Thread: Advice Please.

Most of my male relatives on my father's side, were into racing axes. All had wooden axe boxes. As I remember, they were cedar, for which I was eternaly greatfull as they, to a young boy, were still pretty heavy. Dad's held three plus sharpening gear. Uncle Ted's held five. The boxes were as light as a feather when empty but you knew when they were loaded.

Hey Rusty, thanks very much for the reply. Cedar?? makes sense, yeah you would know when the were loaded, esp the box with 5 in it! Its a good choice for timber I guess, would finish very well. I thought Oregon as well if I can get it. Strong yet light. Dont know how it would come up though. Did you ever pick up the axe?

Yeah Rick, did a bit of chopping when I was young but an extensive rugby union career left me with several injuries that were a bit too debilitating.......loss of sight in one eye, metal elbow, dislocated scapular and shot knees. Not exactly the atributes of an axeman. My nextdoor neighbour, who turns 90 in January, raced axes until he was 80. I was only talking to him earlier today and asked him what his box was made of. He said it was coachwood. Again, a good durable and lightweight timber. I can set you up with some cedar if you want some. How are you at dovetails?
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Never done Dovetails in my life! I have a good mate here in town who is a joiner/cabinet maker who Im sure could help me. Yes I would agree that coachwood would also be a great timber. Those injuries sound pretty horrific so its no wonder why you put the axe down! Ive just posed some pics of the axes I bought last night (and the stones also) In the general woodworking area under Anyone Else?? some cedar, I would be interested in depending on price. I may have access to some free Oregon also. Was going to finsih tyhe box with Tung Oil and inset my name in the lid on a brass plaque.

Your stone case in the photo is silky oak. That would also be a nice wood for your box. Its a lot harder than cedar and wouldnt mark as much. Shouldn't an Aussie axeman be using an Aussie timber for his box, ie coachwood, red cedar, silky oak etc, rather than oregon? Its bad enough having to use hickory for dandles! Tung oil is the go, three coats, allow to dry between coats. When last coat is dry, polish with Gemini floor polish.
A bit of work to do on some of those heads. Have you tried the Japanese water stones? They are a bit sacraficial, but boy, they give a good edge. I like a 1200 grit and then a 6000 or 8000 for a final finish. Shave sharp and no bur.

ah ok. Yeah yeah I should be using Aussie timber your right there. I like AOregon though, it is a nice timber. Although cedar, tas oak and coachwood. Hmm Red gum would be nice also.

Tas oak is just glorified stringy and red gum? Gees, you'd need Dave Foster to cart it arround! If you do decide to go with oregon, just be aware of gum bleed, particularly in hot conditions. The only way I know to stop it, is to scortch the timber with a blow torch first. Then dress off the scorch marks. Even then, it can still bleed. I'd go silky if it was mine. Now this will try your joiner mate out; nice dovetail joints in all corners and, wait for it, dovetail the top and bottom in as well. Make the box up complete. Scribe a line arround the box about 50mm down from the top then cut the lid, including short 50mm sides, with a tennon saw with the sawback removed. Fit a thin strip of the chosen timber (SILKY OAK) with a rounded top edge to the inside of the top edge of the box mitred at the ends and sticking up the height of the round. When the lid is hinged and closed this strip forms a dust and weather seal. Fit some metal case corners and you've got a serious axe box. Just a thought.

Phowaar! Thats awesome, Ill be copy n pasting that and print so Viv can take a look at it. Get some brass for the corners as well. Thanks mate! thats sounds like an awesome result!!