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Thread: Aligning strap hinges first go
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12th October 2019, 10:08 PM #31
Looking at the photos of those hinges in the link they are 100 times nicer looking and better made hinge than the budget priced ones we are dealing with. The radiused knuckle looks so much classier than the chunky square end that sticks out. I'm not sure why the cheaper hinges don't have that same design as I would have thought it was no more difficult to manufacture. I look forward to the day when I think my boxmaking can justify the value of Andrew's hinges.
All the little tips and tricks that get shared on here are greatly appreciated and hopefully lead us all to a better outcome as time goes on.Dallas
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12th October 2019 10:08 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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13th October 2019, 07:53 AM #32
I'm with Woodpixel. I had the good fortune to visit Andrew last year, and saw the lengths he goes to to ensure the quality of his products. He put a lot of effort into developing his design, and has had repeated problems finding manufacturers who can maintain his standards when production ramps up. Plus, of course, having his design ripped off by a powerful company.
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13th October 2019, 05:51 PM #33GOLD MEMBER
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I've had this idea ticking over in my mind for a week or so, after I was making new fences for my new Gifkin router table, (which I love). Then this idea co incides with this thread. The photos tell the story. Basically the stop block is part of the fence. No more clamping of the pipe like I used to. I've made 3 very accurate spacer blocks from aluminium, 26mm, 28mm and 34mm, for the 3 hinges I use. I had some offcut of that piece of HDPE cutting board I bought for that router sled left over. So I made some height measurements for the heights I use. I do a test cut on scrap to make sure its bang on 3mm.
This arvo I routered the hinge slots in 3 boxes and pretty happy with the outcome.
Paul
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14th October 2019, 04:15 AM #34Member
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Woodpixel, I agree, as I have been on line with him as well and he does seem like a great guy. I would love to take one of his classes to learn more and I do feel bad for him with all the bad luck he has had. It's just frustrating that he has had this much bad luck with a lot of his ventures as they all seem to not work out or are still on hold or don't get completed as they all seem like they would be great for box making. I guess I am just saying I have waited for some of his products and they just never seem to come to market. New book, Smart disk,Smart corner all stating coming soon and all over a year old of coming soon? I know he is only one guy trying to do a lot but over promising is not a good thing and I feel hurts one's reputation.
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14th October 2019, 01:14 PM #35
He is an ideas guy and super enthusiastic.
I am EXACTLY the same and feel for him.
A lot of what I want to do... goes nowhere
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14th October 2019, 01:25 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
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Paul,
I like your idea of stops attached directly to the fence. Here’s my setup - not quite as directly attached. The low UHMWPE fence is attached to an MDF board. Both are 1-2 mm off the table to prevent chip buildup. The stops are from Jonathan Katz-Moses. If you haven’t seen his uTube channel it is well worth a look. The stops are rock solid with no deflection; I set them a little above the table - again to avoid chip buildup.
B1E207D2-CEB1-4AF4-972C-5BA078E7C9A3.jpeg
5378A40A-1DA5-4EB7-8761-148FA54F9518.jpeg
4A7C4E37-CF54-4BFA-AE40-71877D33E3A3.jpeg
Many different paths up the mountain!
Brian
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14th October 2019, 05:21 PM #37GOLD MEMBER
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Hi and thanks Brian, Yes a lot of different paths up the mountain but they all end up at the same place. When I read your descriptive article on your router set up in previous threads I couldnt quite visualise it, now I can. Very nice. That sure is a solid fence you have on your router table, the main one that is. Pretty much works identical to the one I just built, made all from bits and pieces I had laying around. My knobs with 1/4inch threads on them, tighten into what is called a joiner in the trophy industry, for making 1/4 inch threaded rods longer. Works perfectly for an idea like mine. I picked up several one day at a trophy shop up in Coffs Harbour. I was surprised with those knobs that with very little tightening, makes that stop as solid as, no chance of it moving.
I am heading up to Coffs Harbour on Wednesday for some running around and was going to see if one of the plastic shops up there sold that UHM stuff for more fences. Just debating now whether I really need it. I've made a handful of fences already, basically a different one for each cutter, all from MDF. And they are all working fine. Say for example for a panel raising bit. Just swivel your fence across the bit and it creates the shape, make it a big higher for raising your cutter and your pretty set up for future routering of your lid panel insert. Etc Etc.
Paul
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14th October 2019, 09:58 PM #38GOLD MEMBER
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I agree, Paul. UHMWPE isn’t at all essential - I like it because it is low friction and handles knocks well, but if I didn’t have it I wouldn’t lose any sleep.
Do you get two fences out of one each time by using both edges of the fence (front and back)?
Another possible “tweak” would be to rout a channel all along the top of your fence and drop in a piece of aluminium mitre slot extrusion so your stops have unlimited range along the fence. A tip - an engineer friend of mine uses curtain rail track from Bunnings for this.....
I do like your table, Paul. Ideal for a boxmaker - no unnecessary channels or holes for stuff to get snagged on.
Brian
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14th October 2019, 10:27 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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Hey Brian, Curtain rail track,..!!!,...hmm not a bad idea. I just googled it for Bunnings but no results come up. I'll be at Bunnings on Wednesday and check this out. And I do like your idea of a continuous runner in the centre of an MDF fence, the mind boggles. Could be used for numerous things. One that comes to mind quickly is routering those legs on the bottom of boxes. Not sure if you use that trick, but mark where your legs will be cut, say 45mm in on the fronts and say 35mm in on the sides. Set your stop block up only on the right hand side with your timber on the router (bit protruding out 3mm leaving another 3mm up to base) ready to go and also resting against your stop block. Router across half way then flip the timber over and do the other half.
And no I never worry about using both sides of my fence, MDF is that cheap. The pivot holes in the table take a 8M thread. So I bought ten appropriate knobs on ebay. Drill a 8mm hole in the fence and when the knob slips through into the pivot hole, there is no play at all, very snug.
Thanks again,
Paul
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15th October 2019, 09:22 PM #40GOLD MEMBER
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Here is my slitting saw, its actually a saw blade for a metalwork milling machine and has no set or very little. I just give it a rub with some beeswax frequently and seems to work for me. Hopefully Dengue will come and collect it, give it a try and write up his views on it. Just ignore the rough welding when I made the mandrel, as I welded it left handed when my right hand was injured. It also has some watermarks from my cleaning attempts.
rgds,
Crocy.
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