Thread: MDF Architraves

Nail them with a T nailer or say 50mm bullet nails pre drilled. This is the two ways I did mine as borrowing of tools allowed.

Then I punched the bullet nails in about 2mm. The T nails already went in 2-3mm from the gun. Then I used a fine filler using a metal filling scraper. Pushing hard, the filler went into the small holes almost perfectly to the level of the MDF arc. I just whipped quickly over the tops of the filled holes with some #320 paper and painted.

Maybe the filler is too proud, or the filler is too hard. Use some easy sand 'fine' filler and press it hard into the holes so only the hole is filed and no filler is left on top of the surrounding arc.

I use a brad nailer and set the power so that they are recessed 1 to 2 mm. This type of material is very hard to use with hand tools, even pre drill will cause the hole to rise.

You could try undercoating before filling, this also provides a level of protection to the mdf. Generally timbermate or similar struck level with a scrapper is all you need, it shouldn't be necessary to sand.

John

Originally Posted by johnc

You could try undercoating before filling, this also provides a level of protection to the mdf. Generally timbermate or similar struck level with a scrapper is all you need, it shouldn't be necessary to sand.

John

What is timbermate?

Originally Posted by alisonol

What is timbermate?

Aussie made timber filler. Pretty good stuff. Can get it at Bunnings and other good hardware retailers. http://www.timbermate.com.au

Thanks for that.

One more question.


Can I sand the back of the mdf architrave without it falling apart?
I have some depth issues to contend with and if I can sand the back of it I will be ok.
Or will I need to buy timber architrave so I can sand it?

I also glue all my arcs, skirts etc, because over time, if they aren't glued, they will crack along the paint lines, due to the vibrations etc when the doors/windows close get slammed etc. (simple pva eg aquadhere).
Cheers
TM

Hi Dave

I have recently used part finished (undercoat only ) mdf skirting boards for a reno i did they where being stuck to a plastered wall so a little different from the sounds of things ,but i just used liquid nails and a bead of no more gaps to hide the gap between the board and the wall .i found that having a large number of bricks on hand to prop against the boards prevented them from moving away from the wall .Where i had raised spots in the wall i just carved out the back of the skirt with a chisel or a stanley knife ..