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  1. #31
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    Mar 2008
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    Hobart, Tas
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    Thanks a lot for posting the photos Fumbler. That's a great idea with using the brass angle. And no judgement from me on your block plane. My only block plane is a cheep $20 stanley job I was given.

    Once seperated I now plane with a No 4 (or 5 with a larger box), and find that if I go around and around the lid and base untill I have an unbroken shaving, they mate up perfecly (with everything but the blackwood, which I found realy obstinate to work with).

    Kind regards,
    Lance

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  3. #32
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    [QUOTE=LanceC;2151855] they mate up perfecly (with everything but the blackwood, which I found realy obstinate to work with)[/QUOTE

    Its a beautiful timber, but i have to agree its a bugger to work with sometimes.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    The jewellery box splines are in

    5D3C708E-7604-4551-BD6E-D6A609C7ED06.jpg 46620EAC-8C3C-43EA-9E61-AA9DBDB644B3.jpg
    And trimmed, now with lid sitting in, not glued. Which is where I am at - Stuck at a crossroads. The Huon Pine lid moves faster than my grandma. I didn’t realise that when I was trimming it up to fit, it must have been cold and damp from my garage because it was snug, I then went onto something else, cane back to it and it was now loose and too much play for my liking, so I am hesitant about continuing with it and using epoxy to take up the slack or cutting a new piece. Which I will do when the temp picks up at lunch time not early in the morning.

    1535218E-6B53-4694-BF2E-BBB72CF7A150.jpg
    Now to make a double booboo, the medal box became flush through sanding
    1BD3699F-7E8C-48CC-B719-3BAF1520E116.jpg
    But, here’s the kicker...... there were sanding marks on the rims so I used finer grit to remove, which then delevelled the edges. So out with the scraper to clean it all up and whammo, tearout on the edge (I went the wrong way, against the grain). So I now have to a chamfer around the bottom and top lip of the opening to hide/remove the tearout, unless I keep sanding another few mm to remove. Although the 45degree 1mm chamfer looks ok, I much prefer the clean lines of the box with out it. So again a day or to to ponder. No photos of this although I will post one to see what you think. Resand/plane or put the bevel.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    With lip bevel
    E1AE9B1B-D6FB-4809-BCD7-D6BDAA8052B9.jpg
    Still doesn’t look bad but prefer the flush look.

    back to the sanding board.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    534

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    Looks good to me, Richard. The little chamfer draws the eye and makes it easier for the user to know where to lift if you don’t want to interrupt the clean lines with a lid lift.

    Can’t really suggest anything useful on the Huon Pine issue. I almost always use veneer on birch ply for box tops as this doesn’t move. If I do use a solid top it is a panel that floats to allow for expansion.

    There are some good timber expansion/contraction calculators on the web.


    Brian

  7. #36
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    So, I am ready to sort the hinges out on the medal box Red Gum with Silky Oak top. And low and behold all the faffing around I did flattening the lid, then mucking it up was a waste of time, we’ll the mucking it up part. Sunday I cut and fitted (but not glued in yet) a locator flange that sits inside the lid lip so when I closes it keeps everything in line.

    today I wake up early from doing night shift 1:30pm and stroll into the shed for a look and double measure of something, if I didn’t see it I would believe it. The lid has curled up at the corners.... bugger. Sunday, dead flat, Tuesday, cupped. Now this is red gum and a softer hardwood Silky Oak, how can the Silky Oak have enough power to pull the corners of the redgum up?

    if I had enough forethought it knowledge to think that the moisture levels I could’ve kept the box clean and flush.

    i know the tree is dead and we are still working with a live specimen, but how can I prevent the curvature? Is my shed too cold, do I need heating, should I not make boxes in winter? Should I make a moisture gauge for the wall to see what the box does depending on where the needle is?

    dhould I cut/sand/ fix etc in the middle of the day? Should I set up shop in my lounge room? Nah that won’t work, I won’t be able to watch Repair shop.

    any and all advice welcome.

    will it settle down once a finish has been applied?

  8. #37
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    Apr 2014
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    Melbourne
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    Oops - didn’t mean to hit “Thanks for the pictures”!

    Richard - any chance of a couple of pics so we can see what’s happening? It sounds very peculiar.

    Couple of thoughts. Was the timber really dry when you used it or was it relatively newly cut? Second, when you originally cut and prepared the pieces did you leave them for a few days before using them? Sometimes I find resawing or planing can release stresses in the timber causing it to distort.

    I’d be surprised if the problem were temperature alone - plenty of boxmaking around the world in places with greater temperature variations than yours. Likewise humidity. My (very uninformed) guess is released stress in the timber, but I look forward to hearing more knowledgeable views from the experts here.

    Brian

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by homey View Post
    Oops - didn’t mean to hit “Thanks for the pictures”!

    Richard - any chance of a couple of pics so we can see what’s happening? It sounds very peculiar.

    Couple of thoughts. Was the timber really dry when you used it or was it relatively newly cut? Second, when you originally cut and prepared the pieces did you leave them for a few days before using them? Sometimes I find resawing or planing can release stresses in the timber causing it to distort.

    I’d be surprised if the problem were temperature alone - plenty of boxmaking around the world in places with greater temperature variations than yours. Likewise humidity. My (very uninformed) guess is released stress in the timber, but I look forward to hearing more knowledgeable views from the experts here.

    Brian
    Brian, the timber was well dry, the lid was machined and glued in Aug/Sept 2017, and been floating around my shed for a while, as i figured out what to do with it. Its also the off cut from a box lid I made back then, and the carcass was a piece of timber kicking around our workshop storage room and been there 2 years+ I'd say. It was about 15mm thick and now its a smidge under 12mm. I just thinned it down a touch through the thicknesser. looking at it now, the silky oak book match grain runs cross ways to the red gum, as opposed to when I used the bulk of the piece I ran it length ways in same grain direction, maybe that's the cause. anyway, i''l go home in the morning and see if its the moisture/cold and if still cupped. if so I will move inside and see if that makes a difference. I will snap a before and after photo.

  10. #39
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    Apr 2013
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    I finally managed to get the lid glued in on the jewellery box, and used a rather crude way of keeping in place/pressure.

    B7D5C45F-9E25-492E-9603-2257E1688137.jpg
    First was a shading board, then a European Oak 320x430 - 40mm thick end grain cutting board, then a 25mm thick Jarrah guitar blank, then the medal box, then the jig box. I used epoxy this time to take up some slack in the corners.

    29E15D29-E8C4-4DB1-A10A-0A562BA39BE6.jpg

    I now need to make a small 45degree sanding block to run around the edges to get smooth.

    the is also in so now I can seperate, sand and get to work on the trays.

  11. #40
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    Bit of shed time today, and in between cutting up a Sydney blue gum/Blackbutt charity auction chopping board, and a Union Jack end grain chopping board for Moir, I managed to seperate the lid for the jewellery box. I used the table saw to cut through the front and back and left 1mm on the sides to finish off with the flush saw. I then did as Alex suggested and used my chisels to finish off. It’s easy 1. When you know how. 2. You have scary sharp chisels. It was a breeze and just a light bit of sanding to finish off.

    518DC246-5081-4166-9D11-EAAC67B34CA7.jpg

    And a nice flush join.

    D7F88321-FB4D-4D43-8136-DFF48C823488.jpg

    Also showing the pre-drilled hinge holes, which I am so glad I did. One less chore to try and balls up.

    4F4EEE5B-A6B1-483C-8FCB-5469986316CD.jpg

    Next up, make the trays.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #41
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    So got a bit done today and over the weekend.

    tray and tray supports cut but not sanded or glued.

    2910D055-C61A-4ED9-B365-0BD86A7FB25A.jpg E1717B7A-1AE0-47AB-923E-4D0204C2DD52.jpg BBA9E554-0628-4A7F-B222-7CF170F0B896.jpg

    Now i I have been banging my head against a wall as to how to hinge the medal box, so I am going with wooden hinges, another way to tie in the Huon pine from the guy who this is going to.

    015607F1-70C4-4997-AAD5-873D6B766776.jpg ADDC6575-678D-4542-93DA-69F488A904A1.jpg
    May the moment they are just finger jointed and drilled. They are 6mm thick strips of Huon and 3mm holes. I used a bradpoint to prevent grain track. This is the 2nd pair I made as the first went s but skewed. I want the box to open past 90deg so I am going to use hinge as the stop as well. So now I need to bevel 1 side of the join, and then round over the corresponding corners to enable them to work. I will also use 3mm brass rod. At the moment they are held by 2.8mm bullet headnails. Do you think I can find a 3mm nail? Nope. They come in 2mm, 2.5mm, 2.8, and 3.15. He lives by the water so brass will be better anyway.

  13. #42
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    Mar 2018
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    I'm very interested to find out how you intend to mate the hinges and the box. Watching in anticipation (or am I just showing my naiive side ? )

  14. #43
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    Apr 2013
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    Bit further along, ie ready for final sand then finish to be applied. For the jewellery box I will use Livos oil.

    here we are, tray supports in, finger slots on box side walls, tray done, splines in. So ready to go, but think I might have a week in Fiji first.........

    91B944B5-304E-4EA9-B279-4A2F6EB1BEF5.jpg 4D2B8CE9-A0ED-4F59-9917-96171AB98B12.jpg 9EA539DC-1365-4F4C-81FA-509448E08E2D.jpg

    as for the hinges, I’ve made 3 sets and managed to keep only 2 hinges, 0.5mm off, no good, sand too much, no good. Will keep you posted, after Fiji that is!!

  15. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
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    140

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    The suspense is killing me [emoji16]


    Looking good thus far.

  16. #45
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    Apr 2013
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    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by botesmj1 View Post
    The suspense is killing me [emoji16]


    Looking good thus far.
    Thanks, so is my choice of lining colour. I have 6 to choose from and they all add something. i'll take the week off and drink I mean think about it.

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