Thread: Coopered lid jewellery box: WIP

Bummer

Traditionally, the end panel would fit into a groove in the coopered sides of a barrel. Doing the same for your lid would have prevented this although would have resulted in a different look for the box.
Nice video of some coopering here:
Tokaji kádármester 2011 - Hudák István (Donga) - hosszú - http://hudakhordo.hu - YouTube

Originally Posted by hiroller

Traditionally, the end panel would fit into a groove in the coopered sides of a barrel. Doing the same for your lid would have prevented this although would have resulted in a different look for the box.
Nice video of some coopering here:

That works with a full cylinder or barrel, but doing so with this lid would mean gluing the ends into the slots in the lid. This joint would be guaranteed to fail due to differential movement.

Hi,

Yes I agree. Excuse my dodgy drawing but I was thing of something like this.
There would still be allowance for movement but the end grain of the side would be captured.

Yes, that's the way I'm doing it - as per your drawing. It should work, as long as everything's exact. Unfortunately, in the last case, there was a minor inaccuracy.

Good luck with it.
I'm sure it is in safe hands!

That is annoying..

...said Alex (or words to that effect)....

Lucky this is just an internet WIP - in the real world there would be LOTS of little faces pressed up against the windows of Alex's workshop !

Keep the good stuff coming Alex; I've certainly learned a few tricks re. jigs etc. from following this one. Of course, if this was TV, right now you'd be reaching for a fresh part with that well-known phrase "and here's one I prepared earlier"....

Cheers

Originally Posted by AlexS

That works with a full cylinder or barrel, but doing so with this lid would mean gluing the ends into the slots in the lid. This joint would be guaranteed to fail due to differential movement.

Hi Alex

That was unfortunate. The end grain was tricky, in retrospect too weak to attempt. I know - been there and done that.

I built a similar box to yours but avoided the issues you had with a slight difference in the coopered lid and how it attached (in some ways the reverse of yours) ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

OK - I'm waiting to see who is game to join the curved end panels to the coopered lid with a 45 degree mitre on both pieces......no end grain showing anywhere.

Might be possible using a large 45 degree bit in the router table, with the end panel curve taken directly from the outside profile of the coopered lid?

Nice work, Derek. My concern would be that the lid might separate from the end due to differential expansion.

Hi Alex

4 years on and stable.

The inside curve was faired and smoothed, and the side pieces were just glued in. Here are clearer photos ...





Regards from Perth

Derek

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

OK - I'm waiting to see who is game to join the curved end panels to the coopered lid with a 45 degree mitre on both pieces......no end grain showing anywhere.

Might be possible using a large 45 degree bit in the router table, with the end panel curve taken directly from the outside profile of the coopered lid?

I think if you were to attempt that it would be easier to use carving chisels and rasps to make the 45° mitres
at least that's how I understand a proper tombstone detail is done