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  1. #46
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    My brass hardware arrived a few days ago and I set to ageing some of my 5G brass screws, since they sent me some big escutcheon pins, which are not appropriate for the central hole of the hinge. Although WW doesn't share the secret of his ageing recipe, he did suggest that my ageing solution, like many commercial products, makes Florentine brass, which to his eye isn't really typical of antique brass. Well that's roughly what he said, correct me if I'm wrong. So I bought[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Colouring-Bronzing-Patination-Metals/dp/0823007626/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1313301797&sr=1-1"] this book [/ame]to find other recipes. I haven't got around to buying some of the chemicals needed yet, so I played around with some things I had on hand, and I think this result is more satisfactory. It also produced some nice verdigris.
    Attachment 179081Attachment 179082
    Anyway, I fitted the hinges with two screws and six small escutcheon pins, which seems to be the common manner going by photos, and the small brass knob.
    I just have to finish the French polishing and make the deck for my chisels.

    Attachment 179083Attachment 179084Attachment 179085Attachment 179086Attachment 179087
    BILD0003(5).JPGBILD0001(10).JPG
    Last edited by mic-d; 23rd December 2023 at 04:21 PM.

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  3. #47
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    Brass screws aren't correct for the Georgian period. Slotted steel screws are appropriate, but are unfortunately becoming hard to find – especially in the smaller gauges.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  4. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Brass screws aren't correct for the Georgian period. Slotted steel screws are appropriate, but are unfortunately becoming hard to find – especially in the smaller gauges.
    Perhaps a little more poetic license can be excused on top of using machinery and thin veneer. Does the ageing look better at least?

  5. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    Perhaps a little more poetic license can be excused on top of using machinery and thin veneer. Does the ageing look better at least?
    Yes, the colour looks pretty good.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  6. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Brass screws aren't correct for the Georgian period. Slotted steel screws are appropriate, but are unfortunately becoming hard to find – especially in the smaller gauges.
    Especially since I helped(ie. cleaned out) every proper old hardware store in one half of Victoria

    However, 'tis looking nice!

  7. #51
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    It's taken a while to do a few things on the box - polishing the thing and working out the layout of the chisel deck and cutting it out. Here's a few photos of the polish build on the lid - I think it's time to start spiriting off. Also shown is the chisel deck after cutting out with the coping saw and cleaning up with a riffler and after a few coats of shellac.

    BILD0001(11).JPGBILD0004(6).JPG
    Last edited by mic-d; 23rd December 2023 at 07:40 PM.

  8. #52
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    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  9. #53
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    Definitely a work of art and craftmanship this one.
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  10. #54
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    It's with a degree of uncertainty I'm calling this one done. I have to stop somewhere, after all it is just the trial box and I can't keep fussing over it forever!
    I've added all my Japanese chisels, pfeil carving chisels and a few ring-in carving chisels to fill up spaces. Sounds like a good excuse to buy some more pfeils! It's not an ideal box for carving chisels because you can't see the business end, but I think it is fine for the bench chisels. Still room for a few more butt chisels too.
    '
    BILD0002(10).JPGBILD0001(12).JPGBILD0005(5).JPG
    Last edited by mic-d; 23rd December 2023 at 07:39 PM.

  11. #55
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    If you put your box on Groggy's bench, it would start to look like a diningroom in the shed.

    When does work on the real cutlery boxes begin?
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  12. #56
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    Everything in good time WW. It's taken a while granted, but it was the first time I'd used hide glue, the first time I'd used brick block construction, the first time I'd hammer veneered, first time I'd French polished, the first time I'd built a cutlery box. That's a lot of virginity to lose to one box.

    Next one starts tomorrow. Should go faster. Just one box, not two. Supplier had only two pair of hinges so I can't possibly make another two boxes. The cutlery should all fit in one box, that's what I concluded from the trial deck.

    When it comes to banding and inlays, will I be able to come back to it at a later date after the glue has dried or must it be done while the glue under the veneer is fresh?

  13. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    When it comes to banding and inlays, will I be able to come back to it at a later date after the glue has dried or must it be done while the glue under the veneer is fresh?
    If it's simple banding, then I would lay it while the veneer/glue is still workable. If multiple banding/stringing, then it might pay to wait until the glue has turned rubbery.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  14. #58
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    When it comes to doing the banding along edges, I suppose the trick is to leave it long enough so you can use a purfling cutter to trim the veneer back from the edge. Leaving it until the glue is really dry (days or weeks) might mean trouble trying to remove the waste veneer where the banding is to go. Means I better start making some barley twist banding so it is ready to go. Thanks...

  15. #59
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    Very nice trial run!

    Look forward to viewing your next session.

    I note you are storing chisels, is this a good route? I assume the timber is seasoned to around 12% and if in a shed might even go higher? I found here in the UK some of my steel tools will go rusty enclosed as such.
    woody U.K.

    "Common looking people are the best in the world: that is the reason the Lord makes so many of them." ~ Abraham Lincoln

  16. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    When it comes to doing the banding along edges, I suppose the trick is to leave it long enough so you can use a purfling cutter to trim the veneer back from the edge. Leaving it until the glue is really dry (days or weeks) might mean trouble trying to remove the waste veneer where the banding is to go. Means I better start making some barley twist banding so it is ready to go. Thanks...
    If you leave it until the glue is dry, you'll be making it hard for yourself. What's "barley twist banding"?
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

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