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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
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    1,449

    Default Glue - whatís best

    Team,

    in another thread/post I have been discussing glue creep and my relative success/failures as to getting/not getting this nasty little feature of PVA glue on my adventures. I have to a certain degree been quite lucky when it comes to creep within my box making joints.

    having said that, what type of glue do you all use and have any of you discovered creep in your creations? I predominantly use Titebond II and III.

    thanks

    Richard

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Mooroolbark
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    332

    Default Glue

    Hi Richard,
    when it comes to glueing any timber I'm a Titebond III man myself. I started using it years ago and have never had any problems with it so i haven't changed.

    Cheers,

    Peter

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Blenheim, New Zealand
    Age
    75
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    49

    Default

    Hi Richard,

    It's normally Titebond for me as well - III on dark woods and II on light colours to stop the glue line showing because it sometimes contrasts with the wood.

    Rex

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Central, Michigan, U.S.A.
    Posts
    90

    Default

    I use "Titebond molding and trim" glue and it works on end grain along with very little creep ( I got it from the rep from a demonstration at our wood club) . I see they also have "Titebond no-rum no drip" as well but have never used it?


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    4,096

    Default

    TB2 or 3, to match colour, on every box so far.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    798

    Default

    Hi Richard,

    Mostly TB2 or TB3. Sometimes Sellys Aquadhere. Never had a failure with any of these.

    TB Extend when itís a complex glue-up that needs more open time.

    For a rigid bond laminating curved surfaces (where spring back needs to be restricted) I use Cascamite (urea formaldehyde) or West epoxy. No particular reason for West brand other than itís easy to find and iím used to it.

    Older veneer repairs - hide glue. Since I donít use this a lot I use TB Liquid Hide Glue.

    CA glue is never far from hand (Zap) for those little chip repairs.

    I canít really comment on the issue of wood creep other than to say I avoid wide solid-wood panels by veneering a stable substrate (ply or MDF). If a solid wood box top is required I make it as a floating panel.

    Best regards,

    Brian

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    4,096

    Default

    I'm almost out of TB here (my balcony studio!) and the many bottles I have in storage are a right PITA to get to.....

    A bit easier to order more.

    Do others find Aquadhere decent?


    IF I had to buy some glue from a local supply that isnt TB, what would people recommend?


    edit - Deeerrrrpppp.... turns out Total Tools here sells TB. Nice!

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,336

    Default

    I mostly use Titebond 3. If I have a tricky glue-up I use their liquid hide glue.

    I also use actual hot hide glue. There are some things that this is still the best for the job. For example, rub joints that cannot be easily clamped, veneering.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Campbelltown NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    I'm almost out of TB here (my balcony studio!) and the many bottles I have in storage are a right PITA to get to.....

    A bit easier to order more.

    Do others find Aquadhere decent?


    IF I had to buy some glue from a local supply that isnt TB, what would people recommend?


    edit - Deeerrrrpppp.... turns out Total Tools here sells TB. Nice!
    I get good results with Gorilla Wood Glue from the big green shed.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Varsity Lakes
    Age
    67
    Posts
    2,419

    Default

    I tried Gorilla Wood Glue for my latest bottle of glue and although it looks similar to Titebond II it seems to grab a lot quicker.
    Franklin

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    1,883

    Default

    Selleys aquadhere has always worked for me.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Valla Beach
    Posts
    1,022

    Default

    Same here Rod, and before I got into box making I built every piece of timber furniture throughout my house with it. Never had a problem. I use the "quickset" quite often also when needed to get me out of strife. But the normal indoor one is perfect.

    Paul

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Caroline Springs, VIC
    Posts
    1,637

    Default

    Titebond 3 is by far the worst offender of glue creep. When I speak of glue creep, I speak of glue being pushed up and out of the joint creating ridges between each board, which can be seen and felt. The more flexible the glue, the greater the chance of this occurring. Titebond 3 is very flexible in its cured state, as it has to be flexible to withstand the pressures applied to it when used in exterior work. Titebond Original on the other hand almost snaps like sugar glazing (can't think of a better example), because it doesn't need the added flexibility of TB3 for internal use. Though, TB Original washes off with water even after cured (water/steam = same/same).

    If you think about it like 'Blue-tack', you can stretch out the blue tack, and the colour changes to a lighter blue, almost white. But then if you try to push the two ends of the stretched out rope of blue tack, it doesn't reform to its original shape. The stuff in the middle of the "stretched out rope of blue tack" will belly outwards, or with TB3, push out of the joint creating the ridge lines. If the glue doesn't stretch due to a lack of flexibility, happy days, minimal to zero glue creep. TB2 is better than TB3 for glue creep and I have had few issues with TB2, but TB3 is better for water resistance.

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Bentleigh East
    Age
    47
    Posts
    418

    Default

    I like gorilla wood glue. Sometimes I have to chisel or plane the squeeze out, which dries dark brown and behaves halfway between rubber and stone, if that makes sense? Really hard but with a little bit of flexibility. It works for me and it's also supposed to be water resistant (which I haven't tested). Doubt if it's food safe though, I haven't found any info.

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