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Thread: My Burl Box

  1. #31
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    Couldnt work out how to put all these on the same post, oh well. Second latest box, I had some Tassie Fiddleback Oak from last Tassie trip, but it was only 65mm wide. So added the Rosewood for extra height. Once again, Redgum Burl for lid insert. (love those cracks).
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  3. #32
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    Last one, (for today). I love this box. The timber comes from Solomon Islands, even Mal whom I purchased it from doesnt know the exact name of it. But it is lovely to work with, and the grain wow. I might have to get some more of this timber later on. Once again, Burl Insert is RedGum, and also the inlay running around the box is also RedGum Burl. Little divider between is Jelutong, works nice. Pivoting hinge is 6mm brass tubing glued to lid and sides, with 4.75mm brass rod pivoting inside, very snugly. Inlay running around hides any site of the hinges. Small brass spacer keeps the lid centred, but its not really needed.
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  4. #33
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    More beautiful examples, Paul.

    I love the fiddleback in some of those. I really like the burl piece as the full area of the lid too. Right up to the edges like that, nice.

    Regards Adam

  5. #34
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    More fine examples of your workmanship. You have really got those burls standing out but you will be sad when they're all gone after making the ones you have used so far look so good.
    Looks like you are making good use of that new router table.
    Dallas

  6. #35
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    Thanks Adam, Your comment about taking up the full area. My wife also commented that it wont leave a groove to have to dust,..!!!. Having said that though, I am currently making one at present, where I will use the conventional panel and frame and do all the jointing on my router table (as opposed to on my saw table like I have been). That will have a "groove" in it of course The timber I am using in this box is Hairy Oak. (except for the lid insert). And this Hairy Oak, talk about a difficult timber to work with. Sooo brittle and splintery, but I think the end result might be pretty amazing.

    Regards, Paul

  7. #36
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    Thanks Dallas, Yes, getting into these burls for sure. I think they add an extra dimension to my boxes with all the cracks and twisted grain. I had a thin piece of burl only 7mm thick, probably around 250mm x 200mm, that the bloke I buy my timber from gave me. RedGum. But it was all bent and out of shape and wonky and all over the place. So I hosed both sides of it, sandwiched it between two big hunks of flat timber, clamped it, left it sit for about 4 days. Took the clamps off this morning and it was as flat as a pancake...!!!


    Paul,....

  8. #37
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    Very nice.

  9. #38
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    As my collection of "Burl boxes" continues to grow. A couple of the above boxes have already been sold. The "Tassie Fiddleback Oak/Rosewood" box was sold last week. I previously mentioned the "Hairy Oak" box, all finished now. And yes a very difficult timber to work with (reminds me of a couple of blokes I used to work with years ago). I went for the more conventional panel frame lid on this one all done on new router table as opposed to table saw like before.

    And a few ring boxes to use up smaller pieces of the RedGum Burl.

    Paul
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  10. #39
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    Three more "burl boxes" finished. I used up some of the timber I bought at the Maleney Wood Expo earlier this year. Some Brush Box and some Myrtle. Got rid of all the Brush Box, but still have some of the Myrtle left. The burls here are Coolabah and RedGum (once again). The Coolabah comes up with a marble type finish and has hardly any cracks or holes in it. Redgum Burl is the opposite, lots of holes and cracks through it, but a lovely smooth finish when sanded.

    Paul
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  11. #40
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    Just beautiful Paul. You always vary your designs to keep it interesting.
    Dallas

  12. #41
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    Love your work, Paul.

    I’m intrigued - on that last box the inlay on the front doesn’t run around the sides at the same height. Any particular reason for that?


    Brian

  13. #42
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    Hi Brian, Thank you, and very good question, and there is a very good reason for that. You will notice the front of this box is lower than the sides. 12mm to be precise as all the timber is 12mm thick. The frame of the lid is also 12mm so it sits flush on the front of the box. I make this box up and all glued together before the lid is fitted. For the hinges I use they are a 6mm O/D tube then a 4 and something or other mm rod running through the tube. Very snug fit. To install this I drill in (with a 6mm brad bit) through the sides 6 mm down from the top and 19mm from the end of the side (I think that's right, 12 + 6 +1, late in the night here!). I drill in through the end and then about another 20mm into the lid. The lid is secured during drilling to stop it moving about. So then that leaves me with a 6mm hole in the sides of my box 3mm from the top.

    Still with me here? (the two sections of the 6mm tube are glued into the sides and lid)


    In order to hide that hole I make those inlays (from the same piece of the burl lid insert with a bit of jelutong timber on the outer edge). The inlay is 1/2 inch wide and it runs along the sides at least 3mm from the top.

    Then for the inlay at the front of the box I want it to match but not to overlap, so I drop it down just below the lines of the side inlays.

    I like the look of the exposed ends of the inlays to be visible. Plus it cant meet up with the side inlays as the front is already 12mm lower than the sides.

    Paul

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