Thread: Mitres are like Golf

What you need is an angle divider like a Stanley 30 (See attached image) or the modern equivalent from Nobex which is actually better.

Alternatively, learn to disect an angle using a bevel guage and a compass.

1. Measure the angle using the bevel guage.

2. Draw the angle using the bevel guage.

3. Bisect the angle using a compass.

4. Use new angle to cut material.

Yes there is still some skill involved but it is not insurmountable for someone of reasonable intelligence.

I didnt mitre any outside corners on my skirts - I cut them square them shaped the upper, routed section with a jigsaw, fitted with a ground down metal sutting blade. Worked fine, especially when none of the walls were square ot each other.

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THe only thing I had to really think through was which way was best to have the "exposed" join. These were painted of course - stained would be a different ballgame

All you need is two pieces of shortish scrap material. Cut them both on a 45, then keep adjusting the angle on the scms until it's right, then cut your mitre's on the skirting. Easy....

Cut them a bit sharper than 45 then at least they will be closed at the front. A bit of bog hides the gap if there is one. Nothing worse than an open mitre.

Originally Posted by maglite

ARRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHH,
i have come to the conclusion that doing outside mitres is like playing golf.
ie: you get it right once and then start to dream that you can do it as well as the pro's all the time.
Talk about being bitten on the a*rse.

Love the quote, it sums it up perfectly, same as doing plaster cornice mitres, I use twice as much cornice than I need, just to get the mitres right.

You can adjust them with a plane and a shooting board. It might take a bit longer but you will get good results.

PS I am a Darksider

I am about to start the same job today.. I know none of my external corners will be straight so I am going to take on board some of the tips here..
Thanks guys..

To adjust a mitre less than or greater than 45 degrees, it can be better to use a small piece of scrap between your workpiece and the end of the SCMS fence to fine tune the fit, rather than altering the saw's mitre setting a poofteenth each try.


Cheers.............Sean, trying with all my mitre

I resurrect this thread to tell a funny but true story of difficult skirting-board fitting.
A builder Mate was called to the home of the mother of his daughter's best friend - love jobs, and favours for friends. You know what I mean?
Anyway, the elderly mother (an Italian widow) had a bad experience with termites and wanted never to face that again.
HINGED skirting throughout the giant of a house and inside all cupboards is what she wanted.
Now if you think about this you quickly realize mitred corners won't work, and the ornate 200mm skirting HAD to be retained.

My Mate could be found, with his head in his hands, at the pub bar every night for the next month.

Thats easy.
Put corner blocks in and just square cut the skirt.

Al

I tend to start with the mathematical approach, per Mark's post, then with a trial cut on some scrap, adjust using the empirical method that Martrix refers to.

It can be time consuming, but actually not that hard.

What can make like difficult are out-of-plumb vertical surfaces onto which the mitre-cut pieces such as beading are going to be fitted. Well, when it comes to furniture, there's only me to blame for that

Lay a piece of the skirt against the wall and allow it to go past the corner a couple of inches. Draw a pencil line on the floor against the bottom of the skirt. Lay a second piece against the second wall and mark with a pencil along its base. The angle needed will become obvious by the marks on the floor. Does this help?
Jim

Things went well ths end.

Mr. Selleys is wonderful

Same as 'powderpost' - plus mark the skirt at floor level where the lines intersect. Mark the inside top of the skirt at the wall corner.
Draw a line up the skirt from the bottom mark & then draw across from the top mark to give you the cut line. Usually on exys the problem is a curved surface where the plasterer has built out the corner. Make sure the skirt is pushed fully back before marking the floor.