cutting in the process, this will produce a very neat tight joint.

    The first board to be installed is the one you see as you first enter the room. The board has just square cut ends. Then you scribe the adjacent boards into this one and so on.

    Hope this helps. I'm sure someone will come up with a sketch or picture.
    Thanks for the replies.

    I looked up all the terms so I could understand the reply better. Anyway, it's not colonial, it is more like a bullnose, but instead of being rounded off at the top, it is a flat 45 degree angle. If that makes sense.

    Just so were on the same page, this is scribe

    http://www.sheridan-uk.com/wood/images/join3.jpg

    and this is mitre

    http://www.sheridan-uk.com/wood/images/join3.jpg

    I looked up the terms and thats what I got. But from reading your reply (This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting) it sounds as though you are saying that they are opposite (colonial is a 45 degree angle, mitre is flat cut.)

    I am probably misinterpreting your post but I just wanted to clear this up. Are you saying that I don't do 45 degree cuts as in the pic of the Mitre for each one but straight cuts or the other way around.

    Yes, I am confusing you and myself both.

  12. #26
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    Aug 2004
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    Perth WA
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    I looked up the terms and thats what I got. But from reading your reply (This means that you cut a 45 degree angle throught the thickness on the end of the skirting)

    [/quote]

    Seems your on the right track. I just did a search for "Mitre Scribing" on this site which came up with a few threads, some of the threads had useful links.

    Otherewise just mitre your joints and play around with them until they fit or fill em with putty.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Brisbane
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    Macca, I just went through installing Skirting boards myself. I read all of the posts on here about "scribing" etc, and it confused and scared me both at the same time. My wife selected the fanciest colonial pattern, and I think it is 190 mm high. All I did was use an electric compound mitre saw and cut them both on 45 degree angles, then whacked them together With a SMALL amount of no more gaps, then painted over, they have come up great (even if I do say so myself )

    We primed ours before installing them, then painted them with the top coat once installed as I had to putty up the nail holes, then sand them smooth etc.

    The other tricky part to this will be to see whether your room corners are square. If not it makes a big difference. I was lucky that I had rebuilt 2 of the walls so was fairly happy with the rooms squareness, if that is a word

    Alex

  14. #28
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    Apr 2005
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    It's not that hard scribing. AFAIC it's quicker, easier, and gives you a perfect joint, because you don't have to be as accurate with your measurements. There's a knack to holding the coping saw so you undercut a bit and leave a slightly acute angle at the face. It ends up nice and tight when you push it against the piece that you're working to.


  15. #29
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    Oct 2006
    Location
    australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexJ66 View Post
    Macca, I just went through installing Skirting boards myself. I read all of the posts on here about "scribing" etc, and it confused and scared me both at the same time. My wife selected the fanciest colonial pattern, and I think it is 190 mm high. All I did was use an electric compound mitre saw and cut them both on 45 degree angles, then whacked them together With a SMALL amount of no more gaps, then painted over, they have come up great (even if I do say so myself )

    We primed ours before installing them, then painted them with the top coat once installed as I had to putty up the nail holes, then sand them smooth etc.

    The other tricky part to this will be to see whether your room corners are square. If not it makes a big difference. I was lucky that I had rebuilt 2 of the walls so was fairly happy with the rooms squareness, if that is a word

    Alex
    Awesome, thanks.


    Where can I get diagrams of scribing/mitreing? I have been reading other threads/ google. My head hurts.

  16. #30
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    Apr 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by makka619 View Post
    Where can I get diagrams of scribing/mitreing? I have been reading other threads/ google. My head hurts.
    Have a look at this. I found it doing a search of this site, and it came from here.
    Don't use the tracing method on page three. I'd use the mitre cut method on page four. I'd cut it from the top and not the bottom. I'd use a handsaw for the straight part. Undercut it a bit so theirs a slight acute angle at the front edge. When you push it hard against the abutting piece it should be nice and tight. But before you cut it, check that the piece that you're butting against is square from the floor. If it's not you can adjust your mitre cut to suit by checking the angle with a bevel.


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