Thread: Remove Condensation & insulate shed

Sarking is supposed to be overlapped so any water trickling down it doesnt go through, it is then supposed to extend past the walls under the eaves. There is not going to be too much condensation once the roof is sealed up anyway, an open garage allows much more moisture to reach the roof in the air. You would want to use sarking with batts anyway. Sarking works by reflecting radiant heat on one side (top or bottom) as well as the reflective surface not re-radiating heat even when hot, thus working as a heat barrier (batts simply slow the passage of heat from one side to the other).

I would use a product like foilboard under the tin, it is excellent at stopping radiant heat as well as a polystyrene layer for bulk insulation. It is easy and clean to install and works well. It also is not affected by condensation. A 2400x1400 sheet is about $21 for 10mm and $23 for 15mm. I get it straight from the manufacturers in Dissik street in Cheltenham, some larger bunnings have 10mm in stock but would have to order 15mm. I recommend 15mm, it is far more rigid.

I recently pulled all the plaster off my external walls in our bedrooms and put foilboard between the studs, much warmer and quieter (very good at sound deadening) than the uninsulated weatherboards that we had. I am expecting the west walls to be much cooler in summer as well when they get full sun from midday until dusk. I am a big convert, love the stuff. Have a pack of 20 sheets in the garage ready to nail up under the floorboards when I get keen.

Cheers
Ben

Sorry to jump in on this one but I have been thinking of doing the same on the farm - it is a barn style shed - metal battons - any thoughts on how to attach the foam?

Originally Posted by robri

.... - it is a barn style shed - metal battons - any thoughts on how to attach the foam?

Don't use nails.....

Nah, joking..... if you want to use nails, go right ahead BUT, remember, I told you so.

I'm interested too, I have a metal shed that I now want to seal from the inside with plywood sheeting & some sort of insulation.
I've been told that firbre bats are useless if you have more than 5% moisture content. ???
I didn't want to use fibre bats 'cos I hate the stuff after having to run cables in ceilings.
I found this stuff the other day.... & then lost it again... D'oh!

Found it... (struth ) http://www.protherm.com.au/

One of the builders we work with has been using a lot of this lately:

http://www1.air-cell.com.au

Looks pretty empressive from many counts.

cheers,

P

Last year I lined my shed (roof and walls) with insulation batts and gyprock. Just put some extra timber framing between the metal frames. Very pleased with it so far: comfortable summer and winter.

See thread

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=18081

for some pics.

Originally Posted by robri

Sorry to jump in on this one but I have been thinking of doing the same on the farm - it is a barn style shed - metal battons - any thoughts on how to attach the foam?

You can buy clips that you could rivet to the metal battens that you then push the foilboard onto. On the inside you then attach more metal battens designed to clip into the clips where they poke through the insulation, you then gyprock (I would plywood a shed) into them (plasterboard screws go straight in). You will then have a consistent cavity on each side of the foilboard (10-15mm is all it needs) with minimum thickness.
Cheers
Ben

I was thinking of using the batts because it had a higher R value than other insulation. If I use the foilboard (Polystyrene), I guess my shed becomes one big esky. I had thought of using melanine (say 6mm) as a celing because it is light, easy to handle, it only has to support its own weight, its cheap and it is already white which helps the illumination in the workshop.

I have lined my shed with 10mm sheets with polyester insulation (about 1/2 an inch thick) between the sheets and the metal skin.
I was given a roll of insulation for gratis which was enough to do all of the shed walls. Garage (shed) is 7.5 metres by 5.5 metres by 3 metres.
The wall lining sheets are 10mm craftwood with a covering on one side so they don't need painting. THey came out of an office block in the city that was being refurbished. The mate that was doing the job had 140 sheets of (7 feet by 3 feet) the stuff. he threw most of them in the tip because he did not have room to store them. When I spoke to him he had about 30 sheets left, enough to line a garage.

Cliff old bean, I use aircell on my roof and it is self supporting, the beams hold it in place.
Shed is warmer, no drips (except when some BB members drop by ) and cooler in summer.
As I have clear panels (2 each side on a 12 metre run) I do not park any machinery under them, not that I have noticed any condensation on these panels, no idea why, anyone explain?
I just looked at your link and it looks like a similar product but I don't know that it is as rigid, Aircell is ribbed and when rolled out will not flex along the ribs, the roll matches the pitch of the roof in width and rolls out to the required length.
I had mine fitted while the shed was being built and the installation cost was minimal, and saved me going up there, I do not like ladders.

Condensation??? getting into the insulation???
Think about it.
It condenses out of the air due to contact with the cool roof. Insulation prevents contact, no condensation.

As far as holding insulation onto steel sheeting. Spray glue. ( sprayable contact cement.
Cut your bats to size, spray with glue, spray sheeting, stick up, sheet up over the top at your leasure.
Polyester bats are less itchy and stay together better than fibregalss.
cheers

Originally Posted by Iain

Cliff old bean, I use aircell on my roof and it is self supporting, ..... I do not like ladders.

Cool, where'd you get it?

I have 5 ladders... they must be like clamps & coathangers.... :confused:

http://www1.air-cell.com.au/pages/contact.aspx#details

I've been following this thread with great interest, as insulating my non-existant shed is something I want to do. Bit of a story, bear with me. It's been raining (finally!) in Toowoomba for the last few days, as well as being warm and foggy. It cleared up a bit last night and, of course, we had the heavy dew and fog etc etc. Anyway, went outside under the corrugated iron patio this morning for my regular wakeup with coffee and nature and immediately got dripped on by the condensation that was on the underside of the iron. I looked up and couldn't believe that the iron was soaked and dripping wet!!!
If this is what the inside of my future shed could be like, I'm *so* going to insulate it, regardless of what local council regulations are.

Local Council regs say that if I insulate my shed, it's a workshop and has to be built to liveable standards, which will end up decreasing the size of the shed and greatly increase the cost of it:mad: .

Ah well, still in the stages of working out how to turn the dream in to a planned reality

cheers
RufflyRustic

One more question - is appears to be better to leave a gap between the actual metal roof material and the insulation as additional insulation factor and to ensure that there isn't heat transfer through the insulation 0 or that is what I am reading. It would therefore be less beneficial to glue the insulation to the roof metal - which is an easy option. I thought it would be better to attach the insulation to the underside of the rafter - or top hat. These are about 1.3 - 2 metres at a guess. Any thoughts on how??

Originally Posted by rufflyrustic

Local Council regs say that if I insulate my shed, it's a workshop and has to be built to liveable standards, which will end up decreasing the size of the shed

Discreetly find out what council definition of insultion is before panicking, I would certainly not describe a piece of foil (regardless of how high tech) as full insulation, call it condensation proof.
Fortunately we don't have such a regulation (we have other strange one's though) and I can do anyhting I like inside.
Ascertain that insulation does not mean full insulation, eg: ceiling and walls, or do you need a ceiling, is an insulated roof classed as a ceiling or is that the flat false bit under the roof.