Thread: Filling in time WIP

Nothing but class there Vern. Very nice indeed.

The dark one is absolutely fantastic.

The idea to machine the screw back is clever indeed.


These are highly effective designs. I hope you don't mind, but I've saved the images in my "box" folder

For reference, of course

Originally Posted by Picko

Nothing but class there Vern. Very nice indeed.

Originally Posted by woodPixel

The dark one is absolutely fantastic.

The idea to machine the screw back is clever indeed.


These are highly effective designs. I hope you don't mind, but I've saved the images in my "box" folder

For reference, of course

Thanks for the comments guys - much appreciated Woodpixel, If you'd like I can give you copies of the .jpg files I print out as plans and you can just adjust the dimensions to suit yourself - you don't need to be a Sketchup user that way.

They're both very nice boxes, and I really like the design. I don't think there's anything wrong with the proportions as they are, but as you say, they can be adjusted as desired.

As for machine sanding, I do the last pass on each side at half speed, and also do it in both directions without changing the depth of cut. I then start hand sanding from the same grit as the machine sand. Machine sanding marks are usually going to show up on end grain, so concentrate on getting rid of them there usung your coarsest hand sanding grit.

very nice indeed. and when i am finished with my current project i might tap you for the plans. I have also found that the more coats of finish i put on the more the scuffs became visible, and sometimes only when the 3rd or 4th coat of finish is applied. You can go back and give one last coat using 0000 steelwool going with the grain which should help remove the DS marks. Kunos is my oil of choice, but Homey has put me onto Tru-oil, which im yet to try but hill shortly.

Originally Posted by AlexS

They're both very nice boxes, and I really like the design. I don't think there's anything wrong with the proportions as they are, but as you say, they can be adjusted as desired.

As for machine sanding, I do the last pass on each side at half speed, and also do it in both directions without changing the depth of cut. I then start hand sanding from the same grit as the machine sand. Machine sanding marks are usually going to show up on end grain, so concentrate on getting rid of them there using your coarsest hand sanding grit.

Thanks Alex. I do much the same thing with the last passes through the drum sander but I start at #240 by hand as the oscillating action of my drum sander leaves a much finer finish than the grit on it would imply. Just something about the Milkwood that I cannot for the life of me see imperfections on the surface until it's had a couple of coats of oil - had similar issues with a bowl I made from it once. If it were a dark timber I would look for the lines of lighter coloured dust that indicate a void but the Milkwood doesn't show anything

Originally Posted by Fumbler

very nice indeed. and when i am finished with my current project i might tap you for the plans. I have also found that the more coats of finish i put on the more the scuffs became visible, and sometimes only when the 3rd or 4th coat of finish is applied. You can go back and give one last coat using 0000 steelwool going with the grain which should help remove the DS marks. Kunos is my oil of choice, but Homey has put me onto Tru-oil, which I'm yet to try but will shortly.

I've tried so many finishes I'm pretty much over looking at any others now - the Kunos gives me exactly the look and feel I want within 4 coats and is so easy that I doubt I'll bother trying anything else in future.