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Thread: Making a curved lid for a box?
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6th October 2014, 10:07 AM #1GOLD MEMBER
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Making a curved lid for a box?
Hello, I have just started looking at various references on how to make a box with a curved lid, as one of my next projects to up my box making skill levels. I am still very much a novice, with each new step in box making being quite nerve wracking as you know one silly little mistake can ruin your work
Here is an extract from one online reference:
Coopering is a method of making a curved panel, similar to the way a barrel is constructed. Having prepared a 12mm- (1/2in) thick board, it must be cut into eight equal-width strips. The strips will be re-joined edge to edge, but first they must be bevelled at an angle of around 88 degrees.
You will need to make a pair of concave formers to hold the strips in position, each strip slightly tilted from its neighbour while the glue sets. The formers must be concave so the strips sit inside the curve and the clamping pressure pushes them together, rather than springing them apart. Pull the mahogany strips together with strap clamps around the formers.With the glue set, the panel will be shaped as a series of straight sections. To turn it into a curve, you must carefully plane away the protruding outside edges of the joints. You can do this with a finely set smoothing plane, tilting the sole with successive strokes so as to fair the surface into a curve. The inside surface of the panel needs to be shaped with a convex soled plane to produce a smooth curve inside the lid.
Can anyone please advise on how to go about this, or whether there is a better method of making a curved lid?regards,
Dengy
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6th October 2014 10:07 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th October 2014, 05:44 PM #2
I use a curved scraper, worked both along and diagonally across the staves. Once you have more or less removed the flats, start with coarse sandpaper on a curved block, again working both along the grain and diagonally.
The other method I've used on fairly tight ones is to wrap a strip of coarse sandpaper from a drum sander around a turned cylinder, and sand the inside of the coopered piece on a lathe. You'll then need to sand along the grain manually, of course.
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6th October 2014, 07:44 PM #3
Hi Dengy
You really need to check out my website first!
Here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...ngaboxlid.html
.. and here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...entCentre.html
This was nearly a barrel ..
This was just a lid ..
.. and doors ..
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
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7th October 2014, 08:28 AM #4
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23rd June 2019, 09:29 AM #5New Member
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Here is how I have made curved tops for jewlry boxes.
https://www.lumberjocks.com/projects/386377
Warren
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24th June 2019, 10:54 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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Hi Joe,
I took a different approach as I wanted a way of repeating the process without having to cooper the lid every time. I built a former by cutting the shape from ply (or MDF), cutting on the bandsaw and finishing on the disc sander
A1ACE671-3E1A-41FC-9AB5-F8AEFE141B6F.jpeg
2CAFB2AF-9F19-40FA-8F81-2B02EA04DF44.jpeg
The pieces were bolted together using threaded rod.
69ACCCE4-35E5-4525-BF46-7A8B12948286.jpeg
Note the photos in this post are from several different projects so I apologise if it seems a bit disjointed.
Once the former was made, I prepared a “sandwich” made from (bottom up) cork tile, waxed paper, inner layer of veneer, two layers of 1.5mm bendy ply from the hobby shop, the top layer of veneer, waxed paper, cork tile. This was placed on top of the former and taped at the ends to stop it sliding around.
it was then put into a cheap Roarockit vacuum bag and the air extracted with the little hand pump.
A234561A-FE3E-4FAA-B6F0-E1F785BEFF00.jpeg
The glue used was Cascamite - an urea formaldehyde glue which sets rock solid - you don’t want any creep with curved tops or they will flatten out. I imagine epoxy would work just as well.
With 2x1.5mm ply plus the 2 veneers the top is a bit over 4mm. This is remarkably strong and rigid once the glue sets.
If you don’t want the bother of the vacuum bag, just make a corresponding former to go over the top and clamp it.
I’ve used this method to make box tops and other things like tea-light candle holders
AE0FF72C-861A-4F2E-832A-D708FA6BC774.jpeg
63BEA19B-7E87-48CB-BA08-8A6829BA24C6.jpeg
Hope this helps, Joe. Looking forward to seeing your next box!
Regards,
Brian
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24th June 2019, 04:17 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
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That brings back some memories Brian. During my apprenticeship i made a number of arched door frames using the same technique with layer after layer of ply and we left the tails extra long so we could nail each layer and then cut it all off when the glue had set.
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24th June 2019, 08:20 PM #8
Hi Joe,
I know this was an old thread that has been revived but felt I should add my option for a curved lid. The box was posted here many years ago. This box was made using the circular saw to cut the concave {underside} cove. The convex top was then drawn parallel for the lid thickness from the cove and surplus material was removed using a bandsaw, The final convex top was linished using a right angle jig on a vertical linisher.
Cbox#7.JPGcbox9.JPGCbox#8.JPGAnd my head I'd be a scratchin'
While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
If I only had a brain.
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24th June 2019, 10:12 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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Crikey! Hadn’t picked up on this being an old thread! Just saw starkw1’s post and assumed the thread was new. Oops!
Brian
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27th June 2019, 02:23 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
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if you are keen, have a look at this:
https://trademe.nz/marketplace/busin...ing/2201766263
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