Thread: Banksia Nuts and Rock Maple.

Hi Lplates,
Thanks for your comments. If you look at an earlier post I have described how I have made these hinges. I detailed the method here.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f87/te...nt-box-156337/
Hope this helps.

Don't forget I've some timber blackbean free of charge here for you to collect..... you always need stock.....
Greg

Thanks Greg, I will come and see you next week.
many thanks

Well Done I love the contrasts it is a beautiful job.

stunning work love it!

Originally Posted by Ruddy

Hi Lplates,
Thanks for your comments. If you look at an earlier post I have described how I have made these hinges. I detailed the method here.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f87/te...nt-box-156337/
Hope this helps.

Thank you for the link Ruddy. Your write up is very detailed and informative. I'll have to attempt one of these beauties when i have some spare time. Keep up the good work. Love your work.

Cheers
Mat

Another striking looking box Ruddy ........... and a possible use for that bag of banksia nuts gathering dust in the shed

How is it that the inset panel in the top (maple in maple) doesn't expand and blow out the sides? You have several panels inside another panel, then set in the box sides. There appears to be no wiggle room, so I would fear that any wood movement would be expected!

Hello AlanS,
Movement is always a worry and on this box I wanted the look that the inset lid would create. Firstly the lid inset is made from 12mm thick quarter sawn rock maple and the pocket for the banksia nuts is 10 mm deep. The block of banksia nuts was made up seperately and then glued into the pocket with some clearance. I then routed the grooves about 3 mm deep for the rosewood frame centered over the join line and fitted the rosewood frame. After drying the lid insert was then machined and rough sanded flat. I do not expect to have a major shrinkage/expansion problem with the banksia medallion.
With the lid inset fitting in the boxframe I did the following.
With the box sides all mitered and base glued the feathered miters were fitted into each outside corner.

I rebated the top inside 11 mm deep x about 3 mm using a 8mm diameter spiral cutter.This was done to allow the lid inset to locate and then I made the final machining and sanding to the lid inset so it was a gentle push fit into the rebated box. I put a good taper on the underside of the lid inset so in the final fit it was only the last approx 3 mm where it all touched. The concern with movement is on the ends(sides) where the end grain of the lid inset meets the long grain of the sides. Here the glue line is only about 2 to 3 mm and it is at the top.

The final shapng of the box was then done and was finished with white shellac.
Time will tell if there is sufficent movement that cracks the joint.

Thanks for explaining the construction. I was going to ask how thick you milled the banksia, but you've answered this already.
I think the banksia works beautifully with the maple. Congratulations on a great box.

Originally Posted by Ruddy

Hello AlanS,
Movement is always a worry and on this box I wanted the look that the inset lid would create. Firstly the lid inset is made from 12mm thick quarter sawn rock maple and the pocket for the banksia nuts is 10 mm deep. The block of banksia nuts was made up seperately and then glued into the pocket with some clearance. I then routed the grooves about 3 mm deep for the rosewood frame centered over the join line and fitted the rosewood frame. After drying the lid insert was then machined and rough sanded flat. I do not expect to have a major shrinkage/expansion problem with the banksia medallion.
With the lid inset fitting in the boxframe I did the following.
With the box sides all mitered and base glued the feathered miters were fitted into each outside corner.

I rebated the top inside 11 mm deep x about 3 mm using a 8mm diameter spiral cutter.This was done to allow the lid inset to locate and then I made the final machining and sanding to the lid inset so it was a gentle push fit into the rebated box. I put a good taper on the underside of the lid inset so in the final fit it was only the last approx 3 mm where it all touched. The concern with movement is on the ends(sides) where the end grain of the lid inset meets the long grain of the sides. Here the glue line is only about 2 to 3 mm and it is at the top.

The final shapng of the box was then done and was finished with white shellac.
Time will tell if there is sufficent movement that cracks the joint.

Great explanation of the process, Ruddy. I'm learning a few tricks from you.
Keep up the great work.

I am in awe! The banksia's, the hinges, design and wood choices!! Wonderful!
Max.

Beautiful stuff.

Love the Banksia Nuts. Never really seen these used before, they almost look 3D in the pic taken from above.

Nice hinges too.....

Steven.