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  1. #16
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    Thank you for the info Fumbler.
    I would be interested in seeing their workshop, I will let you know in the next few weeks. A Wednesday would be the most convenient for me.

    Happy woodworking,

    Alan...

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  3. #17
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    Apr 2013
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    PS. I also leave the tape on whilst I cut the splines off. I first score them with a Stanley blade to help reduce tear out when cutting across the grain. As the grain runs across the join, you are cutting diagonally across and if you don’t score or cut correctly there is small chance the very outside could tear out. So the tape also helps by leaving a little bit of meat on the spline, also preventing tear out. I then plane/ sand it to flush.

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Al View Post
    Thank you for the info Fumbler.
    I would be interested in seeing their workshop, I will let you know in the next few weeks. A Wednesday would be the most convenient for me.

    Happy woodworking,

    Alan...
    Alan, just let me know. Look forward to meeting other forumites.

  5. #19
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    I thought I’d better post the latest, an hour here an hour there I’m getting through them.

    NSO now separated, and with lid locator band in.

    F19196B4-8B82-4F0E-BCCC-CC665E4B65D7.jpg 66AA6151-301B-4317-968A-6E770D58EC2D.jpg 0BD14C80-497C-4613-8539-893B54FAA09A.jpg 573F8AEA-2CFB-44B0-BC10-1F31E00BE8C7.jpg

    The jewellery box now has the Wenge banding in and glued together. I did have an early morning stuff up, cutting the wrong side so now it’s 2mm short than I wanted it, we can fix.

    C28A6B80-079F-4BB3-935E-465EDFA53548.jpg F82FE8B8-D0FD-4079-8824-8A3541243172.jpg ADBC4A15-4124-495C-9CB4-DD48122318D4.jpg
    And getting a bit further along with the medal box also, see below. Which I will seperate today, or atleast run through the table saw leaving 1mm of meat to finish off with the flush saw. The tray is glued and needing splines. Just not sure of the joint integrity so may use Japanese tapered dowels as a feature so can use the saw line as a reference point to get them accurately in place. (Homey, you may be able to guide me as to how strong this type of joint is without splines, and would I need the dowels?) I was going to do 3 each end back and front.
    C5A43D34-B072-4BFE-883F-C5FB4A5DBB9A.jpg
    Inbetween all this I have managed to punch out a few pens and pen blanks ready for completion. See the pen turning forum.

  6. #20
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    Sorry posted twice

  7. #21
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    Mar 2008
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    Hobart, Tas
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    Fumbler, what do you mean by a flush saw? I had always separated by cutting all the way through, except with the last two, where I left about 0.25 mm which I then split with a Stanley knife and planed flush. While it was an improvement, the Tasmanian Blackwood I was using was very splintery, and the knife split tore out in spots, so am keen to find an alternative method.

    Perhaps you could take a series of photos of the process on your next one. That would be appreciated.

    Kind regards,
    Lance

  8. #22
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    Apr 2013
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    Lance, it just so happens that I sliced up a box today, not all the way. I too had the same problem when I did a Blackwood box, it’s so prone to tearout. I will cut through this later and add a photo for you.

    0123F295-F04E-49AC-A10C-FAFB03EC39F4.jpg
    The wall thickness on this box is 11.75, I cut through on the table saw about 10.5mm leaving 1.25mm as I had planned on pegging but decided against it.

    next I will mask up to protect the edge as I cut through with a Japanese flush saw like below.

    4D9B5B24-4954-4527-84AF-437F4A92FCF0.jpeg
    There are cheaper options, like the Irwin dovetail saw for about $21 from Bunnys.

    then I scrape, sand and make flush.

  9. #23
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    Mar 2008
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    Thanks Fumbler, I look forward to the photo(s).

    And the flush cut saw, are those the ones with teeth set on one side only?

    Kind regards,
    Lance

  10. #24
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    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    Hi Richard,

    Which joints are you concerned about, the ones on the box or the ones on the tray? If it’s the tray then my approaches are usually:

    If using mitred joints on the tray I do reinforce with splines which I make up from layers of different coloured dyed veneer such as black, white, white, black.

    If using rebate joints I put at least on brass pin in each corner using epoxy, then snip the head off and level to the side of the tray with a small file.

    The bottoms of my trays are invariably made of 1.5mm ply veneered both sides, bringing the thickness to something just shy of 3mm. Since the ply is dimensionally stable I put a couple of dabs of glue in the bottom rebate of all four sides.

    I should add that I use 4mm timber for my trays, although I will be testing some 5 or 5.5mm ones soon.

    Your boxes looking great as always!

    Brian

  11. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    Hi Richard,

    Which joints are you concerned about, the ones on the box or the ones on the tray? If it’s the tray then my approaches are usually:

    If using mitred joints on the tray I do reinforce with splines which I make up from layers of different coloured dyed veneer such as black, white, white, black.

    If using rebate joints I put at least on brass pin in each corner using epoxy, then snip the head off and level to the side of the tray with a small file.

    The bottoms of my trays are invariably made of 1.5mm ply veneered both sides, bringing the thickness to something just shy of 3mm. Since the ply is dimensionally stable I put a couple of dabs of glue in the bottom rebate of all four sides.

    I should add that I use 4mm timber for my trays, although I will be testing some 5 or 5.5mm ones soon.

    Your boxes looking great as always!

    Brian
    The Medal box, which has rebate joins. The trays I’m not concerned with as mitred and will use splines. I was wondering about the structural integrity of the rebate join in the box itself. I was going to use Japanese tapered plugs to strengthen and Will add a feature.

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LanceC View Post
    Thanks Fumbler, I look forward to the photo(s).

    And the flush cut saw, are those the ones with teeth set on one side only?

    Kind regards,
    Lance
    Yes, and a very small kerf.

  13. #27
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    Apr 2014
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    Kew, Vic
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    Hi Richard,

    OK - now I understand. For a medal box or jewellery box these joints would be strong enough on their own. If it is to be used to contain something heavy or if it will get rough handling I’d use a more mechanical joint such as dovetails, lock mitres or a splined mitre. The Japanese tapered dowels sound interesting and I’d love to see the result if you go down that path.

    Brian

  14. #28
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    This is the third time I have written this as my phone was playing up. Anyway the NGR glues joint box now has a lid and will become my personal money box, unless another idea pops up. Now what are the chances that a piece of wood kicking around the association workshop would match? Tell me if u think it doesn’t......

    69392F02-C9BC-4DEA-A53A-4ACFA3AA9785.jpg

    Lance, here are the pics of seperation, note the 1/4” brass angle iron I use to stop the saw from wandering and ruining the edge.

    7B087E97-6195-4E7A-B6B6-D0E01FB1DC7F.jpg 455189D1-9E2B-4CDC-8D00-AB37433C3D59.jpg A0A770EF-1CB0-4E66-AADA-326E3265F356.jpg A4E4B439-B65F-4BA3-A471-558DCBA8AD3D.jpg
    Now don’t laugh at the $6.98 Super Cheap Autos block plane, as the shoes don’t maketh the man. The blade is scary sharp and it does a great job. However, when I got close to removing the lip, I should’ve swapped out to something longer ie. no.4 to prevent roll over at the corners.

    74EB6D8C-642A-4322-AE8B-063FFAAD55A6.jpg 983BDA2F-6608-4EFE-BC79-23DF91B7414B.jpg

    See gaps at the ends, so now I have to take some meat out of the middle for it to seat right.

    16AF952E-EC1B-42D1-8CB2-36294AFEF354.jpg 05CD7902-8022-4D0E-A90C-2C494C6AD73D.jpg
    Heres the tray with splines done
    B0E199DB-458D-40CB-86C4-ED7ED0674672.jpg

    Wednesday i I got a lot done, I cut the J/box top, base, splines.

    295428C9-DC8A-4AEA-AB89-47A467E7D0E6.jpg 7D09D410-D06D-4FD5-8FF7-81B04EDC4E60.jpg 3730F216-BFDE-4D30-9B9C-E2A345E9A6FB.jpg
    I was just about to rebate the underneath side of the lid when someone suggested I leave proud and put a 45degree chamfer around the top as an added feature, so due to the angle at which I had cut the lid and being Huon pine, it would’ve torn out like no bodies business so out with the 45degree shooting board.

    BA894218-93AA-4633-9FD3-FA42C21A24A8.jpg
    I now have to make a 45degree sanding board to finish off the ends neatly.

    stay tuned.

  15. #29
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    After separating the lid, I pare off the excess using a chisel, rather than plane it. You just need to be careful to pare in the right direction. Then I flatten the lid & base by sanding the cut surfaces on 240 grit stuck to a laminate board using spray-on adhesive.
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  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    After separating the lid, I pare off the excess using a chisel, rather than plane it. You just need to be careful to pare in the right direction. Then I flatten the lid & base by sanding the cut surfaces on 240 grit stuck to a laminate board using spray-on adhesive.
    Thanks Alex, I’ll try that next time, as I now have my chisels sharpened properly. Sharpened by Peter Dunn at the woodshow as part of his Demo.

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