I have posted this request for help here: Help for challenging small sliding lid box finish

However it was suggested I post the question here as well as it may be something you folks here can advise me on in more project specific terms.
Many thanks in advance


Help for challenging small sliding lid box finish

Hi folks, I've been lurking here for a while and finally decided to take the plunge and join up to try and get some specific help on this issue.
I have been making electronic cigarettes for about three years now and pretty much exclusively from stabilised burl for the last 18 months or so.

Here are some examples of my work:

[IMG]SVengraving b by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_4265SV Mod copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_4275SV Mod copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_4288SV Mod copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]


[IMG]IMG_4454 copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_4456 copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]





After buying a mini mill, bandsaw, etc, making a router table and UV drying cabinet I am pretty much rolling along with small limited runs.
My main issue though is my finishing schedule/system.

Most of the info available on the net to do with wood finishing is either large items like furniture or turned items, and I feel a little lost when trying to find what will consistently work for me.
I have scoured the luthier and gunstock making forums along with here and other woodwork resources.
I have a unique set of challenges with what I make when it comes to a finish.

It needs to be applied in a way that is controllable to avoid build up in the dovetail slots and around the door and other insert panels.
It needs to be compatible with the "Cactus Juice" that is used to stabilize the blanks I use.
It needs to be compatible with some kind of void/crack filling pore filling system.
It needs to be very waterproof, sweat proof and alcohol resistant, as it can have "e liquid" spilled on and in it, and is held in the hand potentially all day.
It needs to be durable, again as it is to be handled all day.
It needs to pop the grain as much as possible.
It needs to involve next to no sanding as sanding risks damaging the intricate recesses and dovetails

Now the images posted are finished with tru oil, but I am yet to really be happy with the finish durability.
I have tried spraying Cabots CPF ans FW Floorseal in cans made up at the local paint shop. I have tried Quick 15, I have tried making up a wipe on poly from the Cabbots floorseal and mineral turps (70%Cabbots 30% turps 2% terebine), I couldn't seem to get anything to work for me, these two below I finished with Aussie Oil after trying all the above finishes and stripping back to wood each time, however I am fearful that even after the 21 days of crosslinking the small amount alcohol in the flavoring of the ejuice will at some point be spilled on the finish and ruin it.

[IMG]IMG_5184-200316 by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

I have researched finishes till I'm dizzy so please help if you can.
Admittedly "some" of the weather we were having during the epic fail of some of the mentioned finishes was rainy and humid, hence the build of the UV drying cabinet (with thermostat and heater and exhaust fan).
Cheers
SV