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Thread: Cedar Blanket Box
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19th February 2018, 12:40 PM #31GOLD MEMBER
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I managed to make the cuts without disaster striking. The parallel guides were a big help and I clamped a block of wood on the underside of the guide rail each side of the box for added security.
After cutting I sanded the box with 240 grit on the ROS and applied another coat of Danish oil. I'll finish the outside of the box before separating the lid with a dozuki saw.
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21st February 2018, 01:24 PM #32GOLD MEMBER
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You had me worried there for a minute when you said you were going to remove a pin in the lid cut. But I see it was a tail that got the chop. Dont forget the dust mould, particularly with soft timber like cedar, it stops the lid racking and over exerting the hinge screws with people using it as a seat. Also puts a bit of class into the whole job. Looking good.
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21st February 2018, 03:05 PM #33GOLD MEMBER
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Lid's off.
Sorry, got my pins and tails mixed up!
Re the dust mould- should I use the same timber or something harder and/or contrasting? My plan is to make it wide enough to touch the underside of the top panel. I cut the rebate in the underside of the top panel oversize to allow for movement. Having the dust mould touch the top panel will hide the gap.
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21st February 2018, 06:00 PM #34GOLD MEMBER
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Normally, the dust mould rises only the height of its bullnosed edge above the top of the box. Any higher and it fouls the lid as it closes, because the lid is swinging through an arc. I'm not sure what you are refering to regarding the rebate in the top panel. As for timber - a contrast isn't necessary, same specie looks fine and as it is a blanket box, a durable timber is not important. No need for bulk, a piece 50 mm x 8 mm bullnosed top edge, half bullnose bottom edge, mitered in corners and glued all round.
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21st February 2018, 07:08 PM #35GOLD MEMBER
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See pic below. I had to rebate the bottom of the panel or the edge of the panel would have been too thick. It can't be thicker than the narrow part of a tail or the rebate would show through the sides of the box. I made ¼" slots in the side panels to accept the top panel.
Thanks for the response. I'll do that, but dispense with the half bullnose bottom so it covers the gap shown in the pic. How to make an 8mm bullnose though?
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24th February 2018, 05:59 PM #36GOLD MEMBER
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Dust mould fitted. Looks great and makes the lid fit nice and snug.
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25th February 2018, 11:39 AM #37GOLD MEMBER
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Ah, now I get it. You have fitted the dust mould into the lid, rather than the body of the box. Very good sir.
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25th February 2018, 04:12 PM #38GOLD MEMBER
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That's what I thought I was supposed to do. Now your suggestion to put a half bullnose on the bottom edge of the mould makes sense. By putting the mould in the lid I was able to hide the gap shown in the pic above and it also allows me to fit a box lock without having to remove a section of the mould.
I fitted the hinges today. They are French made Brionne hinges. They were expensive, but as mentioned early in this thread, there's not a lot of elegant looking iron cabinet hardware out there. I bought some Indian made iron hinges from Timbecon, but they were finished with a very back coating I didn't like and one of them was significantly smaller than the other two. There's no way they were adorning this box. The Brionne hinges required me to route a pocket for them to sit in. It was no more work than chiselling out a rebate for a butt hinge.
The plynth is next.
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25th February 2018, 05:12 PM #39GOLD MEMBER
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The only reason for fitting the mould to the body rather than the lid, is that the lid is more capable of deforming over the mould in the box, rather than the other way around. A minor detail, I'm sure you'll agree. As you are fitting a lock, your decision to use the lid is perfectly understandable. I likes dem hinges.
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4th March 2018, 02:41 PM #40GOLD MEMBER
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Sorry for this brief diversion into metalwork. I gave up trying to find nice looking iron handles that didn't have crazy postage, so I bought some cast iron bar and made my own. Two days and large pile of cast iron swarf later, here they are.
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15th March 2018, 12:23 PM #41GOLD MEMBER
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The box is finished. You'll notice it doesn't have the handles shown in the previous post. My wife said they make the box look like a coffin. What a nerve! A blanket box doesn't really need handles anyway. If my wife decides she wants handles I have a trip to London later this year, so I'll have some sent to my hotel and save the $70 postage.
I fitted Hafele lid stays. They aren't exactly traditional, but they were the only stays I could find that were well made and weren't either brass or chrome. I made the escutcheon from cast iron bar. The plynth corner protectors are 30mm angle iron. I milled off the galvanising and coloured them with gun blue. A light buff with steel wool brought the colour back a bit closer to the colour of the escutcheon. The screws are SS and were heat-blued with a MAPP torch.
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20th November 2018, 02:44 PM #42
Wondering where you ended up getting the lock from??? I need to make a small chest and can't find anything that looks at all well made on any Aussie sites
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20th November 2018, 03:52 PM #43GOLD MEMBER
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I bought the lock direct from Jacksons in Launceston. There are nicer looking and better made locks available, but I wanted an Australian made lock. And they are as cheap as chips.
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20th November 2018, 10:52 PM #44
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21st November 2018, 08:54 AM #45GOLD MEMBER
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I think they use convict labour.
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