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Thread: Gentleman's Box

  1. #1
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    Default Gentleman's Box

    Just completed a box for our family doctor. The body of the box is Surian Cedar (from Zimbo) and the lid panel is Camphor Laurel stump (from Mapleman). The box has been designed to store documents in the base and watches, cufflinks, whatever you like really in the tray. If you look closely at the picture of the tray you should be able to see the finger holds that have been machined into the end panels. Finished size is 260 by 360mm and 160mm high. It's the first time I've installed a key lock and I'm pleased to say that it all went very smoothly. Joints are hand cut dovetails and the mitred lid frame has internal splines. The pictures don't really do the Camphor Laurel justice and the velvet box lining is much more maroon (less purple) than in the pic's. My photographic skills are basic at best.

    I found the Surian Cedar quite challenging to work with. Some pieces were quite wooly and furry. Thanks to rustynail and jack620 for their knowledge and insights into working with the, closely related, Australian Red Cedar. The finish I ended up using is a semi gloss pre-catalyzed clear lacquer from Mohawk. It's the first time I've used a finish like this on wood, I found it easy to work with and the finish excellent. I'll definitely use it again.

    Thanks also to Derek Cohen for posting his Moxon vice build. I've made a few boxes using the vice now and I don't like to think about how much more difficult it would be to hand cut dovetails without it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  3. #2
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    Default

    that lid !

  4. #3
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    Lovely work Dave, those dovetails are just splendid [emoji1303]

  5. #4
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    Lovely Box Dave,
    I’m sure the Dr will be impressed.

    Cheers Matt.

  6. #5
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    Poundy, every time I get out one of the Camphor Laurel stump boards and resaw it I'm blown away. Thanks Chris (MAPLEMAN).

    Thanks Jacques. I'm definitely getting better at them, don't panic every time I take the saw to the wood now. Derek Cohen's tips and WIP's have certainly reduced the number of rookie errors. Having said that though, there's always mistakes to recover from, I reckon that's half the battle.

  7. #6
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    Really nice work!

    I was half expecting a 'gentleman's box' to be cricket related.

  8. #7
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    Very nice box and those dovetails are something to be proud of. Funny how the camera distorts the box as it looks almost square in most of the photos except the 3rd one.
    Is that lacquer a spray on variety?
    What were the special procedures you had to use with the soft furry timbers?
    Dallas

  9. #8
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    Beautiful work, Aldav. Those hand cut dovetails are a masterpiece!

    Brian

  10. #9
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    Dave, that is superior work all round: great design, spectacular wood, and perfectly executed. Can you say something about the interior - flocking?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treecycle View Post
    Is that lacquer a spray on variety?
    What were the special procedures you had to use with the soft furry timbers?
    This is the lacquer I used - Lacquer Nitrocellulose Pre-Catalyzed for Wood (Furniture / Guitars) | eBay - although I see he only has the dead flat and matte available now. The only problem I had with it is the spray can handle I've got wouldn't fit the can due to a slight difference in the shape of the top of the can. The lacquer is very easy to use and I'd happily recommend it to others. I put the job on an old turntable to make things easier. This stuff dries so fast I don't think wet sanding is viable.

    The problem I was having with the cedar is explained in this thread - Finishing Surian Cedar/Australian Red Cedar In the end I wasn't able to get the colour stain I wanted (thanks Bunnings) so I slightly darkened the timber by using some shellac as a further sanding sealer coat. That also helped resolve the fibre shedding problem. If I was starting again I'd use a grain filling sanding sealer under the lacquer with this particular timber.

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    Can you say something about the interior - flocking?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Derek, thanks for the kind comments. All my base linings are done with velvet fabric. Cardboard is cut to 2mm smaller than the base dimensions, this is stuck to a thin foam (about 1mm thick, the white stuff you see used as packaging) with spray glue and the fabric then spray glued to that. The whole unit is just pushed down to the base and is a firm fit. Even though the foam is only thin it's amazing the difference it makes to the feel of the base.

  13. #12
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    Stunning Dave, in all aspects. Love the figure in the lid.

    I like Mohawk products and you can buy them in OZ but check eBay pricing first.

    https://www.multimaster.com.au/asset..._Catalogue.pdf

    I have a price list but they are happy to send you one if you request it.

  14. #13
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    Another alternative is BEHLAN. It is used by luthiers for their electric bodies.

    Dries very fast. Dries rock hard.

    A wooden box is quite a gift for a doctor! After all, they try their best to keep us OUT of them!

  15. #14
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    WoodPixel, I've got a container of that Behlen Buffers Polish. Had it leftover from a guitar I made. Sorta forgot all about it, wonder what its like on pens,...hmmm,.!!

    Buffer's Polish - Behlen - Ardec - Finishing Products

    Paul

  16. #15
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    Nov 2007
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    Victoria
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    Great work Aldav.
    How many coats of finish did you do and how many cans (or how much of 1 can) did you use ? Never seen finish in a can before !
    You boys like Mexico ?

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