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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    2,035

    Default Edging on veneered box

    Hello, I was admiring the picture of a coin box and wondering how the fine black edging is done. Can anyone please advise?

    72208201_10219323855994379_8437195169723318272_o.jpg71889845_10219323854354338_7922964241521311744_n.jpg
    regards,

    Dengy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Auckland New Zealand
    Posts
    176

    Default

    That's definitely a box worth admiring. the black edging is most probably done in a similar fashion than doing any inlay banding. Cut a groove using a router or similar, glue in the inlay/stringing and plane/sand it down to the mating surface.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    567

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    +1 for what Jacques said.

    That’s a box from Dennis Zongker’s book “Wooden Boxes”. If you can find the book in a library it describes the process in detail. It is quite straightforward. In Dennis’ example he’s used a ball-bearing guided rebate bit in the router table, setting the cut for 1/8 by 1/8. I’ve also done this on the table saw by making two shallow cuts, one on the top surface and one on the side. Either way works fine.

    If you use the router method on a veneered box I’d strongly recommend you make a cut along the inside of the line (ruler and scalpel) otherwise if the veneer is at all flaky you might get breakout along the edge. Guess how I know....

    Dennis Z has used ebony stringing here, but most people would use black dyed boxwood stringing. If you are making straight edges that’s about it.

    For this box DZ made the front curved line by gluing together two pieces of 5/64 x 9/64 stringing, then, when the glue has just been applied (only between the two pieces of stringing), clamping it to the curved box edge. Don’t glue the stringing to the box, though. At this stage you are only using the box as a former to get the curved shape correct. Once the glue between the stringing has dried you can remove the length from the box to make the mitres on each end.

    Best regards,

    Brian

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,284

    Default

    Joe,

    This was my effort and very similar but also thicker, an I made a rebated frame box and ten used the router to put a rebate all around for the Wenge. I'm sure it would be the same principle.



    Richard

    068D5FAF-E63A-414C-BC28-2E96FEBC8DA8.jpg


    Here it is with the rebates only.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    78
    Posts
    749

    Default

    Hi Joe,
    I really like the effect you get from stringing all the edges. Fumblers box looks so crisp with the contrasting stringing,
    I have also used it when making boxes from 12mm thick material and you get a similar effect. Here is a large document box I made for a Godson where I used polished brass with box joints on the corners, The brass was inlayed using a high quality marine two part epoxy.
    box4.JPGopen2.JPG
    And my head I'd be a scratchin'
    While my thoughts were busy hatchin'
    If I only had a brain.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central, Michigan, U.S.A.
    Posts
    82

    Default

    Veneered Boxes With a Twist
    Book by Adrian Ferrazzutti is a great DVD that will tell you everthing you need to know on the banding and making the box. I have the DVD and took his class.

    Veneered Boxes with a Twist - FineWoodworking

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