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  1. #1
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    Default Cremation urn - silver ash & Australian red cedar

    My last project for the year, a cremation urn in silver ash & ARC.

    The marquetry, from a design supplied by the family, uses silver ash, coachwood, camphor laurel, Australian red cedar, jarrah and Tasmanian blackwood.
    Completed 2.jpg

    The finish is Kunos oil over Ubeaut white shellac.
    Completed 4.jpg

    The urn is designed so that the ashes can be placed inside by the family, and the urn sealed by gluing on a small end stop.
    Completed 5.jpg
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  3. #2
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    Nicely done Alex. Is the marquetry an original design?
    Cheers, Bob the labrat

    Measure once and.... the phone rings!

  4. #3
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    No, clip art supplied by the client, Bob
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  5. #4
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    This looks a lot better than the I used to make at work

  6. #5
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    Beautiful box.

    Love the way the grain of the silver ash above the fisherman looks like the sun and clouds. Was this a deliberate choice? Looks great.

    Steven.

  7. #6
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    Thanks folks, glad you like it. I think the client made an excellent choice of timber, and the artwork she sent works well too.
    Quote Originally Posted by spokeshave View Post

    Love the way the grain of the silver ash above the fisherman looks like the sun and clouds. Was this a deliberate choice? Looks great.

    Steven.
    Yes, I'd cut a larger piece of veneer and chose the best part of it.
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  8. #7
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    Nice marquetry. I thought the fisherman was laser engraved until I read your post. Outstanding as always.


    Paul

  9. #8
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    Your finish interests me can you explain how you do it how many coats of shellac and Kunos oil is that instead of wax I have been looking for a new finish to use
    Bob

  10. #9
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    Bob, I hope this helps.

    After sanding to 800 grit, I use a coat of fairly thin shellac as a sanding sealer. Then I resand lightly with 800 & clean with white spirits. I use Kunos cut 50/50 with bio thinners. The first coat is a flood coat, most of which soaks in. After about 15 minutes I wipe off any that hasn't. Leave for 24 hours, and wipe on another coat - a reasonable amount, but not as much as the flood coat. When it starts to tack up (10-20 minutes depending on temp & humidity), buff it off. Next day, apply a coat with 0000 steel wool, and immediately wipe off any excess. after 10-20 minutes, buff it. After that, you can rub in as many very light coats as you like, a day apart, and buff them. On some timbers such as silver ash and Aus. red cedar you can achieve a very high sheen if you wish.

    The old rule when applying oil used to be 'Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year on your birthday.' Probably not necessary with the quality oils we have now, but one lady I made a blanket box for has stuck to this, and I must say it looks pretty good after nearly 10 years.
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  11. #10
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    Aug 2007
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    Thank you Alex I will try on my next project I will be using red cedar and huon pine the end grain is a problem the shellac may solve it

  12. #11
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    White shellac will usually minimise the darkening on end grain that you get with oils.
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  13. #12
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    Great Alex.
    I've got a Christmas present for you, a nice small 30mm thick piece of heavily grained ASC. It's in the carport marked 'Alex', when you are over this way please collect
    Thanks for showing this delicate piece

    Greg

  14. #13
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    Wow, thanks Greg. I'll probably be over in the new year, depending on what timber my next client wants me to use.

    Hope you and Mal & families have a great Christmas, and that the new year brings you all the best.
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