Thread: My first box

Originally Posted by Luckyb

Thanks everyone for the kind comments. Talking about hinges, where can I purchase reasonably priced hardware? I don't seem to be able to find something between "cheap & nasty" and "OH MY GOD".
At this stage I do like the siderail type hinge as they seem relatively easy to install. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Brian

It would be interesting to tally up the combined hours we must all spend trying to find reasonable quality hinges at a fair price.
I've used SmartHinges which are great but ridiculously priced, and I've used the brass-plated $3 jobs a lot of the usuals sell, but the one supply of what I considered a well made, solid brass strap hinge for a very fair price of $20 ran out and might not be able to get any more - McJings. They are currently waiting on a replacement that may or may not be workable that is supposedly stiff enough to hold the lid in any position instead of having a stop - will hold judgement on them until I try some (and they have a round knuckle!!!).
In the meantime I had to finish a couple of boxes for our club so I grabbed some of McJings 41x44mm quadrant hinges to get the job done - brass plated alloy of some sort - difficult to fit but I came up with a jig that worked really well and they look pretty good considering the price - just hope they are strong enough to make the distance.
I have nearly 2 boxes full of non-stopped, solid brass 25mm butt hinges if you're interested - was thinking of melting them down for a paperweight as they are useless in their current form - none of the holes/dimensions are consistent so you have to mark/cut each one separately and keep them in order - no fun at all. Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes by adding that they are 'Tradco' brand.
So the search continues . . . shouldn't be this difficult should it!?!?!??!

Originally Posted by Treecycle

I think it best to show it here for all to see and learn from.

Yep, show it here....................


You'll need a piece of plywood, MDF or similar, 18mm thick, about 125mm to 150mm wide and about 100mm longer than the width of your box. I find it best to have an even whole number length for the jig because the next step is to mark the exact centre of the jig along its length and square the line down the edge. Mark the exact centre along the width of your box and mark where you'd like the hinges. Do this on the back of your box rather than the back lip. Place the jig on the box, aligning the centre of the box with the centre of the jig (and the edge of the jig with the back of the box). Transfer the hinge placements to the edge and top of the jig. I like my hinges half ball, so I measure the hinge leaf from the centre of the hinge pin to the the front edge of the hinge leaf (or set a marking gauge to that distance rather than use a rule). Transfer that measurement to the top face of the jig above where you marked the hinge placements.

If you have one, install a ripping blade with square tipped teeth into your table saw. Raise the saw blade so the top of the tooth just kisses the line you marked on the top of the jig to show how much of the hinge leaf you want let into the back (and lid) of your box. Are you still with me? Good. Set your mitre gauge 90 degrees to the saw blade and the saw blade to 90 degrees to the table top (this is how the saw is used most of the time). Align the saw blade on the waste side of one of the lines you marked to determine the placement of the hinge. Set your stop block (or flip stop) against the supported edge of the jig. Make the cut. Rotate the jig and make a second cut to mirror the first on the same edge of the jig. These saw kerfs are equidistant from the centre. of the jig. Offer the hinge to the jig and with a knife or sharp pencil score the exact width of the hinge onto the face of the jig. (When you do this you'll have the saw kerf underneath the hinge leaf.) Set the stop block to make a saw cut on the waste side of the line marked to show the width of the hinge. Make that cut and rotate the jig to make a mirrored cut on the opposite side of the jig. Remove the wood between the saw kerfs from both sides of the jig. You should have something that looks like this:

Jigs.jpg

I've added a lip to the rear jig to help register it against the back of the box. And I've used the opposite side of the rear jig for another set-up.

To use the jig align the centre of the jig with the centre of the box, and the edge of the jig with the back of the box and clamp it in position . It really helps if the clamps don't get in the way of the router base when you cut the two mortises. I find clamping the box and jig to the bench with a couple of holdfasts works well.

Jig on Box.jpeg

I use Amana bit 47224-S from Tools Today in the US. Because the bit is only 1/4" diameter the bearing they've used is not a robust "ball bearing" but a metal collar. Keep the bit clean and lubricated for longer hobbyist use. (I'm happy to use Aussie bits that do the same but haven't found any.)

Amana Bit 47224-S .png Bit in Router.jpg

Set the router's depth of cut such that the bearing runs on the jig and the cutting edge protrudes beyond the jig equal to the thickness of the hinge leaf.


Thickness of Hinge Leaf.jpeg

Run the router in the jig to remove all the wood from the box back to yield a mortise the same size as your hinge leaf and same depth as the thickness of your hinge leaf.

Router on Jig.jpeg

(Of course, in the photo above the holdfast would get in the way of the router base. If this was an actual box the holdfast would be on the opposite side of the jig so the clamp didn't get in the way of the router base.)

To cut identical mortises in the lid that will mirror those in the body of the box clamp the jig to the box lid, aligning the centre of the jig with the centre of the the box lid . Square off the rounded corners in the mortises and fit the hinges. With a bit of practise the box and lid will align perfectly.

Hope this helps. Of course, there are plenty of downsides with this jig. A new jig is needed for different hinges and different box sides. I find it pretty handy, however, especially if making similar sized boxes all with the same hinges.

Excellent tutorial Homesy - thanks.

Thanks homes,
Great description. I also noted that Amana are the only ones that have a small diameter pattern bit so I’ll chase up one of those and give your jig idea a go.
Thanks again,

Brian

Originally Posted by TTIT

It would be interesting to tally up the combined hours we must all spend trying to find reasonable quality hinges at a fair price.
I've used SmartHinges which are great but ridiculously priced, and I've used the brass-plated $3 jobs a lot of the usuals sell, but the one supply of what I considered a well made, solid brass strap hinge for a very fair price of $20 ran out and might not be able to get any more - McJings. They are currently waiting on a replacement that may or may not be workable that is supposedly stiff enough to hold the lid in any position instead of having a stop - will hold judgement on them until I try some (and they have a round knuckle!!!).
In the meantime I had to finish a couple of boxes for our club so I grabbed some of McJings 41x44mm quadrant hinges to get the job done - brass plated alloy of some sort - difficult to fit but I came up with a jig that worked really well and they look pretty good considering the price - just hope they are strong enough to make the distance.
I have nearly 2 boxes full of non-stopped, solid brass 25mm butt hinges if you're interested - was thinking of melting them down for a paperweight as they are useless in their current form - none of the holes/dimensions are consistent so you have to mark/cut each one separately and keep them in order - no fun at all. Hope I'm not stepping on anyone's toes by adding that they are 'Tradco' brand.
So the search continues . . . shouldn't be this difficult should it!?!?!??!

Thanks TTIT,
I’d certainly appreciate a few pair of those hinges. I reckon if I learn to do it the hard way, when I get the good stuff, it will be a cinch. Of course I’m happy to cover postage, just let me know the cost but how do I get my address to you?

Brian

Originally Posted by TTIT

I have nearly 2 boxes full of non-stopped, solid brass 25mm butt hinges if you're interested - was thinking of melting them down for a paperweight as they are useless in their current form - none of the holes/dimensions are consistent so you have to mark/cut each one separately and keep them in order - no fun at all.

I'd be feeding them through the table saw past a negative rake aluminium blade to make at least the length and width of the leaves identical.

Originally Posted by TTIT

I have nearly 2 boxes full of non-stopped, solid brass 25mm butt hinges if you're interested - was thinking of melting them down for a paperweight as they are useless in their current form - none of the holes/dimensions are consistent so you have to mark/cut each one separately and keep them in order - no fun at all.

You're not alone. I have some of those at the back of a drawer - unlikely to see the light of day.