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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    91

    Default dealing with chipout on router cut box joints

    Hey guys I thought I would share with you all my recent experiences making some 'secret santa' presents for colleagues at work.

    I am making some small wooden boxes out of 50 year old cedar fence posts. I faced 2 sides on the jointer and then resawn on the table saw with a freud thin kerf blade (I think it is called a glueline blade and I am very impressed with it so far). The box sides, ends top and bottom were selected for the 12 boxes (approx 220 x 120 x 90). The timber did have many cracks that needed gluing up before I christened the new box joint jig based on a 6mm spiral solid carbide bit. The timber, being very dry, has the tendency to chip out a little despite using a backer board and my original idea was to use the linisher to remove the top mm or so but after 1 box took considerable time I had a brain wave.
    I got some 75mm x 35mm timber and jointed all sides and then clamped this to either side of the box and then use a flattening bit in the router table raised to 1.5mm above the table and proceeded to take this off the 4 sides of the box leaving the flattened edge of the side timber un touched. I can't believe how well it did! I did do the joint area first and made sure the router bit was cutting into the side reducing tendency to chip out. It took a matter of 5 mins per box and has removed enough material so that I look like a master joiner rather than a student of the botch it and scarper school.

    Sorry I didn't take any photos but I am sure you get the picture.

    Mike

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
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    Posts
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    Always good when an idea works, even better when it gets passed on to other people who can also use it.
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  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Darkest NSW
    Posts
    3,207

    Default

    There's a similar breakout issue when using Gifkins dovetail jig on router table. I get around this by clamping a scrap "fronter" strip of 3mm MDF across the face of the timber where the bit enters (under the same clamps used to hold the workpiece). Just as the backer built into the Gifkins jig prevents breakout at the back of the board, this "fronter" board prevents chipping on the front face. Simples.

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