Thread: "Hollow" wall for sliding door

Are you talking about a cavity slider? You can get kits at any door store or Bunnnings.

The wall that has the shower on it, is it the wall that has the plumbing fittings on it? If so, then you will be well out of luck, unless you want to reposition them to an adjacent wall.

The ' cavity lider' unit is the full width of the door + enclosure whenc onstructed. Therefore you have to have a lintel inplace to support any load on the stud wall either side of the whole opening too.

When you have constructed the cavity slider frame (not very hard) and attached it to the jamb studs you plaster straight over the whole wall to the door jamb of the slider unit. They look pretty good (we have two), but not easy to retrofit - they have to be planned out early. And it's not just plumbing that can't be in the way - you can't nail any fixtures into that part of the wall. Sounds obvious I know, but most bathrooms are pretty small, and there are lots of little fixtures to hang off the wall.
Cheers
Elphingirl

If you want to,you could batten the bathroom side to give room for pipes,and to allow for the lip on the shower base.

Tools

One other "minor" detail: I really don't recommend tiling the wall over a cavity door. Sure, the better ones have angle iron down each side of the jamb to reduce flex, but they will still flex given a big enough nudge. eg. Someone collecting it with an elbow as they walk past, or stumbling as they towel 'emselves off. You know, the little, everyday bathroom knocks.

The tiles may not fall off, but it's a sure bet the grout will crack. Very ugly...

Thanks for the replies. Still a bit confused, but should be clearer when I see one of the cavity sliders. The door is opposite the taps, and I plan to line it with Lamipanel.

JB,
how are you planning on fixing your lamipanel? From memory the cavity slider has only got 12mm thick or less pine "framing". Generally you glue on yopur gyprock or villaboard and whack in a few temporary screws. I usually put these temporary screws through a small scap of timber or gyprock so that there's no way that they will be forgotten. Once the glue has set you remove the screws and patch holes.

The troule with lamipanel is that the sheets can sometimes have a bit of bow to them. If you want to fix them with glue only, it's usually neccesary to "tom" them against the wall while the glue sets. The pressure of this may bow the cavity slider framing in and it may stay like this. Conversely the bow of the sheet may pull the framing out. Lamipanel is usually pretty flat, but I have had to struggle with it on occasions to get it right. If you do screw it, just make sure you use screws short enough to prevent any damage to you door.

Mick

PS I hate cavity sliders! I've seen them jam up because the afternoon sun warped the frame enough to stop the door opening.:mad: