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19th April 2015, 09:11 PM #1
Blackwood & Silky Oak Jewellery Box
My latest box, a jewellery box in blackwood for the client's new granddaughter. The trays, handle and escutcheon are in southern silky oak, the lining is pigskin suede leather and the finish is Kunos oil. The engraving on the lid was done by Kopycut of Thornleigh.
The half blind dovetails on sloping sides were a challenge, as was fitting the SmartHinges. I first cut and fitted the dovetails while the sides were still square. After separating the lid, I made a router guide template for the hinge slots and cut them. I made dummy plugs the size of the hinges and put them in the slots, then used double-sided tape to hold the lid and base together while I cut the sloping sides.
I scraped the sides and sanded to 800 grit, gave them a coat of shellac and resanded, before 4+ coats of Kunos oil. The first coat is a flood coat with excess removed after about 15 minutes, and the 3rd coat is applied with 0000 steel wool, with the excess wiped off straight away. After that, very light coats are rubbed in and buffed.
Zara box 1 small.jpg
Zara box 2 small.jpg
Zara box 3 small.jpg
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19th April 2015 09:11 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th April 2015, 09:14 PM #2
Gorges work Alex
Love the slopping sides
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19th April 2015, 10:02 PM #3
Great box, Alex.
Regards,
rob
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20th April 2015, 08:33 PM #4
Beautiful box, workmanship looks second to none.
Love the trays too...the top curve really suits it.
Steven.
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20th April 2015, 10:15 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Your usual excellent work Alex. Sounds like some trickey work went into this one.
Bob
"If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
- Vic Oliver
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21st April 2015, 01:17 PM #6
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21st April 2015, 01:27 PM #7
Excellent work Alex.
Brad.
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21st April 2015, 02:00 PM #8
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21st April 2015, 02:51 PM #9
Alex - very nice job, love the design !
Just out of curiosity, is there any benefit in thinning down the first flood coat of Kunos oil (I have the kunos thinners) to get better penetration into the timber, then follow up with all other coats full strength?? I'm still playing around with kunos on sample pieces trying to get the sort of finish I want. Final coat of a thin wax, or leave just the oil? Kunos have a liquid wax product I believe?
Cheers
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21st April 2015, 03:25 PM #10
Alex a truely exquisite box. I really love the contrast between the angled sides and the curved trays.
Regards Rumnut.
SimplyWoodwork
Qld. Australia.
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21st April 2015, 06:38 PM #11
Thanks gents, glad you like it. As I said, it was a challenge.
Mr Brush, I use Kunos cut 50/50 with bio thinners for all the coats. I haven't tried using full strength. I was given this advice by David MacLaren at Bungendore gallery, and as it seems to work I haven't changed.
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24th April 2015, 05:16 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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Well done Alex, excellent craftmanship. Out of interest, what thickness of timber did you use to start off with? Did you have trouble doing the blind dovetails on that thickness?
regards,
Dengy
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25th April 2015, 04:35 PM #13
Cheers Alex - I'll give that a try.
Have you tried any of the other Kunos finishes in your travels? The Woodage down here were keeping an assortment in the smallest bottle size, which makes it easier to try them out without buying large quantities. I think I might throw out the rest of my Kunos Countertop Oil (its gone a bit cruddy) and start out with some fresh stuff.
Keep the posts coming - love seeing examples of your work.
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25th April 2015, 07:30 PM #14
Thanks gents, glad you like it.
Dengue, I started with 25mm thick, which I dressed down very carefully to about 24mm - I only had to dress the inside face as the outside would later be sawn off.
The main difficulty was cutting the spaces between the pins. Usually they have flat bottoms and can be hogged out with a router. However with the sloping bottoms, you can only route some of it out and have to finish it using a chisel. The other problem was fitting the SmartHinges, which couldn't be done the normal way. I made a router template and stuck it to the box and then the lid to cut them accurately.
Mr. B, I've tried the Livos Ardvos at Leon Sadubin's suggestion. I found it didn't give as high a sheen as Kunos, so it's probably more suitable for his style of larger furniture. For my boxes, I prefer Kunos. Pity, because Ardvos is less expensive. The problem with most oils is that they will form a skin when exposed to air. I've tried a few things, the most successful ones are using a sheet of glad-wrap, pushed down onto the surface of the oil, and various sized concertina bottles with the air squeezed out.
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25th April 2015, 10:08 PM #15
I thought I'd commented on this
Noice box and the idea of the sloping sides is brillregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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