Thread: Box making instructions for a newbie?

With dovetailed corners, you can't cut the slot the full length of the boards (disassembled) otherwise the slot will show on the corner joints.

Wouldn't be too hard to set up stops on your router table to end the slots ~5mm from the ends though. I agree that their method seems a bit weird - never heard of it being down that way before !

I too am curious as to the best way to split a box - router table, or table saw? I've always done it on the saw - cut each side not quite through (leave maybe 1mm of material, and tape across the cut for support), then when all sides are complete cut through the remaining thin section with a jap saw. A quick tidy up with the block plane....easy

Yes you could do the panel grooves individually but you will need to set up accurate start and end stops. You don't want to see the panel groove from the outside of the box do you. I reckon the method described in the instructions is less stressfull. You could square the corners of the groove with an appropriate sized chisel if you wish to avoid rounding the panel corners.

Cheers

Wow - almost simultaneous responses...SNAP!

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

I've always done it on the saw - cut each side not quite through (leave maybe 1mm of material, and tape across the cut for support), then when all sides are complete cut through the remaining thin section with a jap saw. A quick tidy up with the block plane....easy

I agree, that's the way I always do it and it works a treat.

Thanks guys.

I see the problem now.

As for cutting the box in two, I don't have a table saw and don't trust my bandsaw to cut straight.

There are 3mm thick spiral bits made for the router so that might be the go, or would a 3.2mm slot cutter do a cleaner job do you think?

Hmm...good question.

If you used a 3mm spiral bit I would suggest doing it in several shallow cuts, i.e. maybe 3mm at a time. Go right round all the faces, wind the bit up some more, and so on. Trying to do it in one cut with a 3mm cutter would put quite a load on the bit and probably break it.

No such problem with the slot cutter. Might not make quite such a clean job (more breakout), but you could do it in one cut with no risk of breaking the bit. Also more stable, as the box would be resting on its base on the router table, rather than on its side.

Yes.

And 3 passes with a spiral bit would multiply the chances of movement producing a sloppy cut.

Slot cutter tear-out would be on the inside where the lining would cover it - oh, no it won't. Runs the other way doesn't it.

Would a zero clearance fence reduce the tear-out?

Originally Posted by rsser

As for cutting the box in two, I don't have a table saw and don't trust my bandsaw to cut straight.

You're welcome to come over and cut it on my TS or there maybe someone closer to you that can help.


Peter.

Definitely easier on a TS with zero clearance insert...........but if you do it on a router table the slot cutter is the lesser of two evils !

A strip of MDF as a supplementary fence should help with the tearout - clamp it on, then move the fence so that the cutter comes through the MDF and protrudes to the required depth.

Good idea Mr Brush.

Peter, thanks, I may take you up on that. It'll be a few weeks before the dovetail jig arrives and I get the practice to use it on the box timber.

Originally Posted by rsser

Peter, thanks, I may take you up on that.

No problem, just let me know when you're ready.


Peter.

I am a raw beginner at making boxes as well but here is my first time experience, for what it is worth.


I bought a Gifkins dovetail jig and have watched Roger Gifkins demos at the woodworkers shows and have seen him cut his boxes with a thin router bit on a table mounted router.

I am not sure whether the router bit was special in any way but I have just made my first box which I am currently slapping some Estapol on. ("Slapping" being the most apt description )

This is not, by any means, a great job compared with the outputs of the Roger Gifkins' of this world but I am happy enough with it as a first attempt. It is a first aid cabinet that will sit on my garage wall and is just made of 13 mm thick "Tassie Oak" from Bunnings, el cheapo plywood top and bottom, lined with 8 mm thick pine and a first aid cross fashioned from scrap pine for the front. Like I said, nothing special for this first box attempt before I start hacking into the pieces of Huon pine and other nice timbers that I bought at a woodworking show for my more serious attempts.


Anyway, I split the box using a 4 mm straight router bit on the router table. This thin router bit is a bit shorter than the 13 mm thickness of the Tassie Oak so after making successively deeper cuts around the box with the router until it had gone down to its full depth leaving a couple of mm or so still intact, I taped up the box with duct tape like Roger does and then I cut through the remaining wood with a small cheap dovetail saw. As the router cut was 4 mm wide, I was able to take care to avoid damaging the faces of the newly cut surfaces.

I then cleaned up the cut by paring the rough saw cut with a sharp hand held chisel.

The end result is pretty damn good, in my view. By making the dovetail at the point of the cut wider by the thickness of the router bit, viz 4 mm, the end result is that the box just looks like it has been sliced open with a thin blade.

Anyway, my first experience at doing it this way has been good so that is what I shall do again, next time.


Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch


Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

Thanks for the run-down Charleville.

It's come up well.

Originally Posted by rsser

Good idea Mr Brush.

Peter, thanks, I may take you up on that. It'll be a few weeks before the dovetail jig arrives and I get the practice to use it on the box timber.

Hi Ern,

I have a 3.2mm or 1/8" straight CMT router bit which you are welcome to borrow if it suits your purposes. Not using at the moment, so I can post it to you and you can send it back when done. Cheaper than $35 for a new one!

Cheers,
Dave