Thread: Blade for mitre key slots

Freud have got a good selection of thin kerf blades, something like this: Freud Tools - Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine

Get them from Amazon: Amazon.com: Freud LU79R010 Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Saw Blade 10 inch x 80t Hi-ATB 5/8 inch arbor Perma-Shield Coated: Home Improvement

I have to admit though, Freud are my favourite

Hey there Dengue,

Hows your mitre cutting sled going. I initially made one for my triton workcentre sawbench, but it was never a success.

Paul

Hi Paul, I finished the mitre cutting sled day before yesterday, but changed it today using a better blade and adding a hold down, so need to do some tests tomorrow on just how accurate it is. Will post some pics.

Finished the mitre key jig today, that works well.

Was a big weekend with all the NRL finals matches, and the NQ Cowboys getting robbed by the refs for the 2nd year running. Can you imagine 6 officials ( 2 on the field, 2 on the touch line, and two in the video box) not being able to count to 6 properly, and awarding a try on the 7th tackle when under the Rules of the Game, the team in possession on the 6th tackle must hand the ball over to the other side? GRRRRR !!!!

Hi Dengue, I was actually at the Cowboys Leagues Club in Townsville last year. Had a couple of nights in Townsville on the way back from Cairns. Took our car up on the Sunlander Train, 11 nights in Cairns then drove all the way home. Top trip also.

Hi Paul, I made a mitre key slot jig based on the one by Doug Stowe in his book "Basic Box Making ", but I made it the exact fit between the two mitre slots on the table saw ( 250mm distance), and had two runners instead of his one runner - I thought it might be a bit more stable. The problem is the maximum height of the box that I can do is about 150mm - that is the maximum distance between the blade and one of the slots. If I were to cut into the runner like DS did, then it could extend forever

The step that I forgot to photograph is where I ran the glued corner of the 250mm wide boards through the sawtable with the blade at 45 degrees. Allows the glued boards to sit on a flat base on the tablesaw, in the final position. It is then only a matter of screwing the runners to the sides.

I notice that it is virtually the same design as yours that you use on a router table. I am lucky enough to have an old Triton 9 1/4" sawblade with a triple chip grind that leaves a nice square cut in the key slot. The kerf is only 2.8mm, compared to the normal 3.2mm.

PS. Townsville is not a bad place to live, but it is getting too hot in the shed right now, sweating all over the work pieces, cast iron tables etc, and having my glasses lens covered with pools of sweat, and it is only mid September. Best months are April /May. You would have been made aware of the tryanny of distance - we are 1600km north of Brisbane, and all our woodworking gear has to be sent through the post or courier - there are no shops up here to cater for the woodworker

Only just saw your thread, I had the same problem so I found a company that sharpened blades and got them to reshape an old blade, they did it so that all teeth were flat topped and took the kerf down to 2.8mm, this allowed me to make up my own keys from five layers of veneer (total 3.mm) using odd layers allows me to alternate the colours and makes for some very nice contrasts.

Andy