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  1. #1
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    Default Australian red cedar & Qld silver ash trinket boxes.

    Earlier this year I was given a large amount of Australian red cedar. Most of it is in large recycled boards, but there were some small pieces that had been pigeon-hole dividers. I also happened to have some offcuts of Qld silver ash, and a bit of spare time while waiting for a part to be supplied by the client for my next commission. What to make?
    I decided to make a batch of five small legged boxes, approximately 140mm square, just in time for Mothers Day.

    Boxes 3.jpg

    Boxes 2.jpg
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  3. #2
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    Lovely boxes, Alex. Interesting design. Both are beautiful timbers. What are they finished with?

    Brian

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    Lovely boxes, Alex. Interesting design. Both are beautiful timbers. What are they finished with?

    Brian
    Thanks Homey, they're finished with Kunos oil. Will probably give them a couple of buffing coats.
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  5. #4
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    Nice design makes them look lighter than if they were sitting flat on a table. How do you cut the vee in the legs to fit the corners?
    Dallas

  6. #5
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    Yes as all the comments above and I'm also intersted as to how you did the "V" at the corner legs. I can only assume it was carefully and painstakingly done by hand.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  7. #6
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    Nice
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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod1949 View Post
    Yes as all the comments above and I'm also intersted as to how you did the "V" at the corner legs. I can only assume it was carefully and painstakingly done by hand.
    I was of two minds about showing this, as it's not something I suggest others do. I spent quite a while thinking about all the things that could go wrong, and how I'd avoid them. If you plan to try this, please do the same. Remember, the workpiece is small, the push stick is close to the blade and so are your fingers. What will happen if something slips? You won't have time to react, so plan your work so that your hands won't go towards the blade, and nothing will be thrown towards you. A push stick is a safety tool, but not if it gets driven through your wrist.

    I cut the 'V' on the tablesaw.
    Using pieces of scrap the same thickness as the legs as test pieces, and a 45* zero clearance insert, I set the fence and the blade height so that it cut out half the 'V'. You need to be sure that the blade only cuts into the face that will have the 'V', not the side of the leg.

    Leg 1.jpg
    Leg 2.jpg
    Leg 3.jpg

    Using a push stick that I made years ago for holding pieces close to the blade, I cut both halves of the V.

    Leg 4.jpg
    Leg 5.jpg
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  9. #8
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    Is the blade something you've had specially sharpened to a flat top grind Alex?

    If possible it's always safer to do these types of cuts on a larger section of stock and then cut it to the final dimension. Of course that's assuming you have the material in a larger section to begin with.

    I'm a big believer in just letting things fly when I feel anything going wrong when working close to the blade. And, of course, there are those of us who should never attempt a cut like this. Good job pointing out the potential pitfalls.

  10. #9
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    Thanks for the info. It all makes sense now.
    Dallas

  11. #10
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    Is the blade something you've had specially sharpened to a flat top grind Alex?
    No, it's just a normal blade. I do have a flat top blade for cutting slots, but it's not necessary here.

    If possible it's always safer to do these types of cuts on a larger section of stock and then cut it to the final dimension.
    Yes, in this case, it would have been wiser to leave the legs longer and cut them to length later. I don't think wider sections would make much difference.

    I'm a big believer in just letting things fly when I feel anything going wrong when working close to the blade.
    For sure, insofar as you have any choice. If you try to stop things happening, you won't be fast enough anyway, and you run the risk of putting your hand somewhere it shouldn't be. You can always get another piece of wood.
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  12. #11
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    Could a v-groove router bit do the job? Still need to keep fingers away.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrism3 View Post
    Could a v-groove router bit do the job? Still need to keep fingers away.
    Probably, but the difficulty might be lining the centre of the bit up with the centre of the leg. Also, it would also require a zero clearance insert around the bit. Still, as with most things in woodwork, there is usually more than one way that will work.
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  14. #13
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    As always, nice work Alex.
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

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