Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 25 of 25
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    Joe, Same as what Alex did, here was mine (Link below), just a simple slide lid, but if you make the lid oversized first then sand down gently, you will and can get a snug fit. Spray the irons with machinery spray first, then put Silica gel bags in with it.

    Conductors Baton - plus Box

    Richard

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    Joe,

    heres what ive done so far, it’s 45 mm deep so u can then just put a protector on the slide lid if that’s the way you go. My plane in as reference.

    E635A070-B67B-4CB3-8030-3DCFDE2661D4.jpg 48F214EF-1B5C-482A-90C8-54114BF800F6.jpg 0A067A0F-1601-49F9-85E5-B45B16B3EF3F.jpg D6203998-548B-4BAF-96DE-EF31063448AB.jpg

    Let me know if I should keep going!!

    Richard

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    thanks Richard, well done!! Looks great. Did you build the foam up in layers glues together?

    I think now I will fit it in a box with a hinged lid, rather than in a box with a sliding lid. The Bedrock 605 I have is 60mm wide, so 45mm foam thickness will go well, and allow me to get my fingers in to lift it out.

    What is the best way to cover the white foam ?
    regards,

    Dengy

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,556

    Default

    I will cover with crushed velvet. It’s 2 pieces of 3 or 4 ply foam.

    i can also leave out the section between the handle and the iron if u want gives u easier access to get out.

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    Crikey, this is going to look pretty swish, Richard. Probably a good idea to leave the centre island out, thanks
    regards,

    Dengy

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default

    There's another way of making inserts that may be a bit over the top for a one off, but is good if you're going to make a few the same, or one that's really complicated. I've used it for pen boxes, boxes to contain puzzles and one for a candelabra that I couldn't think of any other way to make. I know this would be easier to explain with pictures, but the system seems to be very slow tonight, so I'll try to put some in tomorrow.
    First, make a negative model of the shape you want the insert to be. Make this the inside bottom of a box. The box needs to be able to have a top screwed or clamped on. Make a top with all the screw holes and do a test fit. This is to ensure that you can get it on an screwed tight quickly. drill a few small holes in the top. these are to relieve pressure inside the box.
    If the shape is not rounded or is deep, you also need to make a positive model of the shape, but with about 1mm play between it and the negative in all directions.
    If you've made both positive & negative models, soak some pigskin suede in water, wring it out and clamp it between the two models for about 12-24 hours. It doesn't need to be completely dry, but it should be fairly stiff when you remove it. Use enough suede to cover the sides of the mould.
    Remove the positive model of the insert and leave the suede fitted over the negative model.
    Now put on your protective gloves
    Here's where the messy fun starts. Inject expanding foam as evenly as you can over the suede and spray some water on it. Don't worry about getting it too even - it will expand and push into any corners. Quickly screw the top on. I've used Sikkens expanding foam, but this should work just as well.
    You will now see the foam expand in the box until, hopefully, it comes out of the pressure relief holes. If it doesn't happen, you haven't put enough foam in, so put some more in through the holes. I've never seen that happen.
    Leave the box sealed up for however long the instructions say the foam takes to set x 2 before removing the insert. You can cut the insert to thickness using a saw or, as I do, an electric bread knife. (don't tell my wife.)
    As I say, you wouldn't use this for every job, but it has its place.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default

    These are the photos that I was going to post the other day.

    This is the candelabra box insert. This one is lined with velvet rather than suede.
    First, make a model of the piece...
    1Base & pattern.jpg

    then attach it to the bottom of the mould box...
    2Pattern in box.jpg

    Insert the foam...
    3Inserting foam.jpg

    and after it's set, remove the insert.
    4After foam set.jpg 6Candlestick in insert.jpg

    The stationery box was done in a similar way, with suede lining.
    Pen mould.jpg

    exp foam.jpg

    Tray with contents.jpg
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    thanks for this, Alex, brought back memories. In the zone substations I used to design and build back in the day, we had 4" holes in the concrete floor for the high voltage cables to come up from the basement to the HV switchgear. We used to use a lot of this yellow expanding foam to seal the hole after the cables were installed, to prevent snakes and vermin getting up into the switchroom. Still had snakes though, they seem to get in anywhere. I never liked walking in the narrow gap between the switchroom wall and the rear of the HV switchgear where the HV cables were terminated, not much escape room in the event of an explosion or a snake.

    If the shape is not rounded or is deep, you also need to make a positive model of the shape, but with about 1mm play between it and the negative in all directions.
    This +ve and -ve model confused me, and what the purpose of them was. The pics didn't explain. Could you help me out there, please Alex? I have to make a display case for a dinosaurs tooth for youngest son, and this seems the way to go
    regards,

    Dengy

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,542

    Default

    Sorry, I should have said male (+) & female(-) models. Wet the suede and push the two moulds together with the suede between them.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    4,236

    Default

    Got it !! Thanks Alex
    regards,

    Dengy

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Hand Scraping a Hand Plane to .0001" Accuracy
    By Ulma Doctor in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 28th February 2015, 06:38 PM
  2. Hand Saw Storage
    By Loco1960 in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11th May 2009, 11:29 PM
  3. Lets Design a Hand Plane
    By thumbsucker in forum HAND TOOLS - UNPOWERED
    Replies: 45
    Last Post: 3rd October 2008, 03:38 PM
  4. PDR Storage/Moving by hand
    By dopeydriver in forum Michael Storer Wooden Boat Plans
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 16th December 2006, 05:29 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •