Thread: First Box

Good first go Woodbe!

Did you hand cut the finger joints or use a (tailed, i.e. electric) router?

Have you tried using a scraper for finishing the timber?

Congratulations, I can tell you it looks much better than my first box constructed around 40 years ago. (however my box is still in use filled with around 7 planes)

Hi.

Thanks. Handcut with Japanese pullsaw and the little red device you can see in the top left of the last photo- AngleMag.

A.B. I have added apostrophe's around 'machine precise', I see how that could be taken both ways..

Have to admit to being completely ignorant as to where scrapers fit into the finishing picture. Would they be a replacement or companion to sandpaper? My soft office hands are smarting from all the sanding...

woodbe.

A cabinet scraper can achieve a better finish than abrasive paper; it's only after some finish (e.g. shellac) has been applied that I would then use up to 2500 wet & dry (although 1200 is good enough for most things).

I'd suggest using a scraper holder (like the one here) if you want to avoid burns to the fingers

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

I'd suggest using a scraper holder (like the one here) if you want to avoid burns to the fingers

Hmm. No link or picture...

So, the scraper is used to prepare the timber for sealing, then sandpaper is used after that?

Sounds good to me I imagine that a scraper would not be as good as 80 grit sandpaper to bring the surfaces to the same basic level?

woodbe.

Wow woodbe, I think it looks great. Oil the wood and put some wax on then the gaps will disappear and the joints will look perfect. Is that Tas Myrtle?

Good work mate.

Yes, Tassie Myrtle. Had the choice of Blackwood or Myrtle.

Pic of the side attached. The Halogen light gives everything facing it a yellow cast, the bench is actually oiled redgum, but the side of the box is picking up daylight coming in the door, so it's colour is more true to life...

Thanks for the comments and the suggestions for finishing. Be nice if the joints all looked good, it's hard getting them even this close!

woodbe.

Nice, especially for a first go.
I would look at using a scraper on difficult grain, but for a small box (I am assuming it is a small box) with reasonable grain, I would glue (spray contact glue) full sheets of abrasive paper on a flat bit of ply or mdf and rub the box on that. Only move the box with the grain, you can apply even pressure, and there is no tendancy to round off corners. I notice there are still spots that are rough (pins in the joint that are short?), I would stick to courser grades until they are all level, then go finer.
Excellent work, you are one up on me, with handsawn joints (I use a Gifkins jig).
I have been practicing my hand dovetailing though.
Good luck with the rest of the box - expect more pics...

Chris

Thanks Banksiaman,

Well, what size is a small box? This one is approximately 23cm x 9cm x15cm

I was afraid that someone would notice it needed more sanding The tip for glueing sheets to a flat surface sounds good, I'll try that.

Yes, some of the pins were short. I didn't make them slightly longer than the depth of the wood, which I now realise is the way to go...

The course I'm doing is mostly handtool based. We've had a quick look at the router, tablesaw and planer etc, but the bulk of the work is being taught with a ruler, square, marking guage, handsaw and chisels. I've heard of a Gifkins Jig, but never seen one. Probably just as well for my handtool skills

woodbe.

Originally Posted by woodbe

Hmm. No link or picture...

So, the scraper is used to prepare the timber for sealing, then sandpaper is used after that?

Sounds good to me I imagine that a scraper would not be as good as 80 grit sandpaper to bring the surfaces to the same basic level?

woodbe.

Sorry Woodbe,

Here's a link to a scraper holder. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...2669&cat=1,310

Do a search on the use of scrapers on this forum - you may be surprised

Great beginning on the box making segmentof your life. It is a segment as once you start, you will not rest till you have perfected another and another, and another..... My only real concern is that you have hard fastened the top to the end pieces and crossed the grain (not a problem as I would have done the same, with such a design) make sure you equally finish both the inside and out so to reduce any movement within the wood. Smaller pieces don't create big movements but it only takes a small amount to create a crack.

Some Flock or line the insides, which doesn't truly seal the surface and so they often swell or shrink creating a problem. Just make sure you apply equal amounts of finish inside & out. then flock or line or leave exposed to you desire.

Again, you are going nicely and I'm sure you will be pleased with the results, but be prepared for a sickness to come over you and you develop a desire to box everything. You will see small pieces of wood and in your mind a box design develops, you can't sleep at night for thinking of how your next box will go......

Great start! I too am concerned with the way the top and bottom is attached. Was there any discussion in your class about timber movement and the splitting that can result? If there wasn't, it would be good to raise this with your instructor. It's one of the major challenges in joinery. Any good book on box making, or a book like Taunton's Illustrated Guide to Joinery by Garry Rogowski discusses this.

Hi.

Yes, the subject was discussed. Because of the limited class time and the number of topics to cover only a very simple box was possible. As it is, I have spent a lot more time on it at home than at the course. Those that did the most basic mitre box just about finished the structure in a single lesson, (which was the plan) but some rebels chose more complicated joints

The basis of the course is really about becoming familiar with handtools and the basic joints involved in woodwork.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback, I'll have a look for the Taunton books.

woodbe.