Thread: Glasses Case

Hermit that is looking really good, especially since it is hand carved and you only just started. The lid sits very nicely and it all looks sharp. Perhaps you could sand the rear part a bit more where there are some marks.

Before you go staining it, I would practice on some offcuts sanded to the same level as your box and stain the end grain too to see how it takes. With many timbers, end grain will stain darker since the vessels take up more dye. And you will get blotchiness too where the grain runs out and these end grain vessels pop up in the middle of a panel. If you do get blotchiness on the test consider doing a first coat of dilute shellac say 1/2 to 1lb cut (something for you to research there) on it, with perhaps a second coat on end grain. This will partially seal up the vessels and allow a more even uptake of stain. Maybe reconsider the use of Sikkens Cetol HLS as a stain, it is really an exterior decking finish not for interior fine work like this IMHO. But see how you go. Water stains or prooftint stains would be what I'd use in preference, although the prooftint will tend to redissolve the shellac a little bit if you're overly liberal with it, so best to make it up in shellac to apply it rather than put it on neat. It's all a matter of trial and error before committing to the real work. Same with the inlay, I would practice on off cuts before committing to the work DAMHIK, although at the end of the day it is only a piece of wood.
Well done

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

Hermit that is looking really good, especially since it is hand carved and you only just started. The lid sits very nicely and it all looks sharp. Perhaps you could sand the rear part a bit more where there are some marks.

Hi Michael, thanks for the reply and the encouragement.
You're right about the sanding - it's only half-finished. I have another day of shaping first, fine-tuning the lid's fit and making the bottom, then fitting the hinges and magnets, before I finish sanding.

Before you go staining it, I would practice on some offcuts sanded to the same level as your box and stain the end grain too to see how it takes. With many timbers, end grain will stain darker since the vessels take up more dye. And you will get blotchiness too where the grain runs out and these end grain vessels pop up in the middle of a panel. If you do get blotchiness on the test consider doing a first coat of dilute shellac say 1/2 to 1lb cut (something for you to research there) on it, with perhaps a second coat on end grain. This will partially seal up the vessels and allow a more even uptake of stain.

I was concerned about the end-grain going darker, so was planning to use one or two coats of MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner in the same way that you suggest using shellac.

Maybe reconsider the use of Sikkens Cetol HLS as a stain, it is really an exterior decking finish not for interior fine work like this IMHO. But see how you go. Water stains or prooftint stains would be what I'd use in preference, although the prooftint will tend to redissolve the shellac a little bit if you're overly liberal with it, so best to make it up in shellac to apply it rather than put it on neat. It's all a matter of trial and error before committing to the real work. Same with the inlay, I would practice on off cuts before committing to the work DAMHIK, although at the end of the day it is only a piece of wood.
Well done
Cheers
Michael

I agree regarding the Cetol HLS. It was recommended by the local paint specialist when I went to buy stain. I told him it was for interior carvings. Didn't realise until I got home that it was stain plus base-coat/sealer. I thought I could use some of it up on this, but I won't now.

I'll probably leave the inlay for another project when I have a little more experience and a better timber to work with. Balsa is a bit soft and hard to get sharp edges. I considered using MinWax Wood Hardener.

Thanks again for the good advice, Michael. I'm on a steep learning curve, but slowly getting there.

... Steve

I got the bottom cut out today and much of the shaping and sanding done. It's not looking too bad.

Next on the agenda is the hinges and I'm a little nervous to say the least.

The hinges are in the pics below, 1/2" wide x 1/4". (1/2" x 1/2" when fully open.) The aim is to rebate them into the box and the lid, so the lid fits flush. (Of course.)

Does anyone have any tips?
ie Is it better to first fit the hinges to the lid, then the box, or the other way around?

I'm sort of leaning towards cutting the rebates now, in both box and lid, then leaving it until after staining and finishing before attaching them.
Then I was thinking of using 60 sec drying epoxy to allow time to position the lid before the epoxy dries, followed by brass screws after the glue has dried. I figure a bit of masking tape in the rebates should stop (too much) stain and poly corrupting the gluing surface.

Been re-considering the stain plan, too. I wonder how it would look with just a few coats of polyurethane? Do you think it would bring the grain out much, without stain?

Any opinions/suggestions? Anything I've overlooked? I'd hate to stuff this thing up now.

Here's today's pics. The third one shows my planned hinge positions:

After some testing, I decided not to use any stain at all, but since it's pretty featureless, I went ahead with the veneer inlay, while I think some more about the hinges.
Looks like this now:

Looks great. Cut the rebates for the hinges before finishing and put the hinges in after. Although the balsa is soft, you probably don't need to glue the hinges down too, but use the smallest pilot holes you possibly can. I use a little hand drill and bits I bought from Bunnies. You can use a small piece of double sided tape to help position the hinges to mark the rebate. A clear finish would be ok now the inlay is there as a feature.

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

Looks great. Cut the rebates for the hinges before finishing and put the hinges in after. Although the balsa is soft, you probably don't need to glue the hinges down too, but use the smallest pilot holes you possibly can. I use a little hand drill and bits I bought from Bunnies. You can use a small piece of double sided tape to help position the hinges to mark the rebate. A clear finish would be ok now the inlay is there as a feature.

Cheers
Michael

Hi Michael, I was lucky with the inlay - my practice attempt at cutting the recess in scrap didn't turn out quite as well.

Thanks for the hinge tips. I have drill bits down to 0.5mm and a small drill to suit, so that part's easy. An 0.8mm or 1mm should do nicely. My screws are 1/4" '00' countersunk brass. Should do the job, I think. Small brass-plated brads were supplied with the hinges, but I couldn't imagine using them.
Got thin double-sided tape here, too, so I'm good to go. Another test of my scalpel and knife ability.

That looks absolutely fantastic. Great job working with balsa. Would also look great in some other Aussie hardwood (Redgum!!)

Originally Posted by billyt

That looks absolutely fantastic. Great job working with balsa. Would also look great in some other Aussie hardwood (Redgum!!)

Thanks for the kind words, billyt.

I started with balsa because it's cheap and nice and soft for my limited tools, but didn't consider how hard it would be to get sharp edges and a nice finish. It's drinking heaps of poly.
I'm putting on the final coats later today, then the lining and assembly over the next couple of days and it's done. (Felt or suede lining and on the bottom. Gotta check out Spotlight etc to see what I can get.)

I'll be making a few more glasses cases. They're good practice and no-one else seems to be making them.

They would look good in Red Gum. I've got a few other timbers now, so the next one will look nicer without necessarily having to add an inlay.
I have Camphor Laurel, African Zebrano, (Zebrawood), Jarrah, Queensland Maple and PNG Rosewood.

I just snapped a quick pic of the box, mid-finishing:

All done. Made a few errors along the way, but I definitely learned from them. Note the messy magnet fitting in the lid - I put the magnet in upside-down, (with CA glue), and had to dig it out and turn it around.
Overall, it didn't come up too bad for balsa. The next one will be better, made from more exotic, figured timber.
I finished it with 'Howard' 'Citrus Shield' wax. If nothing else it smells great. Should be good on the Zebrawood in my next project. I'm told it stinks like s.
Thanks for the advice along the way Michael and Chris and for the positive comments Billy.

A few snaps:

It's finished up very well Don't know if I like the growth out the back though

Cheers
Michael

Originally Posted by mic-d

It's finished up very well Don't know if I like the growth out the back though

Cheers
Michael

Yeah, that was a bit stupid. Once I carved the horns they had to stay because they dig too deeply into the back, otherwise I would have cut them off.
Also, I'm regretting gluing two pieces (of non-matched timber) together for the main body. Another lesson learned.

The biggest lesson learned was not to sand too heavily between poly coats. I rubbed right through in a few spots and couldn't get the shade even again.

... Steve

I like it. Now all you need to do is not forget to use it.

Originally Posted by Christos

I like it. Now all you need to do is not forget to use it.

Ha. Yeah. Usually they sit on the table, not in a case.

Actually, the case is for my high-magnification glasses for fine work. They aren't used a real lot, so they will stay in the case.

When I started, I had a portable case in mind, to protect glasses while travelling, but that theme got lost along the way.
Maybe another time.

... Steve

Well done, that looks fantastic! Simple and effective, inspiring for another beginner.
I think the balsa was a great choice, the light colouring will look great on a desk. Sure, the more figured timbers will look spectacular but I like how understated this piece is.
Again, well done.