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  1. #1
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    Default Coopered box lid question

    G'day All,
    I've been mucking about with a coopered box lid, and have a question about grain direction for the solid lid ends.
    Which way do you reckon the grain should run?
    AB or CD?
    Staves and ends will just be glued.

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  3. #2
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    I think quarter sawn. My rationale - the movement will follow the arc. If flat sawn the tendency to cup will tend to open up the joints.
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

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  4. #3
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    Hi Noel,
    Will the end be inside arc or flush to top of lid/top. I recon a veneered end in a fan shape to try and match the grain in the top would be the safest and look pretty smart.

    Cheers Mike

  5. #4
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    Thanks Pusser.

    G'day Mike.
    The end will be inside arc. And now you've given me more food for thought.

  6. #5
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    I'd lay it out so the grain runs around it like a section of hollow log
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  7. #6
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    I'd make the (lid) ends match the sides of the box.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by echnidna View Post
    I'd lay it out so the grain runs around the outside just like a section of hollow log
    Yes that is what I meant. Each stave would be quarter sawn
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

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  9. #8
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    Choices! Choices!
    So far I've got the staves quarter sawn, but my main worry is the grain direction of the ends. Each time I work out which way the wood will expand, I convince myself of a different answer.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisp View Post
    I'd make the (lid) ends match the sides of the box.
    Sorry Chrisp, didn't see you there.
    I'm leaning towards your answer as it would make the ends of the box look uniform, but do you have any other reason for that, or are you as much in the dark about coopered lids as I am??

  11. #10
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    Watson,

    I'm in the dark and guessing a bit. I figure you'll run into grain direction problems either way so you might was well make it look good! And, at least, the size of the lid will move with the size of the box.

    Chris

  12. #11
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    if its only a box under 6" wide ignore expansion as long as the timbers dry
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by watson View Post
    Choices! Choices!
    So far I've got the staves quarter sawn, but my main worry is the grain direction of the ends. Each time I work out which way the wood will expand, I convince myself of a different answer.
    The sketch shows what I think will happen in the movement stakes.

    Much of the movement will be irrelevant though a small gap could appear between the top of the lid and the end. However if the lid sits on the front face it could slide over the top it may be that there is no problem. I would avoid trapping the lid so it cannot slide forward as it expands.

    Still conjecture as I still havn't built a box.
    I never make mistakes, I thought I did once but I was mistaken

    Top 10 reasons I procrastinate
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  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pusser View Post
    The sketch shows what I think will happen in the movement stakes.


    Still conjecture as I still havn't built a box.

    chrisp,
    on second third & fourth thoughts.........I think you're right..otherwise the end of the box would look silly
    Echidna
    Bob, I was trying to work out a system for any size box..like a "pirate chest" toy box or whatever.
    Pusser,
    Thanks for your input to this and the golden proportions thread. Because of you and swift I have studied excel till I'm blue in the face. When are you going to make a box???
    Last edited by watson; 4th January 2008 at 06:52 PM. Reason: editing quote stuff

  15. #14
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    Noel,
    I was looking at the "The Toolbox Book" by Jim Toplin there is a very detailed chapter on building a coopered top toolbox, might give you some more ideas.

    Cheers Mike

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    Thanks Mike,
    Will source a copy.

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