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Thread: My latest Box Creation(s)
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27th June 2019, 05:51 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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My latest Box Creation(s)
Hi all, I've been working on these two boxes for a few weeks now, they proved to be a real challenge. I change the design a few times I reckon, even cut the rear dovetails on the side pieces 3 separate times making the box somewhat smaller in width than I started with.
The lid insert is all solid timber. It's 7mm thick, I wanted it about 2 to 2.5mm below the lid frame which is 12mm, same as the sides of the box. The timber in the main part of the box is all Satin Wood, used quite a bit of it to be honest for the two boxes. The inlay strips are the same timber as the perimeter of the lid insert to keep it all nice and matching. Some time ago I made a jig where I can rip a square piece of timber into two triangular half pieces. And when you put the two pieces on top of each other they are 6mm wide. Hence then you can decide on what width you want your borders to be, 2mm, 3mm, whatever to give you an overall width of the inlay strip, say 10mm or 12mm etc.. These ones are half an inch, nice and wide as the box itself is rather large at 300mm x 215mm x 100mm.
The tray being rather large also, I made thumb grips on the top of the front of each side of the tray. That was my wife's suggestion, just lift and slide it out.
Paul
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27th June 2019 05:51 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th June 2019, 06:00 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
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The boxes are lovely Paul, I can see a lot of energy went into putting all those pieces together.
Can you share some details on the jig you use to make the inlay banding.
Chee5
Jacques
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27th June 2019, 06:58 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Jaques, I knew you would ask me that question.,..!. So I found my original thread on here when I made this jig early last year. There is quite a bit of reading in the thread and some good thoughts. Read through it and you will find how I made this jig. A bit of mathematical work went into it. I think I quoted 10.25mm in there somewhere, I think it might be closer to 10.5mm, but as long as the fit through my jig is tight but slides through. I don't think there is any danger in it, as long as you use long timber strips. Push it through to start with, with a chunky push stick, then when it is nearly through, pull it out from the other end, nice and steady.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f11/slicing-triangular-45-degree-strips-table-219245/2?highlight=inlay
Paul
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27th June 2019, 07:07 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Paul. I will take my time to work through it [emoji16]
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27th June 2019, 10:33 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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Hey Jacques, I was just looking back through my old thread on that jig I made. I think back then I pushed the jig through the sawblade. The other day when I was making these this time, I clamped the jig to the fence and pushed the timber through the jig. Not really sure if there is/was much difference in the end result.
Paul
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28th June 2019, 10:54 AM #6
They look magnificent Paul. I have so far to go to even get somewhere near that design.
Dallas
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28th June 2019, 11:06 AM #7
Superb!! I particularly like the design of the lid.
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28th June 2019, 11:30 AM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Just had a thorough read through your inlay jig thread Paul. Thumps up, I'm so stealing that "block" idea
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28th June 2019, 03:14 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for your comments everyone. And good luck Jacques making my "block"
Paul
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11th July 2019, 10:39 AM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Paul,
This one slipped under my radar so I’m a bit late to the party!
Lovely boxes as always. The lid design is a bit reminiscent of art deco and the subtle choice of colours works very well in my view.
A few questions
Is the lid pivoting on metal pins or dowel or is this a more complex Rob Cosman-type wooden hinge?
If pivoting on pins, were the pins inserted before the side banding was glued on so the banding covered the ends?
Does the central panel float? If not, how does it accommodate expansion with changes in humidity? Or is humidity relatively stable up in Coffs?
And lastly, what finish did you use?
Whoever gets these boxes will be very happy, Paul.
Regards,
Brian
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11th July 2019, 06:46 PM #11GOLD MEMBER
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Hey there Brian, Thanks for your kind comments. To try and answer your questions, here goes.
The lid is pivoting on a brass tubing with a brass rod inside it. This became a huge dilemna and a pain. I purchased some 1/4inch brass tubing with "allegedly" a 1/8th I/D and also some 1/8th inch brass rod. Turns out the I/D was more than 1/8th and hence it was "sloppy". I tried a dummy run/joint on this and wasnt really convinced either way whether this would be a problem when finished,........................but it was. I wasnt happy with the sloppy pivoting. I had everything glued up of course and then couldnt get the tube/rod out, naturally. So I had to drill in from the outside and remove it all. (I couldn't remove the tube inside the actual lid as I had glued that in, but I could remove the end pieces quite easy). At that stage I then went to the next size up brass rod which was 5/32 and bought some of that. I had to redrill/rebore my tube to make a 5/32 I/D inside it. As you can imagine this procedure was not easy. Then that left a mess on the outside of the box, naturally. I did the drilling as neatly as possible, and had already decided to make up some of that inlay to cover it all. Hence the inlay then happened and using the same timbers as the lid insert. To be honest it turned out better than it would have initially. It now pivots very snug and smooth.
The floating panel lid insert. When I first bought my Gifkin dovetail jig I also bought a DVD (from Col) that Roger had made on the making of his "Special Jewellery Box" I pretty much follow his procedure where he cuts/routers a groove in the frame of the timber about 1mm deeper than the insert will be. Roger then only puts a bit of glue on the centre of the end pieces of the frame into the groove. I put a dab of glue into the centre of the end pieces and sometimes a little dab in the length pieces in the centre, perhaps I shouldn't, it just anchors it well, and haven't had any problems yet. Of course you glue the main joints in the frame.
The finish I used on these boxes, I bought from UBeaut Finishes, I used the White Shellac and then the EEE Shiny. The finish is very nice and smooth and rather glossy, but I am still undecided as to whether I prefer the finish I have been using for some years now, which is my home made Danish Oil and wax.
Paul
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11th July 2019, 07:59 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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Thanks for the comprehensive reply, Paul.
I haven’t made many pivot top boxes but I use the brass rod and tube that I buy from a local Hobby Shop - Metro Hobbies in Box Hill, Vic. These fit together well - no slop at all. I’ve been thinking about making the holes in the outside edges ‘blind’, i.e. entry from the inside only then using a small spring much like a ballpoint pen spring inside the tube in the lid to push home the rod into the side wall. I’m always interested in how other have done it. Inlay banding can be a godsend, can’t it?
Thanks for clarifying the panel construction - I couldn’t quite work it out from the pics.
Ah, white shellac. I’m a fan of (hard) shellac although it takes more effort than some finishes. Sometime I’m going to have a crack at spraying the shellac just to see how it goes.
Thanks again, Paul.
Regards,
Brian
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11th July 2019, 09:13 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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Hey there Brian,
A spring inside the tube component, then to push the rod across into the wall compartment, which would hold a short version of the tube. Very very interesting, I shall have to toss this thought around in my old brain.
Paul
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11th July 2019, 10:46 PM #14
Beautiful boxes Paul,
Love the design of the top .
Cheers Matt
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